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IX.

RAILWAYS IN LONDON.

LONDON has no wall around it, but the railway viaducts have somewhat the appearance of a city wall. The houses are so close together that in many places there is no room for a railway to pass, when recourse is had to a bridge made of huge stones, which soars, as it were, over the houses. The framework of these bridges is of iron planked with wood, on which are spread earth and sand. People who are lying on their beds down below in houses one hundred feet high, are almost always conscious of a noise above them, and know when a train is passing overhead by its low, continuous rumble, as of thunder; while to one seated in the train the people below look like the warp and woof of some texture, and the streets, lanes, and marketplaces like deep interstices in a mountain-side; or one is inclined to believe that they are channels cut out of the ground, and to forget that one is on a bridge far up above them. It is as if one were on a level with the topmost point of a pagoda, and able, by stooping, to touch the mastheads of tall ships as they passed. When I first reached London everything that I saw frightened and astonished me.

...

X.

A RECEPTION AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE. THE Women were nude about the arms and neck, and did not seem to avoid coming in contact with the men. They held flowers in their hands. Their caps and dresses were of several colors; the latter are folded into many pleats behind, having the appearance of a wasps' nest, and end in a train which drags on the ground for five or six feet behind them. All who know one another shake hands without distinction of sex. The officers in waiting hold up the trains of the ladies who advance to be introduced, lest by stepping on them they should fall over and lose countenance.

XI.

DOCTORS AND MIDWIVES.

AT the birth of children medical men always act as accoucheurs. The government, in its desire for the increase of population, regards the birth of children as a matter of the first importance to the State. When an infant dies inquiry is made as to the cause of death, and the

parents, if they are to blame, are punished. In England officials and people alike regard à numerous progeny as a nuisance, and a small one as a blessing. This is why the State ordains inquiry as to the cause of death. The attendance of medical men at birth is caused by the desire on the part of the government to preserve as many children as possible: it is feared that midwives, in their ignorance, may cause injury to the child that may result in its early death, and the doctor attends that the child may be brought into the world under the most favorable conditions possible, the end in view being the increase of population. With this object Europeans disregard the separation that should exist between the sexes (i.e. allow men to act as accoucheurs). In China our sacred religion would require that women should be taught surgery, for in this way both ends might be attainedskill in the accoucheur, and respect for decency.

XII.

CAPITAL AND LABOR.

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[After a description of what he saw at the Times office, Liu Ta-jên says:] Although a good many men are employed in the Times office and in delivering the paper at the houses of subscribers, the number engaged in attending to the look after the type and five or six regulate machinery is very small. If two men the machinery, that is enough. It seems to me that if no machinery were used in printing the Times, but hand labor alone, there would be no difficulty in turning out the necessary number of copies. Each workman might be ordered to prepare a separate type, and, as soon as the composition of the paper was concluded, a time might be fixed by which each man should produce one hundred copies. If this plan were followed twenty-eight hundred men would be employed to produce the two hundred and eighty thousand copies required; and if the daily receipts $4,375 (?) were divided amongst these twenty-eight hundred men, each man would get rather over $1.50 a day; and, although living is dear in England, this sum would suffice to support a family of eight persons, and thus a population of more than twenty thousand souls would live by this industry alone. Why, then, use machinery and rob these twenty thousand men of their means of exist ence? But this is the very reason why England is so rich. The English are a

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and the wonders he saw there, Liu Tajên says:] This (mechanical contrivance) is what Englishmen call true knowledge; and in their view our holy doctrine (Confucianism) is mere empty and useless talk. Lest educated Chinese should be deceived into agreement with this opinion, I beg to offer the following explanation. Well, then, this "true knowledge of theirs simply consists in various feats of deft manipulation - knowledge that can turn out a machine, and nothing more. Is not this what Tzu Hsia means when he says: Something may be learned by inquiry into the most insignificant doctrine (lit. road); but the wise man will not follow it far, lest he find himself in the mire of its follies and ab

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hard-working race, and they have millions of devices for getting money. If one man invents a machine and makes a fortune, his neighbors immediately set to work to invent another that shall excel it and carry off the coveted gains. Power in design and skill in execution advance hand in hand towards the end in view. The more the faculty of invention is used, the sharper it becomes; the more goods manufactured, the more there are for consumption; the more wealth amassed, the greater the number of rich families able to purchase. Thus all sorts of goods find an easy market, the lower classes a means of subsistence, and the national exchequer a source of wealth. In London, in making purchases or presents, one uses gold, and not copper. To buy surdities." The doctrine handed down the commonest article or reward the smallest service is an expensive matter; it is not often that a shilling will suffice. Money is so easily obtained that there is no scruple in spending it freely. The yearly expenditure of the English nation amounts to over 100,000,000l. Money is liberally voted for the education of the people, and the large sums thus expended are not grudged in consideration of the number of the population. For suppose a government contentedly leaving tens of thousands of its people to be supported by a single industry: they might settle quietly down to the drudgery of their work without a gleam of ambition or hope of better fortune in the future; and, although they might be saved the prospect of death from starvation, would there not be a great waste of power and intelligence, a great obstruction of the very source of wealth? In England there is strong competition in everything connected with the mechanical arts. When there is a possibility of making money, no inquiry is too insignificant or too laborious for an Englishman, no journey too long or too dangerous. All children of both sexes are sent early to school, where they are thoroughly taught reading, arithmetic, astronomy, geography, and many other subjects. When they reach twelve years of age all are able to assist in some manufacture to the best of their knowledge and ability.

XIII.

EUROPEAN CIVILIZATION COMPARED
WITH CHINESE.

[AFTER giving an account of a visit to the Polytechnic Institution in London,

to us from our holy men of old may be summed up in two words, humanity and justice. Humanity springs from the pure and good disposition inherent in the heart of man; justice is conformity to right in one's dealings. A man who follows the precepts of humanity and justice is beautiful in his speech and admirable in his actions. The great object of these two virtues is conformity to the principles which should rule the relations between prince and officer, father and son, older and younger brothers, husband and wife, and friend and friend . . . [Here follows a long disquisition on the results of the due observance of the duties entailed by the above five relationships.] And, fearing the results that might follow from the opposition of the wicked to the sacred doctrine, our holy men supported it by the institution of an armed force and of punishments; but these forces were only brought into use when absolutely required to put down those who violated the principles of humanity and justice, never were they used to compass the ends of violence and aggression: thus even our army and our penal laws wore the expression of humanity and justice. The Chinese people from the time of the Ch'in (B.C. 255) and the Han (B.C. 206) dynasties to that of the Yuan (A.D. 1206) and the Ming (1368-1644), were peaceful and prosperous or disorderly and rebellious according as the sacred doctrine was respected or ignored. . . . All creatures that live and breathe under heaven have ears and eyes, claws and teeth, and each endeavors to procure for itself as much as possible to eat and drink, and to seize and carry off more than its fellows; man alone is able to set a bound to his greed.

Man can claim to be considered superior to the beasts only because he has a distinct conception of time and of duty, because he knows of virtue and abstract

right, and can see that material strength and self-advantage are not everything. At present the nations of Europe think it praiseworthy to relieve the poor and to help the distressed, and are therefore humane in this one respect; they think it important to be fair and truthful, and are therefore just in this one respect. If Europeans, in truth, understood the duties resulting from the five relationships, then we should discern the effects in their lives. Love between prince and minister, father and son, elder and young. er brothers, husband and wife, friend and friend would bring due subordination and careful fulfilment of relative duties; peace and order would reign supreme; there would be no angry rivalry or unrestrained greed, making use of deadly weapons to bring destruction on mankind. But do we see these results in Western countries? No, indeed! Their whole energy is centred in the manufacture of different kinds of machines -steam-vessels and

locomotives to bring rapid returns of profit, guns and rifles to slay their fellowmen. They rival one another, in greed, and in cunning methods of acquiring wealth; they say they are rich and mighty; and put it all down to their true knowledge, forsooth!

But from the time when the heavens were spread out and the earth came into existence, China can boast a continuous line of great men; so that man's wants have been better supplied each day than the one before it, and our language immeasurably excels those of Europe in strength and depth. Property is wealth to the foreigner; moderation in his desires to the Chinese: material power is might to the foreigner; to live and let live is might to the Chinese. But the heaping up of words will not explain these principles. China forbids strange devices (machinery) in order to prevent confusion; she encourages humanity and justice as the very foundation of good government; and this will be her policy forever. Yet foreigners say that such principles are profitless. Profitless, indeed! Profitable, rather, beyond expresF. S. A. BOURNE

sion!

(Translator).

From Fraser's Magazine.

INVERAWE AND TICONDEROGA.

IT was in the dreary autumn of 1877 that in the dark woods of Roseneath I heard the following tale from the parish clergyman who ministers with so much ability to the inhabitants of that famous and beautiful spot. I repeat it in the first instance as it was repeated to me, reserving to a subsequent page the variations which further investigations have rendered necessary.

that

In the middle of the last century the chief of the Campbells of Inverawe had been giving an entertainment at his castle on the banks of the Awe. The party had broken up and Campbell was left alone. He was roused by a violent knocking at the gate, and was surprised at the appearance of one of his guests, with torn garments and dishevelled hair, demanding admission. "I have killed a man, and I am pursued by enemies. I beseech you to let me in. Swear upon your dirk upon the cruachan or hip where your dirk rests swear by Ben Cruachan * you will not betray me." Campbell swore, and placed the fugitive in a secret place in the house. Presently there was a second knocking at the gate. It was a party of his guests, who said, "Your cousin Donald has been killed; where is the murderer?" At this announcement Campbell remembered the great oath which he had sworn, gave an evasive answer, and sent off the pursuers in a wrong direction. He then went to the fugitive and said, "You have killed my cousin Donald. I The murderer cannot keep you here." appealed to his oaths, and persuaded Campbell to let him stay for the night. Campbell did so, and retired to rest. the visions of that night the blood-stained Donald appeared to him with words: "Inverawe, Inverawe, blood has been shed; shield not the murderer." and told him that any further shelter was the morning Campbell went to his guest, impossible. He took him, however, to a cave in Ben Cruachan, and there left him. The night again closed in, and Campbell again slept, and again the blood-stained Donald appeared. Inverawe, Inverawe, derer." On the morning he went to the blood has been shed; shield not the murcave on the mountain, and the murderer had fled. Again at night he slept, and

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again the blood-stained Donald rose be- | therefore compelled to visit the spot fore him and said, "Inverawe, Inverawe, without the benefit of his guidance. blood has been shed. We shall not meet again till we meet at Ticonderoga." He woke in the morning, and behold it was a dream. But the story of the triple apparition remained by him, and he often told it amongst his kinsmen, asking always what the ghost could mean by this mysterious word of their final rendez

vous.

In 1758 there broke out the French and English war in America, which after many rebuffs ended in the conquest of Quebec by General Wolfe. Campbell of Inverawe went out with the Black Watch, the 42nd Highland Regiment, afterwards so famous. There, on the eve of an engagement, the general came to the officers and said, "We had better not tell Campbell the name of the fortress which we are to attack to-morrow. It is Ticonderoga. Let us call it Fort George." The assault took place in the morning. Campbell was mortally wounded. He sent for, the general. These were his last words: "General, you have deceived me; I have seen him again. This is Ticonderoga.'

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The story, romantic in itself, was the more impressive from the fact that Ticonderoga was a name familiar to me from the monuments in the south aisle of Westminster Abbey to two officers killed in that disastrous affair. One is to Lord Howe, erected by "the Province of Massachusetts Bay," not yet the State of Massachusetts. The other is to Colonel Townsend, with the fortress carved on the monument, and two red Indians underneath it.*

When in the following year, 1878, I visited America, I was resolved, if possible, to explore the place and discover any traces of Campbell of Inverawe. It was on a delightful evening spent at Hartford in Connecticut with that flower of the American episcopate, Bishop Williams, who had made the lakes of those regions his especial study, that I repeated the story of Campbell of Inverawe, which he had never heard before. We arranged for a rendezvous on the spot at a later time of my journey. "We shall not meet again till we meet at Ticonderoga." It so happened that unexpected engagements prevented the good bishop from keeping his appointment, and we were

The date on the monument is 1759, but this is probably a mistake for 1758.

Ticonderoga is situated on the isthmus which unites Lake George with Lake Champlain. These two lakes, in connection with the Hudson which runs as it were to their feet, in those early days of American history, were the great thoroughfare of the country the only means of penetrating through the dense masses of tangled forest which then as now overhung them from rock, and pinnacle, and hill. Lake George especially was the Loch Katrine of those highlands, and the natural features gave additional interest to the movements of English or French armies on the surface of its waters. I venture to give a brief memorandum supplied for our journey by Bishop Williams. It conveys much interesting

information.

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The French name "St. Sacrament" was The lake was entered on the eve of Corpus given at the time of its discovery in 1649. Christi Day-le jour du Saint Sacrement· and hence the name. The story that the name was given because the waters of the lake were used, on account of their purity, in baptism, is untrue.

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The English name was given in 1755, in fancy it will be. The lake was seen, I behonor of George II. It ought to be kept, and lieve, by Samuel Champlain, in 1609. He joined an expedition of Canadian Indians that year (in the summer) against the Iroquois, and the first gun ever fired in the northern part of the United States was fired during this expedi tion on Lake Champlain. It was the herald of the coming wars, and fired against the Iroquois it set them against the French. In 1649, Father Jogues entered the lake on May 29, and gave it its French name. Andiatarocte, which is said to mean “where

the lake closes."

He also calls it

It came first into notice in 1755, at the beginning, in America, of the Seven Years' War, and its whole story is one of battles and sieges. There is, to my mind, a picturesqueness in these wars which is specific and peculiar. Most Indian battles are wearisomely monoto

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nous; it is all dodging behind trees and erected on the spot by the owner of the making ambushes. Civilized battles are mo-property:* "Near this spot fell, July 6, notonous also. Armies move in them like 1758, in a skirmish preceding Abercrommachines. In these wars there is room for bie's defeat by Montcalm, Lord George individual prowess, and yet with it mingles the order and manoeuvring of trained troops. setts erected a monument to him in WestAugustus Howe, aged 34. minster Abbey. Ticonderoga places here this monument, 1876." The brook by which he fell, once called Northbrook, is now called Lord Howe Brook.f

The white coats of France and the red coats

of England, the Lily of the Bourbon, and the Cross of St. George, the tent of the soldier, and the wigwam or forest fire of the Indian, the soldier in his uniform, the provincial in his hunting-shirt, the savage in his war-paint, are all mingled together in picturesque confusion in the virgin forest, on mountain and by

lake.

on

The fortress stands in a commanding position, overhanging Lake Champlain. It is called by its Indian name Ticonderoga (abridged by modern Americans + That sudden uprising of the French into "Ti"), meaning the sounding of the soldiers in the boat on the waters of Lake waters. Champlain, the discoverer of George, and the discharge into the un- the lake, had given it the corresponding suspecting Indians, was the momentous name of Carillon-"the chimes or meloshot* which, exasperating the whole of dies of the waters." The river, in fact, the great Iroquois tribe against the forms a precipitous cascade as it falls French, contributed in large measure to from one lake to the other, and is travthe ultimate decision of the preponder- ersed by more than one rude bridge.§ It ance of the English over the French turns the wheels of the "Old King's cause in North America. The names of Saw-mill." The "Old King's Store" is Colonel Williams, the founder of the on the promontory. It was taken by Williams University, amidst the hills of Judge Hay, a Scotsman. Local tradition the American Berkshire - of Fort Wil- maintains that his ancestor routed the liam Henry from the Duke of Cumber- English with his hickory club. Hence land-the tragical story of Jane Macrea, the king of Scotland || called out "Hey! which evidently furnished the basis of Hey! Hey!" This is not the only Scot"The Last of the Mohicans"-had al- tish name connected with Ticonderoga. ready given a kind of celebrity to this romantic region when General Abercrombie led his expedition, on a flotilla, down the lake, including the Highland regiment, in 1758, against the fortress of Ticonderoga, which commanded the whole region. There was a Scottish lady,† then living as a girl in Albany. She watched the splendid array leave the town; she saw the dismal return. They advanced from Lake George across the neck of land which has to be crossed before the approach to the fortress. On that neck of land a preliminary skirmish occurred in which the young and gallant Lord Howe lost his life. He was beloved by Americans and English; he united the most austere sense of discipline with the most engaging attention to the wants of the soldiery and the most courteous attention to the society in which he so gracefully moved. It is he to whom the province of Massachusetts Bay erected the monument, already mentioned, in Westminster Abbey, and to his memory, in these last few years, a memorial stone has been

So I remember it was graphically and forcibly described by Bishop Coxe, with whom we crossed the Atlantic.

† Mrs. Grant, in her "Memoirs of an American Lady," p. 204-208.

The whole property belonged till recently to Edward Ellice, of Invergarry. Two conspicuous mountains look down Ticonderoga, both connected with its after history. One is Mount Independence, from the proclamation of the Declaration of Independence there on July 18, 1776. The other is Sugar-Loaf Hill, where General Burgoyne took the fortress at sunrise in 1777, and gave it the name of Mount Defiance, which it still retains. The fortress itself is now a ruin, — it may be said about the only ruin in the United States. One can figure the passage by which the giant Ethan Allen and the daring Arnold forced their way into the fort in 1776, and the window out of which appeared the surprised commander and his wife. But it is curious to see how short a time is needed to produce the venerable aspect of decay and age. Ticonderoga is as complete a ruin as Conway or Kenilworth. It was in the

United States.

The Rev. W. Cooke, a well-known lecturer in the †The American mistakes of the title are observable. The place got a bad name from the races on the ice. "T" was synonymous with depravity. God up there," was a signboard on the lake.

See the account further on.

"No

I saw this in a local history of Ticonderoga on the spot. It is needless to point out that this is an American version of the legend of the Battle of Luncarty.

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