CONTENTS.-No. 242. NOTES:- An Afternoon at Jervaulx Abbey in Wensley- 1 REPLIES: Russel of Strensham: Cokesey, 129 - John Thos. Joseph Warton. Without endorsing the idea of quaint old Fuller, that because Yorkshire is the largest it is therefore the best county in England, few would deny that at any rate it is one of the most interesting, possessing as it does such cathedrals as York, Beverley, and Ripon; battle-fields like Towton, Marston Moor, and Wakefield; abbeys like Fountains, Rievaulx, and Bolton. Let me now describe a few hours spent at a Yorkshire abbey, comparatively speaking, not so well known as these, but in some points of interest yielding to none. Recently I had been spending a few days in Wensleydale-a district of Yorkshire as rich in fine scenery as in objects of antiquarian interest and leaving the romantically situated town of Middleham, went to explore the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Jervaulx, primarily called Yorevalle from its situation on the banks of the Eure or Yore. The afternoon was lovely; the sunshine streaming down, the blue sky mantling overhead "All sweets below, and all sunny above, O there's nothing in life like making love, 66 After walking a mile along the dusty highroad to Cover Bridge Inn, a gate at the side of the bridge leads to a path running along the side of the river Eure; and pleasant it was to get again into the green fields. There was a landscape of exquisitely Arcadian beauty. On the left hand flowed the rippling river, sometimes babbling over stores, at another settling into the quiet still pool, where the trout kept rising. The insect world was on the wing, making what Virgil would have "-the butterflies and dragoncalled a susurrus flies glanced across the sunbeams, and the leaves of the trees were stirred by the breeze. The kingfisher flew across the river, and at intervals was heard the call of the partridge and the cooing The cattle were cooling of the wood-pigeon. themselves in the stream, which seemed to afford a very enviable "frigus amabile." There was an indescribable charm in such a prospect as this: for around was a landscape of English scenery such as Gainsborough and Hofland would have delighted to paint, and Cowper and Wordsworth have loved to describe. Resting briefly, "sub tegmine fagi," and thinking with Horace (happiest of poets) how pleasant it was thus, "partem solido demere de die," the walk along the river's bank was continued for about two miles, and soon the gateway of JerThis abbey was founded vaulx Abbey is seen. primarily at Fors near Askrigg in Wensleydale, by Acharius Fitz Bardolph, about 1144; but the monks finding that situation too cold and bleak removed to this place in 1156, selecting a site beautifully sheltered on the banks of the Eure, and surrounded by rich pastures. This, like the other Yorkshire abbeys of Fountains and Rievaulx, belonged to "Taken aside," as it were, the monks of the Cistercian order, and here they reared a noble pile. "from the multitude," they were separated from the world, and held converse with the things unseen. There they devoted themselves to the service of God, and to a life of prayer and praise. For nearly four hundred years there continued to rise the pealing anthem and the loud hosanna from the choir of Jervaulx. On entering the ruin the fine lines of Wordsworth occurred to my mind, said to have been inscribed in Latin in a conspicuous position on the wall of every Cistercian abbey :— "Here man more purely lives, less oft doth fall, More promptly rises, walks with stricter heed, More safely rests, dies happier, is freed Earlier from cleansing fires, and gains withal A brighter crown. On yon Cistercian wall That confident assurance may be read." But at the present moment, instead of the smoke of incense ascending, there arises the sweet smell of summer flowers; and instead of the hymns, "Jam lucis orto sidere" and "Ales diei nuncius," the song of the linnet and thrush welcomes the morn. Jervaulx flourished, and its possessions increased, until Henry VIII. laid his rapacious hands on the greater monasteries of England, and it, like others, surrendered in 1538. The gross income of the abbey was then 455l. 10s. 5d.; the nett 2341. 188. 5d. The last abbot was Adam Sedbergh, probably so called from the place of his birth (a small town in North Yorkshire), who, for the share he had taken in the Pilgrimage of Grace, and for his denial of the King's supremacy, was executed at Tyburn in 1537. A carving by his own hand is yet to be seen in the Tower of London, where he was imprisoned prior to his execution; and a fine screen now in Aysgarth Church, the largest ecclesiastical structure in Wensleydale, was most probably, from the initials A. S. inscribed upon it, originally erected by him either there, or removed from Jervaulx Abbey. At the Dissolution the leaden roof was stripped from the Abbey, and so completely was it buried that only a few arches and green mounds indicated its position. Of it might well be said, "Deus venerunt gentes in hæreditatem tuam: polluerunt templum sanctum tuum: posuerunt Hierusalem in pomorum custodiam." This con tinued until 1807, when the ruins were cleared out by order of the proprietor, the Earl of Ailesbury, so that the site of the different conventual buildings can now be clearly traced. The church has been a noble building, measuring 270 feet in length, and in it is a fine collection of sepulchral slabs, once covering the remains of the abbots. Round the edges of a very fine one, on which is incised a beautiful floriated cross, with a chalice and consecrated wafer, is cut:"AYSKARTHI CONTEGITUR SAXI HAC SUB MOLE BRIANUS CUI DEUS ETERNA DET BENE LUCE FRUI." The site of the high altar is clearly marked out, and at its east end is the chapel of Our Lady, very much resembling the Chapel of the Nine Altars at Durham Cathedral, and a similar structure at Fountains Abbey. In front of it was buried, in 1424, Henry Lord Fitzhugh, who attended King Henry V. in his French campaign, who made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and fought against the Turks and Saracens. By his side rests his lady Elizabeth Gray, heiress of the Marmions of Tanfield, who desired to be buried before the high altar. By her will, twenty-four torches were to burn round the hearse, and fifteen tapers, each a pound in weight, before the high altar at Jervaulx. She left to her son Robert, who was destined to the bishopric of London, a psalter covered with red velvet, and a ring with a relic of St. Peter's finger. suring forty-eight feet by thirty-five, and has had The Chapter House has been a fine room, meaits roof supported by columns, and within its walls the slab of John de Kingston, the first abbot and some of the abbots found a sepulchre. Here is builder of Jervaulx, bearing this epitaph, inscribed more than seven hundred years ago : TUMBA : JOH’ES : P,M'MI: ABB'IS: IORVALLIS. On another TUMBA JOH'IS: OCTAVIS IOREVALL: DEFUNCTI, and several others. Seated on a broken pillar in the ruined Chapter House I indulged in a retrospect, and thought how, within the once hallowed walls of the abbey, the Cistercians had dwelt, regarding themselves as the stewards of God's bounties. How, in the Scriptorium, many a valuable manuscript had been transcribed, and the passional and breviary under cunning hands glowed with illumination. One brother, whose talent lay in that direction, had carved the crucifix for the high altar or the capitals of the pillars; another meditated over that most spiritual of books, the De Civitate Dei of St. Augustine. But then comes the time when the "ire of a despotic king rides forth upon destruction's wing " "Threats come which no submission may assuage, The tapers shall be quenched, the belfries mute, The gadding bramble hang her purple fruit." To the east of the Chapter House are the abbots" lodgings, and further on the great kitchen; its huge fireplaces still surrounded by fenders made of stone, and the marks of the fires are still visible at their backs. The arched places in the walls through which the smoking viands were handed to the Refectory may yet be seen, and close at hand is the Refectory-a noble room. The manner in which the Ruin is kept reflects the highest credit on the proprietor, the Marquis of Ailesbury. Jervaulx Abbey, indeed, does not possess the magnificent proportions of Fountains or the noble Choir, the distinguishing feature of Rievaulx, or the beautiful foreground of Bolton Priory, yet in some of its features it is second to none of the Yorkshire abbeys, and its fine collection of sepulchral slabs must ever render it attractive to the antiquary. The situation of it is sweet, and the surrounding scenery of great sylvan beauty. Close by, the lofty hill, Witton Fell, rears its head against the summer sky, and the silvery Eure 4th S. X. AUGUST 17, '72.] NOTES AND QUERIES. flows on as in days of old by Jervaulx, now abandoned to the owl and the bat, and no longer occupied by the monk and novice. But the day of "merrie England" has for ever gone when, as our Laureate says,— finest waterfalls in England, an unequalled place "Sometimes a troop of damsels glad, An abbot on an ambling pad; Sometimes a curly shepherd lad, Or long-hair'd page in crimson clad, Goes by to tower'd Camelot ; And sometimes thro' the mirror blue The knights come riding two and two." A last lingering look of regret was bestowed on the once famous Abbey, and my steps retraced by the same path along the river bank in the direction of Middleham, the towers of whose stately. Castle stood out proudly against the evening sky, tinted by the setting sun; though no longer does St. George's banner, broad and gay, spread its folds to the breeze on the Donjon Keep of Middleham, or the Bull, the ensign of the Nevilles, float on the wind. This was the abode of the Nevilles, one of the most ancient and powerful families in the North of England, and often the residence of the King-maker, the Earl of Warwick, the last of the barons. Of this Castle, one of our most distinguished modern novelists has said "the mighti- THE PRONUNCIATION OF INITIAL CL AND est peers, the most renowned knights gathered to his hall. Middleham, not Windsor nor Shene, nor Westminster nor the Tower, seemed the court of England." This Castle, too, was a favourite dwelling of the Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Richard III.), and within its walls was born and also died his youthful heir, Edward Plantagenet, Prince of Wales. Much obscurity enshrouds this point of English history; and one chronicler, + by mentioning his having "died an unhappy death," would As any air, likewise as fresh and sweet Faithful Shepherdess. And the lines of Ariosto are applicable to Wensleydale seem to indicate that it was caused either from an accident, or in some sudden or unexpected manner. This circumstance occurred in the month This has been but a sketch of one of the "Culte pianure, e delicati colli, Pickering, Yorkshire. GL IN ENGLISH. Webster is quoted both by Marsh (Lectures on the Eng. Lang. ed. Smith, Lond. 1862, p. 350), and by Max Müller (Lectures on the Science of Lang., 2nd Series, Lond., 1864, pp. 168, 169), as having stated in the edition of his large Eng. Dict., published in 18281, that "the letters cl answering to kl are pronounced as if written tl; pronounced dl; glory is pronounced dlory." Marsh clear, clean, are pronounced tlear, tlean. Gl is "extraordinary instance" of the "confusion" of looks upon these remarks of Webster's as an k=(c hard) and t; and Max Müller doubts "whether any one really says dlory instead of "that even with a well-mastered tongue and a glory", and adduces poor Webster as an instance 1 I have the edition by Goodrich and Porter, London, 1864, but I cannot discover these remarks upon the pronunciation of cl or gl. Nothing more is said than that c has the sound of k, and that g is hard before 1. 2 Max Müller can, perhaps, scarcely be accepted as a high authority with regard to the pronunciation of English. I feel pretty sure, from my knowledge of German, that cl and gl (and indeed all double consonants) are very distinctly enunciated in that language and the proper value given to each consonant; and Prof. Müller can We, in English, sometimes drop scarcely have abandoned this distinct enunciation in prolutely obliged to do so. nouncing English, excepting indeed where he was absoone letter of a double consonant, as in gnome, psalm, but this is not done in German, where the gn in Gnade, and the ps in Psalm, are pronounced almost as if written Genade being, however, much greater in Gnade. This introducand Pesalm (e as in French petit nearly=p'tit), the break tion of a short vowel or vowel sound is a fault, but cannot be avoided, as will be shown further on. well-disciplined ear there is some difficulty in distinguishing between guttural and dental contact." Upon reading these criticisms, I naturally proceeded to examine my own pronunciation of initial cl and gl, and I discovered to my great surprise that, as far at least as I myself was concerned, Webster was perfectly right, and that my habitual pronunciation of clear, clean, and glory was tlear, tlean, and dlory. I could, indeed, pronounce the c and g in these words as k and g hard, but it required an effort, and the difference, though quite perceptible, did not strike me as at all marked, and accordingly I have since, as before, continued to pronounce tl and dl, and I feel pretty sure that the great majority of Englishmen do as I do. Perhaps some of them will speak out in "N. & Q." But whatever may be the case with regard to English, there is no doubt whatever that in other languages cl and gl have proved a stumblingblock. Why else has the Lat. cl become chi in Italian, as in chiaro from clarus, &c.; and the Lat. gl become ghi, as in ghiaccio from glacies, &c.? Or why have the Spanish substituted ll, for both el and gl, as in llave (clavis), llande (glans), and the Portuguese ch for cl, as in chave (clavis) ? 3 An English lady who had spent some time in Italy told me (without any reference to this question) that she had noticed that the uneducated Italians frequently say Ingresi for Inglesi- no doubt because they unconsciously find gr easier to pronounce than gl. Diez (op. cit.) p. 199, gives 3 These are not the only changes which cl and gl have undergone in these three languages (see Diez, Gramm. d. roman. Sprachen, 2nd ed., 1st part, pp. 195-199); and tl, pl, bl, and fl, which to me seem very much easier to pronounce, have likewise commonly undergone change. The substitution of fi in Italian for the Lat. fl seems to me an argument in favour of the position which I have lately been contesting in "N. & Q." (see Index under "Realm") -that the Lat. I has never, as is commonly maintained, been changed into u in French, but that the 7 has dropped and the u been added. And here I have Diez with me, for he distinctly says (op. cit. p. 195) that in the Ital. fiamma, from flamma, the I does not seem to him to have been changed into i, but that i was first introduced, making fliamma, and that then the dropped. This is precisely the view I have been maintaining with regard to the French u, excepting that I do not maintain the u was always introduced before the dropped. And so again Diez, when discussing the Fr. faire from facere (ibid. p. 237), cannot decide whether the c has been changed (resolved, aufgelöst is the word he uses) into i, or whether the c has not first fallen out and then the i appeared, "facere, faere, faire." But, if I and c have fallen out and i has been introduced, why may not I have fallen out, and u been introduced? 4 During a recent excursion to Italy, made since this note was written, I have noticed the analogous substitution of er for cl. Near Venice there is an island, S. Clemente, and I noticed that my gondolier always called it S. Cremente. C (=k) and ghard and r are all gutturals (i. e. pronounced with the aid of the soft palate), and this is why cr and gr are easier to pronounce than cl and gl. See concluding remarks in text. instances of the change in Italian dialects, and also in Spanish and French, of 1, immediately preceded by a consonant, into r. Again, Max Müller himself allows (op. cit. p. 168) that the Hawaians substituté t for our k and that the lower classes of the French Canadians habitually confound t and k, and say mékier, moikié for métier and moitié; from which we see that if k cannot be, or is not easily pronounced, t is naturally substituted for it, and vice versa, even when there is not the additional difficulty of an immediately following. But the examples most nearly in accordance with Webster's statement I find in Diez, who (op. cit. p. 198) informs us that in the Lorraine dialect, diaice = Fr. glace, and diore=gloire, whilst tio= clou, and tiore clore-though here the has also undergone change or has disappeared, whilst in English, whatever the pronunciation may be, the spelling has not been altered. = Tl and dl would, so it seems to me, be easier to pronounce than cl and gl, because t, d, all belong to the same class (dentals), and therefore but a trifling change in the position of the vocal organs is required in passing from t or d to l. C(=k) and g hard, on the other hand, are gutturals, and the transition, therefore, from these letters to l (i. e. from guttural to dental contact) involves a very considerable change both in position and in organs, and this change gives rise to a perceptible hiatus, which is filled up by the ě (or Urvocal) sound mentioned in note 2 In tl and dl there is no doubt also an hiatus, but it is very much less perceptible. See Max Müller, op. cit. pp. 138-145. F. CHANCE. Sydenham Hill, A CENSUS OF 1789. On the death of the Rev. Dr. Bennet, late InNithsdale, all the documents in his possession concumbert of the parish of Closeburn in Upper We may compare our asked, very frequently pronounced ast (though here probably the k is dropped and not changed into t), and also the tum=come of young children. 6 When cl and gl occur at the end of a word (as they sometimes do), followed by e, e. g. in miracle, gargle, &e, the difficulty seems at first sight to have been got over in a different way-viz. by pronouncing as though the e (with the Urvocal sound, which it usually has when final. the u in but) were not at the end but between the two consonants. But of course there is no real transposition of the e; it is merely silent, and the Urvocal sound is introduced just as I have shown that it is and must be introduced more or less when these double consonants are initial (even when they are pronounced tl and dl). Only that, doubtless, the Urvocal is heard more distinctly at the end of a word when there are no more letters to follow, and that terminal cl and gl are, in English, never changed into tl and dl. These remarks apply also to terminal tl, dl, pl, bl, and fl, as in bottle, waddle, maple, table and muffle. 4th S. X. AUGUST 17, '72.] NOTES AND QUERIES. nected with the parish were placed in my hands, and in looking over them, I was much interested to find a census of the parish taken in 1789 by the Rev. Andrew Yorstoun, then minister of Closeburn. He had gone most minutely to work, inserting the names of all the parishioners to the number of 1460, specifying the religious sect to which each belonged, and marking those who were under six years of age. Is any other census of a parish in Great Britain, of so early a date, taken so systematically, known to any of your antiquarian correspondents? Of these 1460 then alive in 1789, I have discovered from my own personal knowledge, and assisted by a friend who has lived all his life in Close burn, that there are six still In 1789 I see that alive after eighty-three years. there were 142 under six years of age, and all these are dead except the six to whom I refer. There are four of the male and two of the female sex. Two of them have been farmers all their lives, one of them in a moorland farm under the Dukes of Queensberry and Buccleuch. Of the females, one was a farmer's wife, and the other was married to a labouring man. ages I may observe that Closeburn is a rural parish, a fair enough specimen of the kind of life led by the inhabitants in all the parishes in the South of Scotland. It is partly moorland and partly arable, so that, like many other parishes in this part of Scotland, there is a great mixture, and I think, therefore, that we may assume it, as I have said, to be a fair specimen of all. This census, then, of Mr. Yorstoun, shows that in such a parish we may calculate of 100 children, who are of different from birth to six years of age, but all being under six, there will be living at the end of the eighty third year 4 per cent. of the children. I know nothing of the per centage allowed by actuaries for 100 children at their eighty-third year. Perhaps some of your correspondents acquainted with this subject will tell us how many of 100 children ought to be alive after eighty-three years, and thus allow us to compare it with this deducOf course tion from the census of Mr. Yorstoun. I see that these 100 children of Mr. Yorstoun are partly selected lives, and how many are so we cannot tell, but no doubt the weak will have died off before they have reached their sixth year, to a certain extent, by the failure of nature. But notwithstanding this, I think that it is a curious subject for our consideration, and if we could find any other list somewhat of the same kind, it would be interesting to compare it. In regard to the population which was 1460 in 1789, it was 1612 by the census of 1871, showing the population to be nearly stationary, but in reality it is gradually receding, like all rural parishes in the South of Scotland, from a variety of causes which are well known, but cannot be enumerated in your pages. In regard to the number of Dissenters from the Established Church, I find that in 1789 there were 98, what Mr. Yorstoun calls Seceders, who were what is now known to us as United Presbyterians. Reformed Presbyterians, and lastly, 9 EpiscoThen there were 23 Cameronians, now known as palians, consisting of the family of the Rev. Dr. Stuart Menteath, rector of Barrowby in Lincolnshire, who had a few years before (1783) bought the estate of the historical family of Kirkpatricks. C. T. RAMAGE. The Dissenters from the Kirk were in all 130, and they continued much the same in number till the Secession in 1843. And dare me to the desert with thy sword; Macbeth, Act III. Sc. 4. 104. I am reluctant to add another to the many conjectural emendations of " inhabit," but I cannot help thinking that the key to the mystery is found if we suppose that the pronoun "it," referring to the "sword" of the previous line, has gone to restored thence. I would suggestmake the last syllable of "inhabit," and must be "If trembling I flinch at it, then, &c." If the letters f, 1, e were in any way illegible, a careless printer, by substituting b for t in "at, would most easily arrive at a word with which he might make shift. But other conjectures based and a better than this one may suggest itself to upon the same supposition, have occurred to me, some readers of "N. & Q.," to whom my theory of the absorbed "it" may still seem probable. Ib. Act III. Sc. 6, 7-10 "Men must not walk too late. Who cannot want the thought, how monstrous Here the negative in "cannot" is awkward with the present punctuation, and has to be explained away. I suggest that we should punctuate thus: "Men must not walk too late, Who cannot want the thought, how monstrous The note of interrogation after " father" belongs, a heresy with the printer of the first folio that I believe, to "how" and not to "who." It was "how," even when it expressed mere surprise, was followed by a note of interrogation. Thus in Winter's Tale, Act I. Sc. 2, the First Folio gives: "How sometimes Nature will betray its folly? It's tendernesse ? and make it selfe a Pastime To harder bosomes?" I should like to conclude this note with two instances of "cannot want" (in the same sense as |