370 A JAPANESE TUSSAUD. to welcome a man who repents and endeavours to reform; the other is pleased when children are born who will become good men.' These are certainly excellent sentiments on the part of the amiable demons, but anybody who had not been told their real character would certainly, from their expression and appearance, have predicted qualities of the very opposite description. Straw sandals are hung in dozens on the railings in front as votive offerings from those who wish the deity to defend their steps: and around the neighbourhood of the temple is a scene of constant crowding and bustle as in a fair. Shops and stalls full of toys and pretty things to be carried off by the many pilgrims, combine with places where food is bought for sacred pigeons and for an Albino pony devoted to Kuanon; together with shows, amusements of all descriptions, a circus, a theatre, a pagoda, other smaller shrines, and places for bodily refreshment. The variety of colours and costumes, the bustling gaiety of the people, the banners, scrolls, music and laughter, all under a most brilliant and glorious sunshine, made one of the liveliest sights that can be imagined. One of the shows we visited was a very remarkable exhibition. It is a collection of life-size figures representing thirty or forty of the most famous miracles of the merciful Kuanon. The execution is perfectly marvellous, and in form and expression far surpasses anything of the kind that I ever saw. The modelling of a hand, or the animation of a countenance, was so skilfully rendered that it was difficult to believe that some of the figures were not alive. The arrangement was curious: we had to follow a zigzag path among the various separate groups, so that CURE FOR A HEADACHE. only one or two could be seen at a time. 371 There was in genuity in this form of construction, for it enabled several successive showmen to appear suddenly from round unseen corners and demand more quarter-boos, though I believe we had paid on entrance the sum that entitled us to see the whole. They saw that we were too much interested in the affair to turn back upon a question of pennies; and, after all, they don't very often get such a good chance of spoiling the foreigner. The first tableau represents the staying of a plague by drawing out the image of Kuanon; and I must mention two or three of the remainder as samples of this curious collection. In one, a pious damsel, who worshipped Kuanon, never killed any animals, and saved the life of a crab which a man was going to kill; afterwards a snake, transformed into human shape, came to seize her; but a multitude of grateful crabs appeared and rescued her, by order of Kuanon. One of the drollest groups represented a man suffering grievously from headache, who is directed to the spot where the skull which belonged to his body in a previous state of existence is being split open by the root of a tree growing through the socket of the eye. On removing it, he is relieved from his headache. In another, a holy man buys and sets free a tortoise which was going to be killed and eaten. Three days afterwards his child falls overboard, and is apparently lost, but after awhile returns safely on the back of the grateful creature. Another represents a worshipper of Kuanon who is wounded by robbers, thrown into the river, and accidently brought up in a fisherman's net. Having an image of the good Kuanon in his bosom, he is resuscitated, and lives to bless 372 his preserver. SAVED FROM THE FISHES. Wonderful Wonderful escapes are provided for holy women, pious woodcutters, and other devotees of Kuanon, but I hope I have said enough to prove that there is a very admirable and curious exhibition awaiting a visitor to Asakusa, which, being interpreted, is the 'Morning Grass.' Departure from Yokohama - Waterfall at Hiogo-The Inland Sea-Countless Fishing-boats-Straits of Simonosaki-The Cathedral Rock-NagasakiCruel method of Coaling a Ship-Farewell to Japan-A Japanese Pilot— His Powers of Drinking-Arrival at Shanghae-Chinese Heat at Midsummer A Boat at Midnight-Voyage to Hong Kong, and View of Formosa— Flora of Hong Kong-The 'Happy Valley '-Fresh Ferns-Crossing the Island to Little Hong Kong-A Hot Beach-Wild Pine-apples-Lychees and Mangosteens-Expected Typhoon-Visit to Canton-Chinese GardensCatastrophe of 'The Spark.' AT LENGTH THE DAY CAME when it was necessary to pack up our baggage and prepare to say farewell to the pleasant life of Japan and to the good friends who had made it doubly delightful. On June 18 we started in the American steamer Costa Rica' to go through the Inland Sea of Japan to Shanghae in China. The so-called Inland Sea is, in fact, a long and tortuous strait, separating the main island of Niphon from the smaller southern islands of Sikok and Kinsin, much in the same way as the Straits of Magellan separate Patagonia from Tierra del Fuego, and extending for about the same distance of, roughly speaking, 300 miles. We started with a very fresh breeze against us, and, when fairly outside the Bay of Yeddo, we encountered half a gale of wind and a heavy head sea, which made the great hull of the Costa Rica' dance in a lively 374 WATERFALL AT HIOGO. manner. The wind continued all the next day, accompanied by a hot and steamy vapour, which obscured the land and made things in general very uncomfortable. We reached Hiogo at night, seventeen hours behind time in a voyage which ought only to require thirty-six hours in all. Torrents of rain were falling, but next morning after breakfast the weather mended, and we went on shore to see what could be seen in a few hours. The appearance of Hiogo from the sea is far more attractive than that of Yokohama. It is backed by beautiful hills, rising one above the other, and looking like rich green velvet. The town has the advantage of irregularity in form, and is immensely beautified by clumps of ancient fir-trees and cedars scattered about among the best quarters. A very strong sea-wall had been lately completed, a typhoon having carried away everything before it about three years previously. We at once took ginrikishas and rode about a mile to the base of the hills, whence we walked by pretty winding paths to see a very interesting and beautifully-situated waterfall of about 100 feet in height. The heavy rains had filled it to perfection, but had also done great mischief, breaking up the paths and washing away a small tea-house near the bottom of the fall. Here we found singularly perfect specimens of the Maidenhair fern, in conjunction with Onychium japonicum, in great abundance, near to a pond which was exquisitely ornamented with many kinds of blue and white Iris. An upper path led to near the top of the fall, in front of which we enjoyed an hour's contemplation of the scene from the shade of a comfortable tea-house placed so as to cominand the best view. The water plunging down over |