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BOOK III,
Chap. IV.

ANOTHER

GROUP OF
ARCHEOLO-
GISTS AND
EXPLORERS.

THE

TRAVELS

AND RE-
SEARCHES
OF SIR

CHARLES
FELLOWS
IN LYCIA.

THE ANA

LOGIES AND

THE CON

TRASTS
BETWEEN
FELLOWS

AND

LAYARD.

were eventually to supply a master-key to vast libraries of
inscriptions brought to light after an entombment of twenty-
five hundred
years.

Scarcely smaller than the debt of gratitude which Britain owes to Mr. LAYARD and to Lord STRATFORD De Redcliffe, for the Marbles and other antiquities of Assyria, is the debt which she owes to the late Sir Charles FELLOWs for those of Lycia. Nor ought it to be passed over without remark that the admirably productive mission to the Levant of Mr. Charles NEWTON seems to have grown, in germ, out of the applications made at Constantinople on behalf of Sir Charles FELLOWS. In that merit he has but a very small share. The merit of the Lycian discoveries is all his own. He has now gone from amongst us,-like most of the benefactors whose public services have been recorded in this volume. How inadequate the record; how insufficient for the task the chronicler; no one will be so painfully conscious, as is the man whose hand-in the absence of a better hand has here attempted the narrative. The Museum story has been long. What remains to be said must needs be put more briefly. But because Sir Charles FELLOWS has been so lately removed from the land he served with so much zeal and ability, I shall still venture to claim the indulgence of my readers for a somewhat detailed account of the work done in Lycia, and of the man who did it.

In one respect, it was with Charles FELLOWS as with Austen LAYARD. A youthful passion for foreign travel, and what grew out of that, lifted each of them from obscurity into prominence. But LAYARD achieved fame at a much earlier age than did Sir Charles FELLOWs. Sir Charles was almost forty before his name came at all before the Public. LAYARD was already a personage at eight and

:

BOOK III,
ANOTHER

Chap. IV.

GROUP OF
ARCHEOLO-

EXPLORERS.

twenty. This small circumstantial difference between the fortune of two men whose pursuits in life were, for a time, so much alike, deserves to be kept in mind, on this account Sir Charles lived scarcely long enough to see any fair GISTS AND appreciation of what he had accomplished. Even those whose political sympathies incline them to a belief that Mr. LAYARD'S official services will never suffice to console Englishmen for the interruption of his archæological services, hope that he may live long enough to enjoy a rich reward for the latter in their yearly-increasing estimation by his countrymen at large. They will delight to see the fervid member for Southwark utterly eclipsed in the fame of the great discoverer of long-entombed Assyria.

THE

TRAVELS IN

ASIA MINOR,

AND WHAT

GREW

Sir Charles FELLOWS was the son of Mr. John FELLOWS, of Nottingham. He was born in 1799. In the year 1837, he set out upon a long tour in Asia Minor. Archæological discovery no more formed any part of a preconcerted plan in THEREOUT. Mr. FELLOWS' case than it did, two or three years afterwards, in Mr. LAYARD'S. Both were led to undertake their respective explorations in a way that (for want of a more appropriate word) we are all accustomed to call 'accidental.'

written during an

Excursion in pp. 8, seqq.

Asia Minor,

In February, 1838, he found himself at Smyrna. After a good deal of observation of men and manners, he betook himself to an inspection of the buildings. He soon found Journal that not a little of the modern Smyrna was built out of the ruins of the Smyrna of the old world. Busts, columns, entablatures, of white marble and of ancient workmanship, were everywhere visible, in close admixture with the recently-quarried building-stone of the country and the period. But not only had the old marbles been built into the new edifices; they had been turned into tombstones.

(edit. 1852).

BOOK III,
Chap. IV.
ANOTHER
GROUP OF
ARCHEOLO-

GISTS AND

EXPLORERS.

Ibid., p. 9.

THE EX

IN ANTI

PHELLUS

AND ITS

VICINITY.

1838, April.

Certain Jews, of an enterprising and practical turn of mind, had bought, in block, a whole hill-full of venerable marbles, in order to have an inexhaustible supply of new tombstones close at hand. In another part of the suburbs of the town, the walls of a large corn-field turned out, on close examination, to be built of thin and flat stones, of which the inner surface was formed of richly-patterned mosaic, black, white, and red. From that day, the traveller, wheresoever he journied, was a scrutinising archæologist. And the traveller, thus equipped for his work, was busied, two months afterwards, in exploring that most interesting part of Asia Minor (a part now called 'Anadhouly'), which includes Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, Phrygia, Pisidia, Lycia, Pamphylia, and Caria; and much of which was never before troddenso far as is known, and the knowledge referred to is that of the best geographers in England, discussing this matter expressly, at a meeting of the Geographical Society-by the feet of any European.*

On the eighteenth of April, Mr. FELLOWS found himself PLORATIONS in the romantically beautiful, but rugged and barren, neighbourhood of Antiphellus. The ancient town of that name possessed a theatre, and a multitude of temples, grandly placed on a far-outjutting promontory. For miles around, the rocks and the ravines were strewn with marble fragments. The face of the cliff, which, on one side, overhangs the town, was seen to be deeply indented with rock-tombs, richly adorned. They contained sarcophagi of a special

*And in which not a few readers will be sure to feel all the more interest, because of its sacred associations, when they call to mind those first-century travels of certain famous travellers who, after they had passed throughout Pisidia, came to Pamphylia, and . . . . . . when they had gone through Phrygia,. and were come to Mysia, assayed to go into Bythinia, but the Spirit suffered them not ;'-having work for them to do in another quarter.

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BOOK III,

Chap. VI. ANOTHER GROUP OF

ARCHEOLO

EXPLORERS.

The lid of each of them bore a rude resemblance to a pointed arch. It sounds at first almost grotesquely, in the ear of a reader of Mr. FELLOWS' Journal of 1839, to hear him speak of Lycian tombs as Elizabethan' in their GISTS AND architecture. But, in the sense intended, the term is strictly apposite. If the reader will but glance at one of Excursion, Mr. FELLOWS' many beautiful plates of those rock-tombs, he will see at once that they look not unlike the stonemullioned windows of our own Tudor age.

Journal of an

&c, as above,

p. 164.

But the discovery which eclipsed all Mr. FELLOWS' previous researches was that of the ancient capital of Lycia -Xanthus. Next in importance to that was his disinterment of Tlos. He saw the ruins of other and, in their day, famous towns. It was plain that he had now before him a fine opening to add to the stores of human knowledge in some of its grandest departments-artistic, historical, biblical. But, in 1838, he had not the most ordinary appliances of minute research. He went back to England; found (as LAYARD was also destined to find, very shortly afterwards) only a very little encouragement, at official hands; much more than a little, however, in his own reflections and foresight. In 1839, he went back to Lycia, FURTHER taking with him George SCHARF, then carefully described as a young English artist,' now widely known as an eminent archæologist. FELLOWS explored. SCHARF drew. Early in 1840, ten Lycian cities were added to the previous discoveries. Each of them contained many precious works 1840-42. of ancient art.

In order to effectual excavation, and in order-also to the safety of what was found from destruction by Turkish barbarities, the Sultan's firman was essential. The difficulties were much like those which, as I have had occasion to show

DISCOVERIES

IN THE
VALLEY OF
THE XAN-

O

THUS, AND

IN OTHER
PARTS OF
LYCIA;

BOOK III,
Chap. IV.
ANOTHER

GROUP OF
ARCHEOLO-
GISTS AND
EXPLORERS.

See Book II,
chap. 2;

pp. 382, seqq.

THE RE

SEARCHES AT
CADYANDA,

in 'Book Second,' lay in the path of Lord ELGIN, under similar circumstances, more than forty years earlier. By Lord PONSONBY's zealous efforts, they were at length surmounted. At the earnest instance of the Museum Trustees, the Government at home seconded the exertions of their ambassador at Constantinople; and this combination of endeavour made that feasible which the best energies of Sir Charles FELLOWS, single handed, must have utterly failed

to secure.

The reader will not, I incline to think, regard as an instance of overmuch detail, if I here add-for instructive comparison with the terms of the official letter procured by Lord ELGIN the words in which RIFAAT Pasha, in June, 1841, describes the antiquities, the removal whereof was to be graciously permitted. In 1800, Lord ELGIN (after enormous labour) was empowered to take away any pieces of stone, from the Temples of the Idols, with old inscriptions or figures thereon.' Now-in 1841-the 'pieces of stone' are described as 'antique remains and rare objects.' The schoolmaster, it will be seen, had been at work at Constantinople.

The explorations at Cadyanda, at Pinara, and at Sidyma, richly merit the reader's attention, as an essential part of PINARA, &c. our present subject. But happily Sir Charles FELLOWS' books are both accessible and popular. Here we must hasten on to Xanthus, and Sir Charles' story must now be told in his own expressive and graphic words:

ТНЕ ЕХСА-
VATIONS AT

'Xanthus certainly possesses some of the earliest Archaic XANTHUS. sculpture in Asia Minor, and this connected with the most beautiful of its monuments, and illustrated by the language of Lycia. These sculptures to which I refer must be the work of the sixth or seventh centuries before the Christian era, but I have not seen an instance of these remains having

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