Wales. Tour to never had a garden-The addition of another story would make an useful house, but it cannot be greatSome buildings which Clough, the founder, intended for warehouses, would make store-chambers and servants' rooms ---The ground seems to be good – I wish it well. Sunday, 31st July.-We went to church at St. Asaph-The cathedral, though not large, has something of dignity and grandeur-The cross aisle is very short-It has scarcely any monuments-The quire has, I think, thirty-two stalls of antique workmanship-On the backs were Canonicus, Prebend, Cancellarius, Thesaurarius, Præcentor---The constitution I do not know, but it has all the usual titles and dignities-The service was sung only in the Psalms and Hymns-The bishop was very civil 1— We went to his palace, which is but mean-They have a library, and design a room-There lived Lloyd and Dodwell 2. Monday, 1st August.-We visited Denbigh, and the remains of its castle-The town consists of one main street, and some that cross it, which I have not seen-The chief street ascends with a quick rise for a great length: the houses are built some with rough stone, some with brick, and a few with timber-The castle, with its whole enclosure, has been a prodigious [The bishop at this time was Dr. Shipley. Upon another occasion, when Johnson dined in company with Dr. Shipley, he said he was knowing and conversible. Their difference in politics would hardly admit of more praise from Johnson.-DUPPA.] 2 [Lloyd was raised to the see of St. Asaph in 1680. He was one of the seven bishops who were sent to the Tower in 1688, for refusing to permit the publication of the royal declaration for liberty of conscience, and was a zealous promoter of the revolution. He died Bishop of Worcester, August 30, 1717, at ninety-one years of age. Dodwell was a man of extensive learning, and an intimate friend of Lloyd, and, like him, a great friend to the revolution. He also entertained religious opinions which were, for the greater part of his life, inconvenient to him: but when he became an old man, his reason prevailed over those scruples, to which his skill in controversy, in the vigour of his life, had given more importance than they deserved.-DUPPA.] Wales. pile; it is now so ruined that the form of the in- Tour to habited part cannot easily be traced-There are, as in all old buildings, said to be extensive vaults, which the ruins of the upper works cover and conceal, but into which boys sometimes find a way-To clear all passages, and trace the whole of what remains, would require much labour and expense-We saw a church, which was once the chapel of the castle, but is used by the town: it is dedicated to St. Hilary, and has an income of about 2 At a small distance is the ruin of a church said to have been begun by the great Earl of Leicester 1, and left unfinished at his death-One side, and I think the east end, are yet standing-There was a stone in the wall over the doorway, which it was said would fall and crush the best scholar in the diocese - One Price would not pass under it-They have taken it down-We then saw the chapel of Lleweney, founded by one of the Salusburies: it is very complete: the monumental stones lie in the ground-A chimney has been added to it, but it is otherwise not much injured, and might be easily repaired 3. We went to the parish church of Denbigh, which, being near a mile from the town, is only used when the parish officers are chosen-In the chapel, on Sundays, the service is read thrice, the second time only in English, the first and third in Welsh-The bishop came to survey the castle, and visited likewise St. Hilary's chapel, which is that which the town uses--The hay-barn, built with brick pillars from space to space, and covered with a roof-A more 1 [By Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, in 1579. He died Sept. 4, 1588. -DUPPA.] 2 [See a similar story of a building in Edinburgh, ante, v. ii. p. 277.-ED.] 3 [The late Sir Robert Salusbury Cotton had no taste for antiquity of any kind; and this chapel was not regarded by him as being in any respect better than a barn, or fit for any other purpose; and the present proprietor applies it to that use.-DUPPA.] Wales. Tour to elegant and lofty hovel-The rivers here are mere torrents which are suddenly swelled by the rain to great breadth and great violence, but have very little constant stream; such are the Clwyd and the Elwy— There are yet no mountains-The ground is beautifully embellished with woods, and diversified with inequalities-In the parish church of Denbigh is a bas-relief of Lloyd the antiquary, who was before Camden-He is kneeling at his prayers 1. 5 2 Tuesday, 2d August.-We rode to a summerhouse of Mr. Cotton, which has a very extensive prospect; it is meanly built, and unskilfully disposed -We went to Dymerchion church, where the old clerk acknowledged his mistress-It is the parish church of Bâch y Graig-A mean fabric; Mr. Salusbury was buried in it: Bâch y Graig has fourteen seats in it. As we rode by, I looked at the house again-We saw Llannerch, a house not mean, with a small park very well watered-There was an avenue of oaks, which, in a foolish compliance with the present mode, has been cut down-A few are yet standing: the owner's name is Davies-The way lay through pleasant lanes, and overlooked a region beautifully diversified with trees and grass. At Dymerchion church there is English service only once a month-this is about twenty miles from the English border-The old clerk had great appearance of joy at the sight of his mistress, and foolishly said, that [Humphry Llwyd was a native of Denbigh, and practised there as a physician, and also represented the town in parliament. He died 1568, aged fortyone.-DUPPA.] 2 [This summer-house is in the grounds belonging to Lleweney, and their ride to it was to see the prospect: the situation commands a very beautiful view. -DUPPA.] 3 [Dymerchion is three miles from St. Asaph.-DUPPA.] [Bâch y Graig is the name of one of three townships of the parish of Dymerchion.-DUPPA.] 5 [Mrs. Thrale's father.-DUPPA.] 6 [Of Bâch y Graig.-Piozzi MS.] 7 [Robert Davies, Esq. At his house there was an extensive library.-Dupra.] Wales. he was now willing to die-He had only1 a crown Tour to given him by my mistress-At Dymerchion church the texts on the walls are in Welsh. Wednesday, 3d August.-We went in the coach to Holywell-Talk with mistress about flattery 2— Holywell is a market town, neither very small nor mean-The spring called Winifred's Well is very clear, and so copious, that it yields one hundred tuns of water in a minute-It is all at once a very great stream, which, within perhaps thirty yards of its irruption, turns a mill, and in a course of two miles, eighteen mills more--In descent, it is very quickIt then falls into the sea-The well is covered by a lofty circular arch, supported by pillars; and over this arch is an old chapel, now a school-The chancel is separated by a wall-The bath is completely and indecently open-A woman bathed while we all looked on-In the church, which makes a good appearance, and is surrounded by galleries to receive a numerous congregation, we were present while a child was christened in Welsh-We went down by the stream to see a prospect, in which I had no part -We then saw a brass work, where the lapis calaminaris is gathered, broken, washed from the earth and 1 [In the MS. in Dr. Johnson's handwriting, he has first entered in his diary, "The old clerk had great appearance of joy at seeing his mistress, and foolishly said that he was now willing to die." He afterwards wrote in a separate column, on the same leaf, under the head of notes and omissions, "He had a crown ;" and then he appears to have read over his diary at a future time, and interlined the paragraph with the words "only"-"given him by my mistress," which is written in ink of a different colour. This shows that he read his diary over after he wrote it, and that where his feelings were not accurately expressed, he amended them.-DUPPA.] He re 2 ["He said that I flattered the people to whose houses we went: I was saucy, and said I was obliged to be civil for two-meaning himself and me. plied, nobody would thank me for compliments they did not understand. At Gwaynynog (Mr. Myddleton's), however, he was flattered, and was happy of course."-Piozzi MS. Johnson had no dislike to those commendations which are commonly imputed to flattery. Upon one occasion, he said to Mrs. Thrale, "What signifies protesting so against flattery! when a person speaks well of one, it must be either true or false, you know if true, let us rejoice in his good opinion; if he lies, it is a proof at least that he loves more to please me, than to sit silent when he need say nothing." "The difference between praise and flattery is the same as between that hospitality that sets wine enough before the guest, and that which forces him to drink."-Piozzi's Anec. p. 141.-DUPPA.] Wales. Tour to the lead, though how the lead was separated I did not see; then calcined, afterwards ground fine, and then mixed by fire with copper--We saw several strong fires with melting pots, but the construction of the fireplaces I did not learn-At a copper-work which receives its pigs of copper, I think, from Warrington, we saw a plate of copper put hot between steel rollers, and spread thin: I know not whether the upper roller was set to a certain distance, as I suppose, or acted only by its weight-At an ironwork I saw round bars formed by a notched hammer and anvil-There I saw a bar of about half an inch or more square, cut with shears worked by water, and then beaten hot into a thinner bar-The hammers all worked, as they were, by water, acting upon small bodies, moved very quick, as quick as by the hand-I then saw wire drawn, and gave a shilling-I have enlarged my notions, though not been able to see the movements; and having not time to peep closely, I knew less than I might-I was less weary, and had better breath, as I walked farther. Thursday, 4th August.-Rhudlan1 Castle is still a very noble ruin; all the walls still remain, so that a complete platform, and elevations, not very imperfect, may be taken -It encloses a square of about thirty yards-The middle space was always open— The wall is, I believe, about thirty feet high, very thick, flanked with six round towers, each about eighteen feet, or less, in diameter-Only one tower had a chimney, so that there was commodity of living-It was only a place of strength-The garrison had, perhaps, tents in the area. 3 Stapylton's house is pretty; there are pleasing [In the first edition this name was by mistake printed Ruthin.-ED.] 2 [Meaning, probably, could be drawn on paper.-ED.] 3 ["No," or little," is probably here omitted.-ED.] 4 [The name of this house is Bodryddan [pronounced, writes Mrs. Piozzi, Potrothan]; formerly the residence of the Stapyltons, the parents of five co |