ple, which had so long been unknown, was the temple stood on low and marshy soil, not made till the close of the year 1869. under the notion of its builders that such The results of his labors are now national a site was safer from earthquakes. It property; for many sculptured portions, was also known that it stood not very far with all the inscription's (more than four from the river Selinus, while other achundred in number), are deposited in the counts, less correctly or more vaguely, British Museum. The cost of the work stated that it was close to the sea.* to the nation, Mr. Wood tells us, was After having tried, without success, mis£16,000,- a very moderate sum, com- led by a passage of Strabo (xiv. 640), pared with the results achieved. In an excavations about a stadium from the city, appendix he has given a considerable | (p. 21), the author was led to consider the number of the principal Greek inscriptions, account of Philostratus, that one Damiarestored, so far as at present conjectures nus, a rich Roman (in the time of Marcus have been available, and accompanied Aurelius), joined the temple to the city by with such translations as the time and a covered way extending six hundred feet opportunities of the various scholars to from the Magnesian Gate. "All that whom he referred them were able to fur- seemed to be necessary was to find the nish. The editing of these inscriptions Magnesian Gate, and to follow the road even in a tentative way has, necessarily, from it to the temple; but in studying the been a work of great labor, difficulty, and ground where the the Magnesian Gate was delay. This portion of the work is of likely to be, and looking thence outside such special interest to scholars who are the city, I could see no probable site for not always the wealthiest, that we almost the temple within even a few stadia of the regret the price of the volume, three gate, much less at the distance of one guineas, is necessarily so high. Let us stadium only, which appeared to be the hope either that, as in the case of Sir length of the stoa" (covered way, p. 21). Charles Fellows' "Lycia" and Layard's "It seemed that the portico of Damianus "Nineveh," a smaller and cheaper edition was only six hundred feet long, and that if will soon find its place on our railway I could find it, I had merely to follow it for book-stalls, and form a part of our popular that distance from the city, and I must literature, or that the inscriptions will be inevitably find the temenos" (precinct of edited separately, without the popular ad- the temple, p. 23). junct of a translation.

The site of the great Temple of Ephesus had long been completely lost, and Mr. Wood was convinced that "nothing short of a laborious and persevering course of tentative excavations would be likely to bring to light the remains of a building of which no sign remained above the present surface of the ground, and which had been hidden for so many centuries" (p. 17). He had read, and he shows that he had studied with care, all that ancient writers tell us about Ephesus and its renowned temple; but "their vague and apparently conflicting statements gave very little, if any, information on which he could depend." There is, indeed, the positive statement of Pliny,* and several other writers (quoted in pp. 18, 19), that

And so in the end it proved, though he had been mistaken as regards the distance. Mr. Wood's experienced eye "detected a long strip of land standing several feet above the general level of the plain between the city and the sea. At the western end of this strip an open space is reached, which would have been of all others the best possible site for the temple. There it would have been a most conspicuous and beautiful object from nearly every house in the city, as well as from the suburbs and from the sea" (p. 23).

For a long time, and after repeated excavations, the portico of Damianus remained undiscovered. Much money had been spent, and a less sanguine explorer would have given up the search as hopeless.

Pliny, N. H. ii. 85: "Ephesi quondam ædem N. H. xxxvi. 14, § 95: "In solo id palustri fecere, Dianæ adluebat (mare)." But Mr. Wood shows that ne terræ motus sentiret aut hiatus timeret." the ancient coast-line has not been much altered (p. 4).

At length Mr. Wood came upon an | suspended work, and continuing to open inscription which "speaks of the proces- up the road leading around Mount Coression of images from the temple to the sus towards Ayasalouk" (a Turkish village theatre as passing in through the Magne- on a height quite close, as it afterwards sian Gate, and as passing out, on its return proved, to the temple). The continuous to the temple, through the Coressian line of stone piers of the portico, together Gate." "The intention," he shrewdly with the discovery of many sarcophagi, adds, "was evidently to make as complete encouraged him to proceed. At length he a circuit as would enable the inhabitants reached, at a distance of twenty-six hunof the city generally to see the images as dred feet from the Magnesian Gate, what they passed along." The Coressian Gate, he had every reason to believe were the he inferred, must have been that at the foundations of the sepulchre of Androclus, foot of Mount Coressus, which had hith- which Pausanias says * was in his time erto wrongly been called Prion (the saw, to be seen "in the road which led from sierra, or serrated ridge), while Prion had the Temple of Artemis to the Temple of usurped the name of Coressus in the En-Jupiter Olympius and the gate called glish Admiralty Chart.†

All this led to the discovery of the true clue, by following which the temple was at last reached. "Having found the Magnesian and Coressian Gates," Mr. Wood "set as many men to work as he could spare from the great theatre to open up the roads leading from these gates outside the city." Guided by a statement of Philostratus, that there was a descent (kú@odos) where the portico or covered road of Damianus commenced from the Magnesian Gate, he had explored five hundred yards of the road, when he came upon the stone piers of a portico which must have been that of Damianus (p. 117). He now perceived that the portico had extended much further, whereas hitherto he had trusted to the statement of Philostratus that it extended for a stadium, or six hundred feet. He now "concluded that this portico was of great length, and that the six hundred feet of it mentioned by Philostratus as having been built of stone, was of a more ornate character than the remainder."

Nothing, however, was now to be done but to follow the clue steadily. Reinforced both in health and pecuniary supplies, Mr. Wood recommenced the excavations, which had been for some time abandoned, "beginning from the point where he had

Page 80, Appendix. Inscriptions from the Great

Theatre, p. 33. The Greek words are, "From the
Magnesian as far as the Coressian Gate."

+ Page 81. We may here observe that Pausanias (vii. 5, 10) calls it Pion, and in Pliny, N. Η. v. 15, the best edition (the Teubner text) gives "monte Pione." The mountains are wrongly marked in Dr. Smith's **Dictionary of Geography," Art. Ephesus.

Magnesian." We may easily judge of the labor and the cost of the work, when we are told that "the average depth of the excavation along the road traced from the Magnesian Gate was about twelve feet " (p. 128).

We may here remark on a fact or coincidence of great interest, that the few lines penned by a little-read and late Greek writer, Philostratus † (circ. A.D. 200), have borne a fruit which he little dreamed of when he wrote them. But for the mention of this roadway or portico, the site of the great temple would, in all probability, have remained undiscovered to this day, and perhaps for all time. Nor can we omit the just praise due to the explorer for his great sagacity in making use of the scanty documentary evidence, that of Pausanias included, which guided him to his great discovery. He was full of fear, he says (p. 128), that if he did not succeed during the season of 1868-9 in finding some more satisfactory clue to the exact site of the temple than a mere road, however promising he might think it, he should not obtain another grant, and that thus for want of funds he might be obliged to abandon the excavations. This fear of failure, he adds, cost him many a pang; for as he looked over the smooth plain of Ephesus, with its gentle uninterrupted decline towards the sea, not a mound was to be seen that

vii. 2, 9: καὶ ἐς ἐμὲ ἔτι τὸ μνῆμα κατὰ τὴν ὁδὸν τὴν ἐκ τοῦ ἱεροῦ παρὰ τὸ Ὀλυμπιείον καὶ ἐπὶ Rúλaç Tùç Mayvηridas.

In his "Lives of the Sophists," ii. 23.

↑ Herodotus, ii. 10, compares the plain of Ephesus

might indicate the site of such a building | Mr. Wood returned to England, feeling as the Temple of Artemis.

The next step in advance was the discovery, six hundred feet beyond the sepulchre of Androclus, of an ancient pathway turning towards the west side of the city. This road proved wider than that hitherto opened from the Magnesian Gate; and it was lined with marble sarcophagi, in itself an omen of success, since these seemed to indicate a via sacra in the direction of the temple. Suddenly, however, he found himself stopped by land sown with corn, then nearly at its full growth. Availing himself of a modern boundary between two fields, he traced its course for more than half a mile, to a clump of olives where he had before sunk a trial-hole without success. Then occurred another vexatious delay, from official jealousy or avarice, and this again necessitated another journey to Constantinople. At length Mr. Wood found, by sinking trenches near the spot mentioned, a thick wall built with large blocks of stone and marble, which he hoped would prove to be the wall of the sacred precinct.

convinced that the site of the temple was now, as it were, in his grasp.

The first symptom of nearing the temple was the occurrence of brick walls and thin marble pavements. Still the longed-for treasure remained hidden, although foundations of Roman buildings and mosaic pavements were often found in the trialholes. Mr. Wood never lost his confidence that the temple "must be near at hand ; " but again his progress was stopped by the occupiers of land, who demanded exorbitant sums for damaged crops, etc. One man claimed £50, and ultimately accepted £3. "On the last day of the year 1869" (surely a memorable day in the annals of archæology)" the marble pavement of the temple, so long lost, so long sought for, and so long almost despaired of, was at last actually found, at the depth of nearly twenty feet below the present surface of the ground." One of the workmen had struck upon a thick pavement of white marble— the first thick pavement that had been found within the precincts and Mr. Wood at once We must here interrupt the narrative to concluded that it must be that of the temremark how richly rewarded has been the ple. It proved eventually to be that of judicious liberality of the trustees of the the last temple except two. The great British Museum. Once more, and seem. depth of soil covering the pavements ingly for the last time, they had supplied (though it is not greater than that of Mr. Wood with the necessary funds. "It modern London above the level of many will be seen," he exclaims, "what a nar- Roman pavements that have been found row escape we had of losing the prize in the digging of sewers and foundations) which ultimately rewarded our persever- "is accounted for by the silting up of the ance" (p. 131). Most fortunately an- site by the mountain streams, which still other trench hit just upon the angle-wall bring down an immense quantity of detriof the enclosure (peribolus), where two tus from the mountains" (p. 156). The inscriptions were found, stating that the law, so to call a fact which seems univerwall had been built by order of Augus- sal, of the accretion of soil does not aptus, and was to be paid for and main-pear to have been fully investigated. tained out of the revenues of the Arte- Though due to many causes, the result is misium and Augusteum.* There could always the same, the ancient sites are be no doubt that this was the peribolus far below the cities now standing, and wall. Thus "the great question as to the very often, as recently at Hissarlik, the whereabouts of the temple was now de- supposed Troy, a succession of them has cided," after six years had elapsed since been found at different levels. In cities the search was begun. And yet so of large area and ancient foundation, like good a steward of the public money was Jerusalem, Babylon, and Nineveh, all the Mr. Wood-it was found that up to this really old work has been found to lie at a point the whole cost had not exceeded great depth. In great part this is due to £2,000 (p. 133). After exploring the wall destruction by fire, but in the course of in each direction, from the angle thus for- centuries rubbish and dust have so raised tunately found, for many hundreds of feet, the ground that many of the old houses and churches now existing stand some feet below the present street-level.

with the low land in Lower Egypt, and rightly regards both as having once been a gulf of the sea. All bays into which rivers are discharged have a tendency, as every geologist knows, to become filled up in the course of ages. The pavement of the temple was not less than twenty feet below the present level.

See Appendix. Inscriptions from the Peribolus,

No. 1.

The first great discovery of actual ruins was that of" half-a-dozen large drums of the columns themselves, which had fallen upon one of the outer piers on the south flank of the temple, and had been caught