in Great Britain. It is shipped with despatch from BIRKEN-R and Manufacturers of Agricultural Implements, Ips

(on Cook and Wheatstone's principle) to the South-Eastern HARRISON, AINSLIE, & CO., Newland Fur

NEEDLEWORK.

Ir is of the first importance to a nation that its requirements should be thoroughly understood; and every stride made towards better government is effected by a new ray of light having penetrated the darkness which originally covered the face of the whole earth. The more civilized a nation becomes, the more diversified are its legislative wants; and that which may with safety be left to adjust itself in the infancy of society, becomes, at a more advanced period, a paramount consideration. This is precisely the case with Needlework at the present day; it is impossible to overrate its importance. Even the boon of a thoroughly satisfactory poor-law must dwindle into comparative insignificance beside an arrangement whereby tens of thousands of paupers would be enabled to maintain themselves without taking one shilling out of the pockets of the public. Class legislation is a word of retort in the mouths of all parties; but when one class seizes upon the labour of its inferior, and, through the overpowering agency of capital, buys up an extensive branch of native remunerative industry, turning tens of thousands of able-bodied and highly artistical producers into poverty-stricken paupers,-when the monopolised trade, far from flourishing under the talismanic influence of capital, yearly deteriorates through the waning energies of the producers,-when the public is robbed by the substitution of an inferior article on demand, and victimised in the shape of poor's-rates to make up for the inadequate wages given to the producers,—when this gigantic evil has entrenched itself, like the wolf in the story of Red Riding Hood, in the very inmost chambers of the houses of the British public,-and whilst the wives and daughters of the land are gathering the flowers that bedeck the pathway of life, the monster is lying carefully concealed under the mantles of fashion upon the beds of indolence, ready to spring forth at an unexpected time and devour the luxurious triflers. Surely it is well to warn the public against the dangerous pet they are fostering in their dwellings; and, however timid the Legislature may be of encountering the insidious foe, every one may hunt it out of their own houses. I believe that the most pressing necessity of this country at the present crisis lies in a satisfactory solution of the problem, How we are to provide work that will afford wholesome food, clothing, and shelter for our increasing population, and yet enable us to compete in the market with our less scrupulous-because less enlightened— neighbours of the world, who are favoured with a better climate? I believe that that which we are advocating for Plain Needlework, viz. the shaking off of unnecessary clogs in the form of investment of capital, or the undue interference of the capital in gold with the capital in time and sinews, lies at the root of the whole matter; but in trades where the assistance of capital is essential, to prevent its present despotism without prostrating its energies is one of the gravest subjects a nation ever had to deal with; yet it must be handled sooner or later. Justice to the capitalist, justice to the producer, and justice to the consumer, can alone sweep away from our entire trade the disgrace of the slop system, and banish the cry of starvation from the land. Are our capitalists so honest that not one law needs to cumber the statute-book, providing for the fair remuneration of time? We have laws against usury; and can no usury in labour be wrung from the starving operative? When we hear of a great West or East End House retiring from business with its £100,000 cleared in a few years, it would look well if we heard of some fifty out of the thousand producers of that wealth who were also retiring with a modest competency; but I believe that, could we trace them, we should oftener learn that hundreds of the producers of that wealth have died, or are dying, in the work house. Happily for Plain Needlework it has no need of the aid of capital, and it depends on the will of the public to emancipate it from its bondage without legislative interference. To accomplish this end A Plan for Registration Offices for Needlewomen is submitted, the intention of which is to improve their condition and prevent their pauperism by securing to them the profits of their own work. The plan promises the consumer a superior article for his money, and to enable' men, without any previous knowledge of the trade, to procure their garments as easily, and with as much economy, as experienced females can do. It also proposes to afford every facility to families in finding suitable needlewomen, either to work by the day or by the piece, and securing them against loss by damaged work or nonfitting garments. The expenses of Registration to be defrayed for the first year by subscription. After the public has placed confidence in the Society it will require no pecuniary aid.

The Registration-Book.

To contain the names of Needlewomen alphabetically arranged-their ages, residence, and characters, as attested by the police and others-their qualifications, and whether they are cutters or not. Thus :

Wherein every house in town is invited to enter their patterns of materials, with prices and widths affixed.

Book of Fashions and Price of Work.

Showing the most approved cuts of garments in general use; and these, being
distinct for all cutters to follow without difficulty. To each draw
making the garment.

It is evident that, knowing the quantity of material, the price per yard, and the cost of making, any one with common sense can arrive at the correct estimate of the just price of their garment, without any previous knowledge of the trade.

Estimate of the Expenses of a Registration Office.

Cutters would have no salaries, but be entitled to a fixed drawback from the price of the work.

When a lady wants a needlewoman, she can suit herself with one from the office without trouble, whether she desires her to cut out the garment or merely to make it,-whether she wishes her to purchase materials or to make them up. She can get a fine needlewoman at four shillings per shirt, or one to do coarse work at one shilling. She can get a trustworthy character; or, if she is willing to run the risk for a hitherto more unsteady fellow-creature, she can give her fewer things at a time and make the Christian experiment. But gentlemen want shirts, and they don't know what stuff they should be made of; they know that the one they have on-a cotton shirt, linen necks and wrists, cambric fronts-cost ten shillings and sixpence at a fashionable shop. The clerk hands the book of patterns; the matron matches the fabric-asks the gentleman's height says, "Sir, I see by the Calculation-book, to which you can refer yourself (the clerk hands it), your shirt ought to cost so and so, because it takes so and so; have you any preference for a particular needlewoman?" Yes. No. "Miss Bodkin will do them well; she is unemployed." A stamp sends Miss Bodkin notice; she repays it on being paid for the work. Along with the shirts, when finished, Miss Bodkin must hand the shop bill (paid) and her own. The gentleman, when he gives the order, deposits the money for the materials. When he gets home his shirts he pays Miss Bodkin, who signs a discharge. The gentleman may fairly be said, on the transaction, to save twenty per cent. If he bought shirts formerly of a fashionable shop at 10s. 6d., he will now certainly get a superior article for 8s. 6d., and, withal, have the satisfaction of improving the condition of the fiftieth part of our population. Supposing the books do not exhibit a trustworthy Miss Bodkin unemployed, Miss Scissors (the cutter up stairs) takes the job in hand, buys the cloth, cuts out the shirts, and subtracts what the Calculation-book allows her for her time from Polly Flighty's pay who does the work.

If the shirts do not fit, the matron passes her opinion upon the alterations required, and the needlewoman must do them. Some work may even be returned altogether for gross mistakes. This must be submitted to the Committee, who decide to what extent the mistake is to lower the recommendations of the worker; but in no case can more than one penny per shilling be subtracted from future wages for a fault of this nature. The Society must in all cases instantly remunerate the loser; but if needlework is lost or burnt, the culprit must refund it. Supposing gentlemen do not choose to come to the office to try on their shirts, a man will be sent to see them on in the mornings or evenings; but the gentleman must pay his time extra-only, he does not pay for the alteration. If a person wants six dozen shirts for an outfit, and he cannot wait more than a certain number of days, the clerk and matron must divide the shirts amongst all the hands for that class of work; and if these prove too few, the better hands whose work in hand is not pushed for must take them, whether they like it or not, to keep up the credit of the establishment. In all such cases the clerk and matron must be cautious of forcing work, and it must be reported to the Committee, and entered in the books. It is obvious the establishment is meant only to suit cash payments, and cannot speculate; but it may undertake export orders, the cloth or price being deposited, if the payment suits the Calculation-book. It is impossible, in the limited space which a page of a Catalogue affords, to enlarge upon the benefits of this system. The aim of introducing the subject here is to give it as much publicity as possible, and, by directing general attention to a plain and practicable scheme, to endeavour to secure the blessing of independence for those who live by their Needle, and who form the most numerous Producing Class in every Civilized Nation.

BELGRAVIA REPOSITORY

FOR

ENGLISH AND FOREIGN FANCY GOODS.

JEWELLERY, Buhl Enamel Goods, Desks, Work

Boxes, Writing Cases, Smelling Bottles, Knives, Scissors, Baskets, Chessmen, Fans, Souvenirs, Purses, Stationery, Papier Maché Goods; Morocco, Walnut, and Ebony Envelope Cases and Blotters; Ladies' Companions and Necessaires, Gold and Silver Pencil Cases, Jet Bracelets, Brooches, &c. Also an extensive Assortment of

Superior English and Foreign Toys, Including Rocking Horses, Baby Houses, Wax Model Dolls, Mechanical Toys, Games, Dissected Puzzles, Children's Books, Water Colours, &c. &c. At

MILLER'S REPOSITORY,

32, Lowndes-street, Belgrave-square,

Within ten minutes' walk of THE EXHIBITION, [146

[1 250 GREAT WESTERN FURNITURE WAREHOUSES.

J. DENT & Co.,

Cabinet-makers, Carpet & Bedding Manufacturers, Decorators, and General Furnishing Warehousemen, 30, 31, 32, and 99, CRAWFORD-STREET, BRYANSTONE-SQUARE, MARYLEBONE.

SUBSTANTIAL NEW AND SECONDHAND

FURNITUR E.-Every one in search of really good and cheap Furniture would do well, before purchasing elsewhere, to visit the unequalled spacious GREAT WESTERN FURNITURE WAREHOUSES, by very far the most extensive in the Metropolis (the smallest of which being upwards of 300 feet in length). The proprietors, relying upon a reputation acquired during a period of 25 years, confidently invite the attention of the public to their immense Superior Stock of Cabinet Furniture, Carpets, Upholstery, and Bedding, the whole of which is manufactured of the best seasoned materials, by first-rate workmen, and at one-third the prices usually charged at the west end of the town. Every article is warranted, the price marked in plain figures, and will be exchanged or money returned if not approved of. [1288

worly every town of the United Kingdom. The PATENT A CABINET with SECRETARY and SECRET

:

PRIEST'S

EXTENSIVE FURNITURE MART,

Nos. 1 & 2, TUDOR-STREET, WATER-STREET, BRIDGE-STREET, BLACKFRIARS, LONDON. (See ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE.)

W. PRIEST begs to invite the attention of the numerous visitors to this country and its public in general to his extensive assemblage of Office, Library, and Household Furniture, his being the largest establishment of the kind in this kingdom, where may be found every article suited for the Office, the Study, or the Board-Room. Fire-proof Safes, Doors, &c. Also the greatest assortment of Household Furniture suited to either the Mansion or the Cottage.

[1109

MESSRS. T. HOLLAND & Co.,

SOLE

LANGHAM FACTORY,

GODALMING, SURREY,

OLE PATENTEES of FLEECY HOSIERY, so highly recommended by the most eminent physicians, as an article pre-eminently calculated for underclothing, whether in cold countries, or in the uncertain climate of Great Britain.

Original Inventors of LADIES' DRESSES and WAISTCOATS; also of GENTLEMEN'S PANTALOONS and DRAWERS, shaped from the frame.

Manufacturers of every article of Ladies' and Gentlemen's Under-clothing, whether in Fleecy, Segovia, Worsted, Lamb's-wool, Cotton, &c. &c., adapted for wear in every climate.

N.B.-Articles of the above manufacture sold by the principal Wholesale Houses in the City only; and retailed by all respectable Hosiers in all parts.

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