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CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
-
Beauty of Corfu-Nuisances-Difficulty of Sleeping-Almost desirable
Coffins-The Social Lever-Peculiar Habits-Seclusion of Women-
Poverty restricts Sociability-Charity carried too far-Counts, genuine
and false-Imposture encouraged — A self-manufactured Count-A
matchless Rascal-A new Way of raising the Wind-Virtues of the
Ionian Ladies-Divorce too easy-Bad Examples in High Places-The
Wrath of Genius
PAGE
1
CHAPTER II.
Loss of Corfu will be greatly felt-Prince Alfred's Visit-The Duke of
Brabant-The Author of "Pelham"-Lord Elgin-The Empress of
Austria-The Emperor Francis Joseph-The Emperor at a Regimental
Parade The Empress of Austria in Venice-Visit of the Prince of
Wales-A grateful Palace Guest-English Colony, Male and Female,
denounced-Danger of rapid Elevation-Tribute of Respect to the Ge-
neral and Garrison-A quaint Revenge-It is an ill Wind that blows
Nobody Good-"Let us swear eternal Friendship"
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CHAPTER III.
I
Marriage of Priests discouraged-The Exarch-Monasteries, Churches,
Priests-A limited Morality-Protestant, Greek, and Roman Churches
-The Laymen for England, the Clergy for Russia-New Testament
little read-Visit to the Church of the Archangel-Reading of the New
Testament-Little Circulation of the Scriptures-A Priest shaved and
flogged by a British Resident-The Archbishop of Corfu-Religion and
Drunkenness-A pious Usurer-The Convent of San Gerasimo—A
Land-Jonah-How the Water rises in the Holy Well at Cephalonia
CHAPTER IV.
A candid French Author, and One the Reverse-The Latin Princes pro-
tected the Jews-Judas Iscariot the supposed Corfiot-Author's narrow
Escape of being taken for Judas-Venice grants the Jews Privileges-
Cruelty to them of the Greeks-Venetians denounce the Desecration of
Graves-Marshal Schulemberg befriends the Jews-Their numbers in
the Islands-Sir Charles Napier protects them-Their Treatment at
Zante-Accuracy always rare amongst Greeks-A self-deluded old Wo-
man-Peasant's Greek language-Magic-Lantern Lecture in Italian-
A Parricide-An Execution in Corfu-Reported Fate of the Execution
CHAPTER V.
The "magnanimous Cephalonians" of Homer-First at a Feast and last
at a Fight-Attractions of the Black Mountain-Beautiful and ex-
tensive View-Black Mountain rarely visited by Natives - Popula-
tion-Salt Water below the level of the Sea-Strangers reminded of
"Puss in Boots"-Sir Charles Napier - Cephalonian Society - An
Apostolical Archbishop-A Romantic Visit-Murder in High Life-A
sleepless Night-Use of Garlic, and neglect of Soap
CHAPTER VI.
Signor Focca, the Archivist-Proveditors-Making up for lost time-
Good Dinner due to bad Memory-Napier's summary Justice-Great
Extension of the Franchise-Lord Collingwood's Fleet, 1809-Depu-
tation sent to General Oswald-Unconciliating Conduct of Sir Hud-
son Lowe-A bragging Commander-An Englishman of few Words-
Major de Bosset, Governor of Cephalonia-The dying Beauty and her
wicked Brothers-in-Law-Rascal Notaries-A Land of Savages-De
Bosset's summary Justice-Illuminations for Count Caruso, and Sig-
nors Zervo and Montferrato in Cephalonia-A Cephalonian Picture-
Gallery
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII.
Nuisances of Cephalonia - Rest-destroying Boatmen-A Mishellenist—
Change of Habitation-Dogs, Bells, and Owls' Torments-Duration of
Bell-ringing restricted at Zante-Torture of Heretics-A terrible
Greek Christmas-An intolerable Peal - Philhellenism shaken by
Bells-Signor Lascarato's Reception on his Visit to us-Signora Las-
carato-Lascarato in Prison-His ill-timed Arguments-A brutal
Jailer-Conduct of the Warders-Protestant a term of reproach-A
disinterested Author-My visits to the Prison-Built by Sir C. Napier
-What would render a Greek Empire probable-The Hats-off Cus-
tom-Why some honest Ionians desired the Union-British Officer's
Stratagem for Seeing the Greek Ladies-The Hole in the Door-Lord
Byron-House of the Poet-Daughters at a discount-Wooing in Ce-
phalonia-A prudent Suitor-A Bridegroom knocked down to the
highest Bidder-Nationality not the greatest of Virtues-Universal
Philanthropy preferable - Prince Consort on the same Subject — A
similar imperial Idea.
CHAPTER VIII.
Flowers and Foliage-Wine Company unsuccessful-Unpopularity of
Cephalonia as a Station-Local Society without a Head-A too se-
cluded Ruler-A Wedding in High Life-Sugarplum Surfeit-Pri-
vileged Englishmen-The Marriage Ceremonies-" Let the Wife fear
her Husband". - Cephalonian Beauty - An unwonted Dance-How
Unionists were sometimes Manufactured-A too classical Partner in
the Dance-Visit of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales-H.S.H. the Prince
of Leiningen-A Crown refused by a Naval Captain-The Prince's
Ride-A Royal Dinner Party - The Mysteries of Cephalonia-The
Royal Departure-The Ionian Steamer and the Ionian Assembly-
The President of the Assembly-Offer of a Country-house-Begging
Boys-Count Roma, Mr. Stevens-Zante, second in Beauty only to
Corfu - The Pitch Wells-Luncheon of Grapes-Advantage of a
Knowledge of Greek-Superior Clubs of Zante-The Archives-The
Ghetto-First Visits made by Strangers-Count Lunzi's Country-house
-Appropriate Present to a John Bull-How the Greek War-office em-
ployed the Military Staff-" Hair Mattresses for Private Soldiers"-
The Resident and the Rizospast-Mr. Stevens' Mistake regarding the
Mills-Tempting Offer of a Passage to Athens-A Greek Regent of
British Descent - The Alfred Mania-Obstinacy of the Greeks-A
Rash Promise.
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CHAPTER IX.
EARTHQUAKES IN CEPHALONIA IN 1862-3.
Classical and Biblical Earthquakes - Former Shocks in the Ionian
Islands-Destruction of Fort St. George-My first Earthquake worthy
of the Name-Four Days of Shocks in one Week-The worst Shock
known for Years-Damage done-Saltatory Motion most dangerous-
Discouraging Friends-General's House shaken at Corfu-Barometer
no Guide-Extracts from my Journal-An unfulfilled Prophecy-The
second Shock, in Severity, of the Year Comparison of the two
greatest Earthquakes-The late Bishop of Gibraltar-Send my Family
home-My new Habitation safer—A violent but partial Hurricane—
British Soldiers fly for their Lives-Why Greeks have always built
strongly-Water, Fire, Wind, cause Earthquakes
CHAPTER X.
The Greek New Year-An exciting Tour of Visits—Unreasonable Com-
plaints of England-My strong Belief in the approaching Union-
Author requested to make an Address-Motives which actuated Him
to comply-"Hop o' my Thumb”-A successful Hit-My supposed
Speech printed at Athens-The true Speech - Greek Hospitality—
Projected Address to the Author-The English Honorary Members of
the new Club, the Kephellenia-A Greek Christening - Barbarous
Treatment of the Baby-Legal Necessity of the Custom-Festivities
in honour of the Royal Wedding-Dinner, and Illuminations-Cepha-
lonian Taste calumniated-A romantic Story-The Theatre-Modesty
at a Discount-The Prima Donna's principal Friend -An unchival-
rous Exploit-The Prince of Denmark to be King of Greece-Beauty
to the Rescue-A vainly wished-for Riot-Unfounded Rumours of
intended Disturbances -The Clubs and Illuminations Excellent
Behaviour of the Masses-Greeks not yet fit for Constitutional Go-
vernment-My Departure on the Greek Good Friday-The Address
from the Gentry-Reluctantly rejected Addresses
CHAPTER XI.
Once more in Corfu - Battle of Eggs in Lent- Military Sports-
Bishop Heber's Widow-A Murder in Corfu-Horse-race won by a
Greek-British Generosity-Sham Siege at Vido-An Exalted Wit
and Beauty-Foundling Hospital-Sail for Ithaca-Sappho's Leap-
Harbour of Vathy-Castle of Ulysses-A Descendant of the latter
Fountain of Arethusa-Ithaca a Land of Rocks and Goats-A wel-
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169
come Fountain-" What you please"-A beautiful Walk in Santa
Maura-The Right Man in the Right Place-The Resident of Santa
Maura-Mother versus Father-The Father of the R. C. Archbishop-
Knowledge of Greek betrayed by a Smile-Ascension Hill Festa-
A pretty Night Scene-Resolve to visit Athens-The indispensable
Agent of the British
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CHAPTER XII.
Strongly advised not to proceed to Athens-A discouraging Meeting—
Touch at Cephalonia-Put in at Zante-A queer Message-The Chief
Justice of Zante-Count Lunzi-A valuable Compliment-A valued
visiting Card-Frequent Assassinations in Zante-Missolonghi—One
of Otho's Colonels-Patras-H.M.S. Liffey-National Guards-Casino
-Find myself known at Patras-An imprudent Othoist-A "paunch
full of Otho"-My Health drunk as a Philhellene - Vostizza — A
charming Greek Lady-The Greek Women of Antiquity-Galaxidia
and Salona-A Walk more picturesque than safe-Corinth-Isthmus
-Kalamaki—A strange Scene-A cool Sergeant - Reappearance of
our fair Fellow-Traveller-Arrive at the Piræus-Athens under the
Provisional Government-Recovery of Stolen Property-The Par-
thenon-Palliation of the Earl of Elgin's Conduct-Amphitheatre of
Dionysius-My Guide at fault-Temples of Theseus and Jupiter Olym-
pus-Fine View from the Hotel Window-State of the Greek Army
-The House of Assembly-The ex-Queen's Farm-Russian Intrigues
-Intriguing for the sake of Practice-How triumphantly I might
have returned to Corfu-A popular Embassy - My Visit to Athens
fortunate-The Greeks should cherish their new King
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Corfu-Great Change of Opinions-Destruction of the Forti-
fications-The Ionian Money Contributions-The Demolitions com-
menced-Uncharitable Greek Wish-A needlessly lost Opportunity
-Four English Soldiers Drowned-A Sergeant hanged for Murder—
Removal of Guns and Military Stores-The best Explosion-Visit to
Pantaleone Pass-A Peasant Anti-Unionist-School of Lascarato-A
Prophet honoured at last in his own Country-The Archbishop loses
his Knockers-Proceedings of the thirteenth Parliament-Speech of
Aristotle Valaoriti-His Tribute to the "Good Inglis"-The Days of
Chivalry not over-The Lunette Battery, Vido-Destruction of the
Round Tower-The King signs, the Keep is blown up-Acquaintance
with Sir G. Marcoran-Paper-hunting-An Officer killed by an Olive-
tree-The last of the Paper Hunts-Retreat of his Highness the Pre-
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