whereas the gold-embroidered fabrics of India there exhibited retained their lustre unimpaired throughout. If Dr. Forbes Watson, by his labours, in pointing out this fact to our manufacturers, can get them to imitate the truthfulness of the native artizan, he will deserve their warmest thanks, and if he can induce the dyers to send nothing to India that the dhobee can wash out by his rough method of manipulating with stones upon the washboard, India will reap the benefit of European science and skill, which at present she holds at little worth, in this matter at least. The native has found out the way to print fast colours, and Dr. Forbes Watson has been at the trouble of indicating them to our manufacturers; but there are some other people besides the Hindoos who are difficult to move from their old methods of doing things. The machinery of Manchester certainly prints better than the native can do with his rough methods; but even here a certain variety is given by the hand work which in some measure makes it more agreeable to the eye than the monotonous repetition of the same exact form produced by machinery. With the Indian embroideries every lady is well acquainted. The price of labour is so cheap in India, that there is no reason why she may not export a very much larger amount of this kind of work than she does. Lace, again, is work just suited to the patient fingers of the Hindoo women. We understand the fabrication of it has lately been introduced into that country, and it is likely to succeed admirably. But we must come at last to that article of attire which is in every woman's thoughts the Cashmere shawl. We are told that, in consequence of a famine which occurred in Cashmere, a great number of so-called Cashmere shawls are now made within our own territory. The report of the Lahore Central Committee for the last International Exhibition, states, that with respect to shawl manufacture, "This is now by far the most important manufacture in the Punjab; but thirty years ago it was almost entirely confined to Cashmere. At the period alluded to, a terrible famine visited Cashmere, and in consequence numbers of the shawl weavers emigrated to the Punjab, and settled in Umrit sur, Nurpur, Dinangar, Tilaknath, Jelalpur, and Loodianah, in all of which places the manufacture continues to flourish. The best shawls of Punjab manufacture are manufactured in Umritsur, which is also an emporium of the shawl trade. But (and we must entreat the attention of the ladies to what follows) none of the shawls made in the Punjab can compete with the best shawls made in Cashmere itself; first, because the Punjab manufacturers are unable to obtain the finest species of wool, and secondly, by reason of the inferiority of the dyeing, the excellence of which in Cashmere is attributed to some chemical peculiarity in the water. The wool, on which the purity of the shawl depends, is from the domestic goat of Thibet, whence it is exported, via Yarkanal, to Cashmere. The wool is called pashum, and is the fine growth that lies under the hair and close to the skin. Many animals in cold countries have a similar kind of wool underneath the hair. The camel, the yak, and the shepherd's dog also have this winter under-clothing, which they cast off in the summer; but in neither of these animals is it so fine or of such good colour for dyeing purposes as that of the shawl goat. The Cashmere emigrants, not being able to obtain the true wool, use the best they can get in place of it, and the result is, that European firms have lately been complaining of the adulterations of the texture of the Cashmere We shawls. This is done by mixing up Kirmanhee wool with real pashum. It is now sought to provide against this falsification by forming a guild of trades in these shawls, which shall have the power of affixing on all genuine shawls a trade-mark guaranteeing it to be genuiue pashum, and fixing a heavy penalty on all counterfeits." trust our statement has not rendered any lady suspicious of the integrity of her Cashmere; but we confess that when we hear of the price even at the place of their manufacture of the genuine article, we look with some suspicion on the so-called Cashmeres that we sometimes see in the windows of the London dealers in them. We are told that "a woven shawl of the best materials, and weighing seven pounds, will cost in Cashmere as much as 300l. Of this amount the cost of the materials, including thread, is 301.; the wages of labour, 100l.; miscellaneous expenses, 50%.; duty, 501." If we add to this the cost of carriage to England and insurance, it will be clear that very few will be able to afford such costly garments, even in this country of nobles and merchant princes. The Cashmere shawl is really a warm garment, but what keeps out the cold also keeps out the heat. There are plenty of warm fabrics made in the northern parts of India, and many of the woolen garments are very much like our Scotch plaids, even to E 4 the pattern. It must refresh the eye of the Highlander to see in these far distant lands garments that remind him of his home, and it shows that, under like conditions, the results of human labour are wonderfully similar. We cannot conclude this article more appropriately than by recommending the manufacturers who would aspire to feed the almost limitless market of India, to visit the Indian Museum, Whitehall, where he will find a most curious collection of fabrics collected with great care by the government from all parts of India, and where he may learn all the details he requires from Dr. Forbes Watson, who has made the subject of the textile manufactures of the people in India his study, and by his writings has done good work in bringing the customers of both countries in contact with each other to their mutual advantage and enrichment. A. W. From the Spectator. THE COUNTESS DE BOIGNE. † THIS book is a curiosity in its authorship and in itself. The writer of it, the Comtesse de Boigne, has left the mark of all her own peculiarities in the characters, the incidents, and the sentiments of her romance, and the best introduction to it will be a sketch of her curious career. Eléonore Adèle Osmond (such was her miden name) was born in 1780, and died, aged eighty-six, last year at Paris. Her father, the Marquis d'Osmond, was the eldest of three brothers, all illustrious in the pre-revolutionary time. The Marquis himself was born at St. Domingo, served his country from an early age till the year 1788, when he was named Ambassador at the Hague. He married an English young lady, Miss Dillon, of small fortune, and he himself was poorly endowed. His lady very soon after their marriage was appointed one of the dames attendantes on Mesdames Adelaide and Victoire, daughters of Louis XV. They became much attached to the Marquis, his wife, and young daughter, Adèle, and as the child grew up she was constantly either at Belle Vue or Versailles. She was a remarkably lovely child, and becoming the pet of Marie Antoinette, she was almost always with the "The Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the People of India," by J. Forbes Watson, M. D. Printed for the Indian Office, 1867. Une Passion dans le Grand Monde. Par Eléonore Adèle Osmond, Comtesse de Boigne. 2 tomes. Paris: Lévy. 1867. first Dauphin, whose precarious health led his physicians to place him at Meudon; and thus, Mesdames inhabiting Bellevue, and Adèle being with them every day, she was the perpetual playfellow and amuser of the poor Royal child. She never ceased to repeat the stories of her young time, and to tell curious details respecting Louis XVI. and his Queen. It seemed to her always in after years as if those days were dreams. She could hardly believe in the harsh contrasts so soon to follow. The father of Adèle in 1791 was named Ambassador to St. Petersburg, but one event following quickly after another allowed him no opportunity of performing the duties of that office, and he assisted Mesdames to emigrate to Italy, whither Madame d'Osmond and her son and daughters accompanied them. There an asylum for these unfortunate daughters of Royalty was prepared by the generous care of Pius VI.; but although the Marquis soon followed, deserting, like so many of his order, the fallen King and Queen, he would not remain, nor allow his wife and family to remain, chargeable on Mesdames. To Naples therefore they went, and there again Adèle was under the special patronage of a Queen, for Caroline, the sister of Marie Antoinette, undertook all the expenses of her education, settling a pension of 12,000 livres on the Marquis for that purpose, but stipulating that it was to cease when the education was completed. So it was that our future Comtesse de Boigne became the friend and companion of the excellent Marie Amélie, late ex-Queen of the French. They did not, however, remain more than ten months at Naples. The Marchioness had her own English family to visit, and in England they had their home for a considerable time, at any rate till Adèle was seventeen years of age, and had come to the end of her education and of the Naples pension. She must have been a young lady of some nerve and not a little cleverness. How far the love of her parents, always, we think, particularly strong among French girls, was her all-pervading motive for the conduct which followed, and which cannot but be in English eyes most repugnant to every feeling of delicacy, must remain unknown. But the fact is that she was addressed by a military servant of the East India Company, an old man just returned from India with immense riches, how reputably acquired no one knew, with shattered health, and with all the characteristics of a soldier and a nabob. Smitten by Adèle's beauty, he warm ly pressed his suit. She, contrary to all Marquis d'Osmond and his party with the people of the First Empire. When the Bourbons returned they were gladly welcomed, and honours were bestowed by the returned Royalties upon them; M. d'Os mond being made a Peer of France, and sent to London as Ambassador, in 1815. Whatever her political tendencies might be, however, Madame de Boigne at least was not blind to the defects of the Bourbons. She saw the faults of all parties, and in the letters which most evidently represent her sentiments, though put into the mouths of fictitious persons, there is sometimes an expression of bitter disappointment. She accompanied her father to England, and remained till he resigned his appointment. He died in 1838, at a very advanced age. Madame Lenormand hints at the Countess being severely mortified at his never having obtained the Cordon Bleu. Whether from discontent with the elder Bourbons, or a revival of the old attachment to the daughters of Caroline of Naples, it is certain that nearly all Madame de Boigne's intercourse was gradually centred upon the Orleans family. She had become a woman of considerable political influence. With Comte Pozzo di Borgo her counsels and opinion carried weight, and it is said that she had much to do with procuring the neutrality of the Russian Government after the Revolution of July. Of course this impression had a tendency to sever her from many of the heretofore intimates of her salon, and she felt their secession very keenly, for at heart she was certainly a Legitimist, and besides that had strong affections; but we suppose she was consoled by the society of the many distinguished persons who formed the new Government, and flocked to her abole. Among these, perhaps, the chief was the Chancelier Pasquier. This able man only withdrew from public affairs in 1848, but then, though deaf and almost blind, the powers of his mind remained unimpaired, and he lived on, clear-headed, brisk in temper, but easily mollified, to the age of ninety-seven, to the last regarding the Countess, and justly, as his most attached friend. And that death created a void indeed for Madame de Boigne. People grieved for her; all knew how strong were her sympathies. It was seen that, though she might very fairshe was exclusive in her affections. As to ly be called a "femme de mille côtes," yet her tastes, they were perfectly feminine; passionately fond of flowers, never being without them in her rooms; skilful in needlework, ber tapestry always in her hands, There was little sympathy between the and in her eighty-sixth year using no The probability is that all her talent, all her high cultivation, were thrown away on such a man, and, as Madame Lenormand, who writes the introductory narrative, says, "Une semblable union ne pouvait pas être, et ne fut pas, heureuse." Whether she behaved ill to him or he to her we are not told, but at the end of six years he bought her a château (Beauregard), took her there, waited till her father and mother joined her, and then made his bow, and went himself to live at his own native town of Chambéry. He provided, at any rate, magnificently for her and hers. Respecting his own tastes and habits we are not to be too curious, but it ought to be mentioned to his credit that his munificence was largely exercised in Chambéry, and also that he retained per fectly amicable relations with his lady, who spent some weeks of every year so long as he lived with him, and always spoke of him with respect. Of the date of his death we are not informed. At the beginning of the First Empire, Madame de Boigne might be found established at Paris, and her salon was frequented by most of the celebrities of the day; by Madame de Staël, by the Montmorencies, and by Madame Recamier. Some beautiful remarks on the character of the latter are surely, even after all we have read of her, worth looking at: Plenty of pictures of Madame Recamier," she says, "have been given, and yet none, according to my ideas, have rendered the exact traits of her character; this is the more excusalle, because she was so mobile. Everybody has chaunted the praises of her incomparable beauty, her active beneficence, her sweet urbanity. Many even have spoken of her wit, but few have penetrated through the habitual charm of her manner to the real nobility of her heart, her independence, the impartiality of her judg ment, the justness of her spirit. I have some times seen her overruled, but never, I think, merely influenced." spectacles. In other respects, however, she was very infirm. She could not walk halfa-dozen steps, and was carried into the garden or to her carriage, from her sleeping room to the salon, or from the salon to the salle-à-manger. Nor was she ever brought in till her guests were assembled. Then, what would be the surprise of a stranger to see this wrapped-up figure carried between two valets, casting off her envelopes, placed at the table, and entering into the liveliest conversations, as if but thirty years of age! Nothing could surpass the charm of the surprise. Then it should be added that she had preserved all her teeth, her beautiful hair, her pretty features, and when conversation took an animated turn, a ray of the old youthful grace lighted up her countenance. It is right to add, that though early nourished in a sceptical school, and for many years, if not adverse, yet very indifferent to religion, Madame de Boigne turned with far greater interest to the momentous subject long before death, long before she had experienced any serious warnings of her bodily frailty. Her only brother died some years before her, but with her characteristic passion for the parental name she bequeathed all her wealth to the only being belonging to her who bore the Dame of Osmond. but unfortunately Madame de Romignère (this self-drawn character) dies before the close of the first volume, and we have to wade through a long history of a needless quarrel between adoring lovers, an unloving marriage consequent upon the quarrel, an explanation coming too late, and giving rise to some struggles of passion and duty, and finally to get rid of the whole combat by death. In different parts of the book we have some shrewd political remarks. The hero, Romuald, and his friend interchange ideas on the state of France after the Russian campaign; also during the Hundred Days, and again in the Bourbon period. They cannot suppress, spite of their instincts for Legitimacy, their disappointment with the returned family. In December, 1816, we have an account of Romuald's reception at Court by Louis XVIII., and not a little of sarcasm is displayed. At first, the hero, a distinguished military Bonapartist officer, is flattered by the King's intimate knowledge of his antecedents. Louis goes back as far as 1806, and refers to the mention of Romuald's name in the bulletin of an affair at Czarnovo, which, as it chanced, occurred on the very anniversary day of his presentation. Astonished, Romuald tells his uncle, who had been at the levée with him, how Now, to all those who had heard her con- wonderfully kind the King must be to inverse, to all especially who knew her famili- form himself so minutely respecting the arity with various celebrated characters and affairs of an insignificant person. His uncle scenes, it was a matter of great curiosity to laughs heartily, and answers, "Don't fancy know what writings this aged woman had that he dreamt of giving you pleasure; he left, for that she did write was well known. only wanted to show off his marvellous Memoirs were hinted at, and the surprise memory before a new comer; we old courwas considerable when it was found that she tiers are a little tired of the charlatanerie of had written two romances, of which the dates and anniversaries," &c. (Vol. I., p. present is one. She had, however, much 203). Our hero is compelled thus to go imagination, and more sentiment. She back to his first impression of the King. liked to draw a set of characters, her own "I don't like his countenance; it is hard among the rest, to put them in situations when he is serious-false when he smiles." such as she had known; she thought she A few days afterwards he goes to visit could do more substantial justice both to her Monsieur, the future Charles X., and the own ideas and to private and public senti- Duchesse d'Angoulême. The former welments by working them up thus. Undoubt comes him cordially, and here he is inclined edly some of her pictures are well given, to be pleased, but he is asked, whether he but the romance, Une Passion dans le has ever been in Germany? an 'embarGrand Monde, take it as a whole, is not rassing question to a Bonapartist. He reonly very tedious, but has many of the old- plies honestly, however, " Oui, Monseigfashioned theories of love and honour which, neur, plusieurs fois," and there is an end of as theories, carefully and deliberately set the interview. Here Romuald fancies that forth, are sure to repel modern readers. the assumed ignorance of his previous hisThe form adopted, too, that of letters, is tory was a piece of generous feigning, but wearisome and diffuse. It is a Sir Charles the undeceivable uncle again smiles, and tells Grandison minus the wit. The old lady's him he is a novice, it is no such thing. character, meant, no doubt, as the embodi- Then they go to the Duchesse d'Angoulême. inent of Madame de Boigne's own peculiari- It is plain that there, at least, is no trickery, ties, is the cleverest and most interesting, but it is still disappointing. Who would 720 PHYSIOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF THE SUN AND MOON. not have felt emotion at first seeing the daughter of the martyred King? "My uncle having introduced me," writes Romuald, "I obtained a very cold inclination of the head, and a 'You have been but a short time in Paris,' which looked to me a little reproachful. Then addressing herself to my uncle, she said, exactly in the same tone, 'Hombert [his youngest son] was of the escort yesterday; he kept too near the wheels; he did not show his common sense. I told him so, but you must repeat to him that he must not let it happen again.' The substance of what she said was quite right and kind; but it was the manner, so little gracious, that I felt deeply saddened. By what fatality is it that a Princess, to whom all hearts would be open, has learnt to chill every one? I went out of the Tuileries ill satisfied, but above all, vexed to have found this illustrious woman, whose misfortunes and virtues had so often occupied my mind, different from all I had anticipated." From the Spectator. all the curious influences attributed to sun and moon, whether as light-giving bodies or otherwise, if he had intended only to deal with light. He has not even taken sufficient pains to isolate the influence of the light they give, so as to distinguish it from that which may be attributed to free air and complete ventilation. Hence, though his essay is full of curious anecdotes, it leaves no distinct scientific impression at all, except of course that solar light, unpolarized light, is an agency of the greatest importance to health, and produces a peculiar influence on the blood, the absence of which subjects the patient to what is called the anæmic disease, or pale instead of red blood-cells. In fact, the only two statements which seem to isolate with any precision the influence of light on health from the influence of other and more general causes are these: "The absence of light exercises a very great THE PHYSIOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF THE influence over the power possessed by food in SUN AND MOON. In a recent work of some interest but little method, Dr. Forbes Winslow has given us some account of a very curious subject, professedly the physiological influence of light upon the body. He has, however, mixed up with this discussion many things which belong to the larger subject with which we have headed this article, - i.e., all sorts of influences attributed, truly or untruly, to bodies which, among some of their properties, radiate or reflect light. For example, a great section of his essay is occupied with considering the effect attributed to the moon on the atmospheric tides, and through those on the health of man. Now, we suppose it is obvious that the effect of the moon on the atmospheric tides bas nothing to do with its reflection of light. That is the result of its gravity, and its gravity would be the same even if it were a wholly dark body of the same mass. Dr. Forbes Winslow need scarcely have given us a digest of On the Influence of Light on Life and Health. By Forbes Winslow, M.D. London: Longmans. increasing the size of animals. Whatever From a Paper on the Scientific Principles involved in the Feeding and Fattening of Stock,' read by Ed. W. Davey, M.B.M. R.I., at the Roy. Dub. Soc., April 14, 1859." And in the first of these passages it can scarcely be said with certainty that light alone made the difference, as every one knows that the warmth of rooms with a northern aspect is apt to be very different from that of rooms with the opposite aspect; |