France.

palace-Alexander, in porphyry: hollow between eyes Tour in and nose, thin cheeks-Plato and Aristotle-Noble terrace overlooks the town. St. Cloud-Gallery not very high, nor grand, but pleasing-In the rooms, Michael Angelo, drawn by himself, Sir Thomas More, Des Cartes, Bochart, Naudæus, Mazarine-Gilded wainscot, so common that it is not minded-Gough and Keene-Hooke came to us at the inn--A message from Drumgould.

66

Friday, 27th October.—I staid at home-Gough and Keene, and Mrs. S's1 friend dined with us -This day we began to have a fire-The weather is grown very cold, and, I fear, has a bad effect upon my breath, which has grown much more free and easy in this country.

66

Saturday, 28th October.-I visited the Grand Chartreux, built by St. Louis-It is built for forty, but contains only twenty-four, and will not maintain more-The friar that spoke to us had a pretty apartment-Mr. Baretti says four rooms; I remember but three-His books seemed to be French-His garden was neat; he gave me grapes-We saw the Place de Victoire, with the statues of the king, and the captive nations.

"We saw the palace and gardens of Luxembourg, but the gallery was shut-We climbed to the top stairs I dined with Colebrooke 3, who had much com

[Mrs Strickland, the sister of Mr. Charles Townley, who happened to meet the party at Dieppe, and accompanied them to Paris. She introduced them to Madame du Bocage.-Reynolds's Recollections.-ED.]

2 [There was in France but one Grand Chartreux, the monastery near Grenoble, founded by St. Bruno, to the 13th prior of which St. Louis applied for an off-set of the order to be established in Paris, where he placed them in his chateau de Vauvert, which stood in the Rue d'Enfer. The good people of Paris believed that the chateau of Vauvert, before St. Louis had fixed the Carthusians there, was haunted, and thence the street was called Rue d'Enfer.ED.]

3 [Sir George Colebrooke: see ante, v. ii. p. 95.—Ed.]

France.

Tour in pany-Foote, Sir George Rodney', Motteux, Udson, Taaf-Called on the prior, and found him in bed.

"Hotel-a guinea a day-Coach, three guineas a week---Valet de place, three l. a day-Avantcoureur2, a guinea a week-Ordinary dinner, six 1. a headOur ordinary seems to be about five guineas a day— Our extraordinary expenses, as diversions, gratuities, clothes, I cannot reckon-Our travelling is ten guineas a day.

"White stockings, 181.3 Wig-Hat.

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Sunday, 29th October.-We saw the boardingschool-The Enfans trouvés-A room with about eighty-six children in cradles, as sweet as a parlour— They lose a third; take in to perhaps more than seven [years old]; put them to trades; pin to them the papers sent with them-Want nurses-Saw their chapel.

"Went to St. Eustatia; saw an innumerable company of girls catechised, in many bodies, perhaps 100 to a catechist-Boys taught at one time, girls at another-The sermon: the preacher wears a cap, which he takes off at the name-his action uniform, not very violent.

66

Monday, 30th October.-We saw the library of St. Germain —A very noble collection-Codex Di

5

[The celebrated Admiral, afterwards Lord Rodney: he was residing abroad on account of pecuniary embarrassments, and, on the breaking out of the war in 1778, the Marshal Duc de Biron generously offered him a loan of a thousand louis d'ors, to enable him to return to take his part in the service of his country. See a letter of the Baron D'Holbach to Miss Wilkes, in Wilkes' Correspondence, vol. iv. p. 270.-ED.]

2 [There is a slight mistake here. Princes, ambassadors, marshals, and a few of the higher nobility, had coureurs, that is, running footmen. The word avant-coureur was commonly used in a moral sense. Johnson, no doubt, meant a courier who rode post.-ED.]

3 i. e. 18 livres.

-MALONE.

Two pair of white silk stockings were probably purchased.

4 [No doubt an error for Eustatius. He means the well-known parish church of St. Eustache.-ED.]

5 [St. Germain des Près, the too celebrated abbaye. Its library was saidafter the king's library in Paris, and that of the Vatican-to be the richest in Europe in manuscripts.-ED.]

France.

vinorum Officiorum, 1459-a letter, square like that Tour in of the Offices, perhaps the same-The Codex, by Fust and Gernsheym-Meursius, 12 v. fol.-Amadis, in French, 3 vol. fol.-CATHOLICON sine colophone, but of 1460-Two other editions', one by Augustin. de Civitate Dei, without name, date, or place, but of Fust's square letter as it seems.

"I dined with Col. Drumgould; had a pleasing afternoon.

"Some of the books of St. Germain's stand in presses from the wall, like those at Oxford.

"Tuesday, 31st October.-I lived at the Benedictines; meagre day; soup meagre, herrings, eels, both with sauce; fried fish; lentils, tasteless in themselves-In the library; where I found Maffeus's de Historia Indicá: Promontorium flectere, to double the Cape-I parted very tenderly from the prior and Friar Wilkes.

"Maitre des Arts, 2 y.-Bacc. Theol. 3 y.— Licentiate, 2 y.-Doctor Th. 2 y. in all 9 yearsFor the Doctorate three disputations, Major, Minor, Sorbonica-Several colleges suppressed, and transferred to that which was the Jesuit's College.

66

Wednesday, 1st November.-We left ParisSt. Denis, a large town: the church not very large, but the middle aisle is very lofty and awful-On the left are chapels built beyond the line of the wall, which destroyed the symmetry of the sides-The organ is higher above the pavement than I have ever seenThe gates are of brass-On the middle gate is the history of our Lord-The painted windows are hi

1 I have looked in vain into De Bure, Meerman, Mattaire, and other typographical books, for the two editions of the "Catholicon," which Dr. Johnson mentions here, with names which I cannot make out. I read "one by Latinius, one by Boedinus." I have deposited the original MS. in the British Museum, where the curious may see it. My grateful acknowledgements are due to Mr. Planta for the trouble he was pleased to take in aiding my researches.-Bos

WELL.

France.

Tour in storical, and said to be eminently beautiful-We were at another church belonging to a convent, of which the portal is a dome; we could not enter further, and it was almost dark.

66

Thursday, 2d November.-We came this day to Chantilly, a seat belonging to the Prince of CondéThis place is eminently beautified by all varieties of waters starting up in fountains, falling in cascades, running in streams, and spread in lakes-The water seems to be too near the house-All this water is brought from a source or river three leagues off, by an artificial canal, which for one league is carried under ground-The house is magnificent-The cabinet seems well stocked; what I remember was, the jaws of a hippopotamus, and a young hippopotamus preserved, which, however, is so small, that I doubt its reality-It seems too hairy for an abortion, and too small for a mature birth-Nothing was [preserved] in spirits; all was dry-The dog; the deer; the ant-bear with long snout-The toucan, long broad beak-The stables were of very great length-The kennel had no scents-There was a mockery of a village--The menagerie had few animals 1-Two faussans, or Brasilian weasels, spotted, very wild-There is a forest, and, I think, a park—I walked till I was very weary, and next morning felt my feet battered, and with pains in the toes.

1

"Friday, 3d November.- We came to Compeigne, a very large town, with a royal palace built round a

1 The writing is so bad here, that the names of several of the animals could not be deciphered without much more acquaintance with natural history than I possess. Dr. Blagden, with his usual politeness, most obligingly examined the MS. To that gentleman, and to Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, who also very readily assisted me, I beg leave to express my best thanks.-BOSWELL.

2 It is thus written by Johnson, from the French pronunciation of fossane. It should be observed, that the person who showed this menagerie was mistaken in supposing the fossane and the Brasilian weasel to be the same, the fossane being a different animal, and a native of Madagascar. I find them, however, upon one plate in Pennant's "Synopsis of Quadrupeds."-Boswell.

France.

pentagonal court-The court is raised upon vaults, Tour in and has, I suppose, an entry on one side by a gentle rise-Talk of painting-The church is not very large, but very elegant and splendid-I had at first great difficulty to walk, but motion grew continually easier -At night we came to Noyon, an episcopal city— The cathedral is very beautiful, the pillars alternately Gothick and Corinthian-We entered a very noble parochial church-Noyon is walled, and is said to be three miles round.

"Saturday, 4th November.-We rose very early, and came through St. Quintin to Cambray, not long after three-We went to an English nunnery, to give a letter to Father Welch, the confessor, who came to visit us in the evening.

Sunday, 5th November.-We saw the CathedralIt is very beautiful, with chapels on each side-The choir splendid-The balustrade in one part brassThe Neff very high and grand-The altar silver as far as it is seen-The vestments very splendid-At the Benedictines' church"

Here his Journal' ends abruptly. Whether he wrote any more after this time, I know not; but probably not much, as he arrived in England about the 12th of November. These short notes of his tour, though they may seem minute taken singly, make together a considerable mass of information, and exhibit such an ardour of inquiry and acuteness of examination, as, I believe, are found in but few travellers, especially at an advanced age. They completely refute the idle notion which has been propagated, that

My worthy and ingenious friend, Mr. Andrew Lumisden, by his accurate acquaintance with France, enabled me to make out many proper names which Dr. Johnson had written indistinctly, and sometimes spelt erroneously.-Bos

WELL.