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CHAP. II.

RUINS OF NIMROUD.

21

Whilst at Mosul, Mormous, an Arab of the tribe of Haddedeen, informed me that figures had been accidentally uncovered in a mound near the village of Tel Kef. As he offered to take me to the place, we rode out together; but he only pointed out the site of an old quarry, with a few rudely hewn stones. Such disappointments were daily occurring; and I wearied myself in scouring the country to see remains which had been most minutely described to me as sculptures, or slabs covered with writing, and which generally proved to be the ruin of some modern building, or an early tombstone inscribed with Arabic characters.

The mounds, which I directed to be opened, were those of Baasheikha (of considerable size), Baazani, Karamles, Karakush, Yara, and Jerraiyah. Connected with the latter ruin many strange tales were current in the country. It was said that on its lofty conical mound formerly stood a temple of black stone, held in great reverence by the Yezidis, or worshippers of the devil; its walls covered with all manner of sculptured figures, and with inscriptions in an unknown language. When the Bey of Rowandiz fell upon the Yezidis, and massacred those who were unable to escape, he destroyed this house of idols; but the ruins of the building, it was declared, had only been covered by a small accumulation of rubbish. The lower part of an Assyrian figure, in relief on basalt, dug up, it was said, in the mound, was actually brought to me; but I had afterwards reason to suspect that it was discovered at Khorsabad. Excavations were carried on for some time at Jerraiyah, but no remains of the Yezidi temple were brought to light.

Having finished my arrangements in Mosul, I returned to Nimroud on the 19th. During my absence, my Cawass had carried the excavations along the back of a wall, in the S.W. corner of the mound*, and had discovered an entrance or doorway. Being anxious to make as much progress as possible, I increased my workmen to thirty, and distributed them in † Entrance d, same planı.

* Wall e, plan 1.

[graphic]

three parties. By opening long trenches at rig various directions, we came upon the top of a w slabs with inscriptions similar to those already des however, was reversed, and was covered with ch ceeding in size any I had yet seen. On exami scription carefully, I found that it corresponded the chamber in the N. W. corner; but as the e as well as of all the other slabs hitherto disco S. W. ruins, had been cut away to make the s the wall, several letters had been destroyed. Fro it was evident that materials taken from another been used in the construction of the one we were ing; but as yet it could not be ascertained whe or the back of the slabs had been uncovered; fo plan of the edifice could not be determined unti rubbish and earth under which it was buried had b The excavations were now carried on but slowl mixed with sun-dried and baked bricks, pottery, a of alabaster, offered considerable resistance to the workmen ; and when loosened, could only be remo to be thrown over the edge of the mound. The Ch the mountains, strong and hardy men, could alo pick; the Arabs were employed in carrying awa Spades could not be used, and there were no other those I had adopted, to clear away the rubbish fro A person standing on the mound could see n building until he approached the edge of the t which the workmen descended by steps, where walls were exposed to view.

The Abou-Salman and Tai Arabs continuing th tions in the plains of Nimroud and surroundin deemed it prudent to remove from Naifa, where I resided, to Selamiyah. This village is built on a near the Tigris, and was formerly a place of some

* Wall m, same plan.

being mentioned at a very early period as a market town by the Arab geographers, who generally connect it with the ruins. of Athur or Nimroud. It occupies an ancient site, and in long lines of mounds, enclosing the village, can be traced the walls of an Assyrian town, or more probably of one of the suburbs of the capital. Even five years ago Selamiyah was a flourishing place, and could furnish 150 well-armed horsemen. The Pasha had, however, plundered it; and the inhabitants had fled to the mountains or into the neighbouring province of Baghdad. Ten miserable huts now stood in the midst of ruins of bazaars and streets surrounding a kasr or palace, belonging to the old hereditary Pashas of Mosul, well built of alabaster, but rapidly falling into decay. I had intended to take possession of this building, which was occupied by a few Hytas or irregular troops; but the rooms were in such a dilapidated condition that the low mud hut of the Kiayah, or chief of the village, appeared to be both safer and warmer. I accordingly spread my carpet in one of its corners, and giving the owner a few piastres to finish other dwelling-places which he had commenced, established myself for the winter. The premises, which were speedily completed, consisted of four hovels, surrounded by a mud wall, and roofed with reeds and boughs of trees. I occupied half of the largest habitation, the other half being appropriated for beasts of the plough, and various domestic animals. We were separated by a wall; in which, however, numerous apertures served as a means of communication. These I studiously endeavored for some time to block up. A second hut was devoted to the wives, children, and poultry of my host; a third served as kitchen and servants' hall: the fourth was converted into a stall for my horses. In the enclosure formed by the buildings and outer wall, the few sheep and goats which had escaped the rapacity of the Pasha, congregated during the night, and kept up a continual bleating and coughing until they were milked and turned out to pasture at day-break.

The roofs not being constructed to exclude the winter rains

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