fila, on their approach to Kouka, waded through a still water called Chugelarem, which was said to be a branch of the Tchad, and to be increased considerably by the overflowings of that lake in the rainy season. They also crossed a very considerable river called the Yeou, in some parts more than fifty yards wide, with a fine bard sandy bottom, and banks nearly perpendicular, and with a strong current running three miles and a half in an hour to the eastward. One of the Arabs said that this was the Nile, and that it ran into the Tchad. Upon this information, however, no dependence could be placed, as it is well known that the name of the Nile is popularly given to many rivers besides the one to which it alone belongs. The Yeou is at times considerably wider and deeper than the kafila found it, and it is represented on the map as flowing into the great lake.

Before the mission entered Kouka, (on the 17th of February, 1823,) they were in a state of great uncertainty as to the manner in which they should be received there. They were the first Europeans who had approached so near it. The accounts which they had concerning its population were confused and contradictory, and they did not know whether they should find its chief at the head of thousands, or be received by him under a tree surrounded by a few naked slaves.' What, then, must have been their surprise to see soon in front of them a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in line, mounted on small but perfect horses, and regulating all their movements with admirable precision and expertness! The Sheikh's first General, Barca Gana, appeared to be a negro of a noble aspect, clothed in a figured silk tobe' (shirt), and the Sheikh's body-guard of negroes were habited in coats of mail, composed of iron chain, which covered them from the throat to the knees, dividing behind, and coming on each side of the horse: some of them had helmets, or rather skull-caps, of the same metal, with chinpieces, all sufficiently strong to ward off the shock of a spear. Their horses' heads were also defended by plates of iron, brass, and silver, just leaving sufficient room for the eyes of the animal. The representation given in one of the plates of a negro thus mounted and equipped resembles in every thing but the helmet and countenance an European knight in the chain-armour of the chivalrous ages. After a good deal of ceremony, the mission were admitted within the gates of Kouka, and kindly received by the Sheikh, whose personal appearance was prepossessing, animated by an expressive countenance and a benevolent smile. He had previously ordered huts to be built for them, and told them he would be happy to gratify their wishes in every respect. At their next interview the Sheikh betrayed a spark of that vanity which seems to be natural to man in every clime and in every stage of society.

The Sheikh showed evident satisfaction at our assurance, that the King of England had heard of Bornou and himself; and immediately turning to his kaganawha (counsellor), said, "This is in consequence of

our defeating the Begharmis." Upon which the chief who had most distinguished himself in these memorable battles, Bagah Furby, (the gatherer of horses,) seating himself in front of us, demanded, "Did he ever hear of me?" The immediate reply of " Certainly" did wonders for our Exclamations were general; and, "Ah! then, your King must be a great man!" was re-echoed from every side.'. p. 68.

cause.

Denham,

The travellers had presents of provisions, not in baskets, but by camel-loads. Bullocks, wheat, rice, butter, honey, and fish, were placed before their huts in such abundance, that the Sheikh must have had an extraordinary idea of their powers of consumption. One of the first novelties which they witnessed at Kouka was the market.

Slaves, sheep, and bullocks, the latter in great numbers, were the principal live stock for sale. There were at least fifteen thousand persons gathered together, some of them coming from places two and three days distant. Wheat, rice, and gussub, were abundant: tamarinds in the pod, ground nuts, ban beans, ochroes, and indigo; the latter is very good, and in great use amongst the natives, to dye their tobes (shirts) and linen, stripes of deep indigo colour, or stripes of it alternately with white, being highly esteemed by most of the Bornou women: the leaves are moistened, and pounded up altogether when they are formed into lumps, and so brought to market. Of vegetables there was a great scarcity onions, bastard tomatoes, alone were offered for sale; and of fruits not any a few limes, which the Sheikh had sent us from his garden, being the only fruit we had seen in Bornou. Leather was in great quantities; and the skins of the large snake, and pieces of the skin of the crocodile, used as an ornament for the scabbards of their daggers, were also brought to me for sale; and butter, leban (sour milk), honey, and wooden bowls, from Soudan. The costumes of the women, who for the most part were the vendors, were various: those of Kanem and Bornou were most numerous, and the former was as becoming as the latter had a contrary appearance. The variety in costume amongst the ladies consists entirely in the head-ornaments; the only difference, in the scanty covering which is bestowed on the other parts of the person, lies in the choice of the wearer, who either ties the piece of linen, blue or white, under the arms, and across the breasts, or fastens it rather fantastically on one shoulder, leaving one breast naked. The Kanemboo women have small plaits of hair hanging down all around the head, quite to the poll of the neck, with a roll of leather or string of little brass beads in front, hanging down from the centre on each side of the face, which has by no means an unbecoming appearance: they have sometimes strings of silver rings instead of the brass, and a large round silver ornament in front of their foreheads. The female slaves from Musgow, a large kingdom to the south-east of Mandara, are particularly disagreeable in their appearance, although considered as very trustworthy, and capable of great labour: their hair is rolled up in three large plaits, which extend from the forehead to the back of the neck, like the Bornowy; one larger in the centre, and two smaller on each side: they have silver studs in their nose, and one large one just under the lower lip of the size of a shilling, which goes quite through into the mouth; to make room for this ornament, a tooth or two is sometimes displaced.' - Denham, pp. 69, 70.

Purchases are chiefly made by barter, or paid for by small beads, pieces of coral and amber, or coarse linen, which all the people manufacture, and is sold at the rate of forty yards for a dollar. The mission had not been many days at Kouka, when, through Boo-Khaloom, they received word from the Sheikh that "they should be welcome to see any part of his dominions, but that out of them he could not suffer the mission at present to go.' The truth is, that these uncivilised rulers of central Africa have no conception of the motives which can induce foreigners to penetrate their remote and unhealthy dominions. They do not understand the curiosity of intelligent minds, and they suspect that some attack is secretly meditated against their own power, some design intended against their possessions or those of their people. It was even reported at Kouka, that one of the purposes of the mission was to build ships, in which they should embark upon the Tchad, and return to their own country, and then that the white people would come and destroy them all! Some countenance was probably given to this rumour, by the fact that they were attended by a ship-carpenter, Hillman, who was found a very useful and faithful servant of the mission. The rumour, however, seems to have originated with some Mourzuk merchants, who had preceded them, and who no doubt apprehended that their trade in slaves, and in the produce of the country, would be injured by the strangers. Through the influence of Boo-Khaloom, however, the Sheikh was undeceived, and the presents which the mission gave him had a wonderful effect in their favour. He and the people of the town were particularly astonished by some rockets which were displayed for their amusement. Major Denham gives us the following as a sample of the best residences in Kouka. The habitation belonged to one of the Sheikh's principal shouas, and consisted of two inclosures, besides one for his horses, cows, and goats.

In the first of these divisions was a circular hut, with a cupola top, well thatched with gussub straw, something resembling that of the Indian corn: the walls were of the same materials; a mud wall, of about two feet high, separated one part from the rest, and here his corn was kept; and a bench of like simple composition, at the opposite side, was his resting-place: this was covered with mats; and his spears, and wooden bowls for water and milk, hung on pegs, completed the furniture here was his own apartment. In the second division there were two huts, rather smaller, about ten paces from each other, in which dwelt his two wives: they were called to the door, and desired to salute me; but on looking up, uttered a scream, and hiding their faces with their hands, crept back again so quickly, as to make me almost ashamed of my complexion.' - Denham, pp. 75, 76.

Kouka is a very considerable town, and at the distance of sixteen miles from it is Angornou, also a large and populous town, where the Sheikh resided before he built Kouka. Two miles farther south, stands Birnie, which is walled, and is supposed to contain ten thou

sand inhabitants, who reside in huts similar to those in Kouka. The travellers visited Angornou and Birnie in company with Boo-Khaloom. At the latter place they were received by the Sultan with the most prodigal hospitality. No fewer than seventy dishes of mutton and poultry, baked, boiled, and stewed, were sent to their residence for their dinner, each of which would have served at least half-adozen persons. The Sultan reigns by sufferance of the Sheikh; and though he lives in a mud-edifice he affects all the pomp, folly, and bigotry of the ancient negro sovereigns.

Large bellies and large heads are indispensable for those who serve the court of Bornou; and those who unfortunately possess not the former by nature, or on whom lustiness will not be forced by cramming, make up the deficiency of protuberance by a wadding, which, as they sit on the horse, gives the belly the curious appearance of hanging over the pummel of the saddle. The eight, ten, and twelve shirts, of different colours, that they wear one over the other, help a little to increase this greatness of person: the head is enveloped in folds of muslin or linen of various colours, though mostly white, so as to deform it as much as possible; and those whose turban seemed to be the most studied had the effect of making the head appear completely on one side. Besides this, they are hung all over with charms, inclosed in little red leather parcels, strung together; the horse, also, has them round his neck, in front of his head, and about the saddle.' - Denham, pp. 78, 79.,

The Sultan generally appears to his court in a sort of cage; he is distinguished by wearing a larger turban than any of his subjects, and his face, from the nose downwards, is completely covered. Angornou is represented as the largest and most populous town of Bornou. It is said to contain at least thirty thousand inhabitants, and the huts are generally more commodious and extensive than those of Kouka. There is a public market once a-week, which the natives said was attended in peaceable times sometimes by eighty or a hundred thousand persons. Fish, flesh, and fowls, are abundant there. The only vegetables are tomatas and onions. Linen is so cheap that the males generally wear shirts and trowsers. Want of the latter bespeaks extreme poverty. The principal demand is for amber and coral; pieces of brass are also much sought after, and readily bring money, whereas all other sorts of merchandise are paid for in slaves, or tobes. The men are well grown, but the mouth is large, the lips thick, and to a stranger the features appear ugly. Beauty of this description is all relative. Many of the people in the market, when they saw the white English faces, ran away from them 'irresistibly affrighted' It would seem, however, that nature has constructed the organs of hearing in every order of the human race upon the same plan. Upon Denham's return to Kouka he showed the Sheikh a musical box.

He was at first greatly astonished, and asked several questions, exclaiming, "A gieb! gieb!" "Wonderful! wonderful!" but the sweetness of the Swiss Ranz-des-Vaches which it played, at last overcame

every other feeling: he covered his face with his hand and listened in silence; and on one man near him breaking the charm by a loud exclamation, he struck him a blow which made all his followers tremble. He instantly asked, "If one twice as large would not be better?" I said "Yes; but it would be twice as dear." By G-!" said he, "if one thousand dollars would purchase it, it would be cheap." - Denham, p. 85.

The Major very adroitly presented the box to the Sheikh, and thus advanced at once to the highest degree of intimacy and favour with him. This circumstance Denham turned to immediate advantage, by obtaining permission to visit the Tchad, which lies about fifteen miles eastward from Kouka. He observed evident proofs of its overflowings and recedings near the shores; but beyond was an expanse of waters, as far as the eye could reach east and southeast.'~ The lake produces fine mullet, in great abundance, which is easily captured, and almost as easily cooked; 'a stick is run through the mouth of the fish, and quite along the belly to the tail: this stick is then stuck in the ground, with the head of the fish downwards, and inclined towards the fire, and by turning them constantly by the tail, they are most excellently dressed.' Great numbers of elephants, buffaloes, and antelopes, were seen in the neighbourhood of the lake; but it is infested by such myriads of mosquitoes, and other venomous insects, that it is scarcely possible for man or beast to remain long on its immediate borders. Had it not been for this intolerable nuisance, Denham says that as he pursued the course of the water he saw spots where he could with delight have pitched his tent for a week. Some of the villages through which he passed were quite new, and occupied by emigrants from Kanemboo, than whom,' he says, 'I never saw handsomer or better formed people.' On this occasion, however, Denham acquired little information concerning the lake, his excursion was limited, and he returned to Kouka.

We have already said that the real motives of the Arabs in joining the escort under Boo-Khaloom were not quite apparent at the commencement of the journey. They now became much more so. Boo-Khaloom's purpose was to dispose of his merchandise to the best advantage: the great object of the Arabs was to be led to Mandara upon an expedition of plunder, or, as they call it, a ghrazzie. They began to mutiny; and were so violent, that Boo-, Khaloom was obliged to yield to their demand, although it is due to his memory to say that he resisted the scheme as far as it was possible. It was to this expedition that Major Demham so imprudently, as we think, attached himself, in order to have an opportunity of exploring the Mandara country. He took this step against the positive directions of his friend the Sheikh; and, after some delay, on the 17th of April, he joined the Arabs and the Sheikh's people on their march, the former under the command of BooKhaloom, the latter under Barca Gana, already mentioned. Their