of meeting with. Mr. Heithausen, either being, or imagining himself to be, a little indisposed, ordered a mess of water-gruel for his supper; but we chose something more substantial, which we considered as necessary after a fatiguing and busy day. We rallied him a good deal on account of his choice, which we supposed he would repent of when our's was brought in; and so it proved for the sight and smell of roast fowls and mutton-chops, induced him to lay aside his flimsy beverage, forget that his stomach was out of order, and make as hearty a meal as any of us. The people of the house carried their officiousness to serve and please us to a troublesome extreme; we wished to be left alone, but they would insist upon waiting at table, snuffing the candles, and making continual enquiries if this or that was done to our satisfaction. The hour of rest then drew on, and we found excellent beds. A few minutes' conversation after we had stretched out our weary bones, soon ended with wishing each other good night; and this reminds me of its being high time to wish you the same, or rather, I should say, farewell, for the present. Your's, &c.

*****

generally proves too powerful and comes off victorious, if I have not a companion, who, either by persuasion or by force, can get me out of bed. My friend Heithausen gez nerally effected this; and though he did not exactly take me by the heels, and pull me down upon the ground, yet he gave me no rest till I was up. I was sometimes secretly vexed with what I at such lazy periods thought a hurrying disposition, but, disguising it as well as I could, seemed to comply without reluctance; and before the day was past, I commonly saw the advantages we reaped from dispatch in the morning. As it was dark when we entered Ashburn, and we left it early the next day, I had no opportunity of viewing the town, therefore must omit giving you á description of it. We made a very hearty breakfast in the good Irish fashion, which is, besides tea, coffee, &c. to have some boiled eggs. It is very customary for people at the inns in England, to stare like conjurers when such a thing is called for in the morning; but that does not make it less serviceable. would advise all persons on the road, except such as have very squeamish stomachs, to try the experiment, and will be answerable for the good effects. Upon consulting together about our day's route, we found it necessary to relinquish our intended visit to Oak over, the seat of somebody or other, Esq.; no matter for his name, he has a very capital collection of paintings, one in particular of the Holy Family, for which the owner is said to have refused £3000. As this place is situated in a direction quite contrary to Dove-dale, to

I

are shewn a place where, 20 years: ago, a young gentleman and lady

which we were going, we should have sustained too great a loss of time, and have entirely disconcert-tumbled down. It is a very high, ed our plan, had we gone thither. steep hill, covered with rocks: they Accordingly we set off, and having wanted to distinguish themselves rode about a mile, parted with Mr. by riding where few ever ventured, Brown. Mr. Heithausen and I were but paid very dear for their temeonce more left alone, and directed rity; for, going too near the preour course towards Thorp, an in- cipice, the horses and riders both considerable village near the en- rolled down a considerable way. trance of Dove-dale. The poor over the rocks: they were stopped inhabitants find a principal part of by some bushes, and the former their support by being employed was taken up terribly bruised and as guides through the dale, or to shattered; he was conveyed to Ashcare for the horses, which, as there burn, where he expired the followis no possibility of riding through, ing night. The young lady recomust be taken round to a farm-vered, though she was also much house at the other extremity, where they are held in waiting till the owners arrive. We gave our's into the custody of a girl, and took an elderly woman with us as guide. On the left hand, just before you enter the dale, is Thorp-Cloud, a very large hill, in the form of a cone, which figure is peculiar to many of the hills in these parts. Dove-dale is an exception to an observation I have generally made, at least with respect to myself, that upon hearing or reading descriptions of places, fancy has represented them with such exaggerations, that, on seeing them afterwards, I have frequently been disappointed: but here I experienced the contrary, and found the scenery exceed any ideas or expectations I had formed concerning it. It differs from Middleton and Matlock Dales in this, that the rocks stand mostly detached from the sides of the hills, in many places formed like spires of church-stee-sage was interrupted by large rocks pics, and in others, into all manner of grotesque and fauciful shapes. Soon after entering the dale, you

bruised. It is impossible to view the place where those accidents happened, without sensations of horror, even from below; but certainly it must be doubly tremendous to look down, especially to those acquainted with the melancholy catastrophe. We had no reason to doubt the authenticity of the story, as its fabrication would answer little purpose; besides that, our guide informed us of the name and circumstances of the family to whom it happened. Having imagined, on giving our horses to be taken round, that there was no absolute necessity for it, but that we might have rode, or at least led them, through the dale, supposing that the road could hardly be worse than what we had traversed in going from Glossop to Castletown, we were now convinced of the total impracticability of any such thing; for we were frequently obliged to leave the river-side, where the pas

that hung over the water, and to climb the steep hill to get round. We found the walls of a building

as it encountered the different posi ions of the hills, increased and diainished in force with wonderfub variations. We climbed up a very steep ascent to an opening in a very large rock, called iteynard's Cave. You enter by a large arch into a place which you may easily fancy the inside of an old castle, espe

entrance down upon the river and objects below. Within the large one are several small caves, that run under the rocks in very singu lar forms, but to no great breadth. This was the most curious group of rocks amongst the whole, and it is, indeed, wonderful to see how

standing, which was formerly a stable belonging to Sir Wm. Fitzherbert, to whom the Derbyshire side of the dale belongs. He used frequently with a select party to penetrate so far with horses, but they were obliged, with much diffcuity, and hazard, to ride up the bed of the river. They brought refreshments of all kinds with them,cially when you look through the and dined amongst the rocks. This is customary with companies who choose to spend the whole day there. We regretted much that this was not in our power, as there were many inducements to loiter in the dale, if time would have allowed it. The river Dove, from which the valley takes its name, divides Der-nature sports in all manner of anbyshire and Staffordshire; on the Staffordshire side the hills are principally covered with wood. You are shewn a very large rock, called Dove-dale Church, from its bearing a rude resemblance to such an edifice, which has been dilapidated by time; it is mostly covered with ivy, and on one side there is a holdow in the rock from bottom to top, that may pass for the steeple.

At a great height we discovered a cave, with an arched entrance, which, on enquiry, we found to be Buttercake-Hall; but it was too thigh for us to visit, had there even been the prospect of a repast upon the article from which it derives its name. The entrance appeared so regularly arched, that I asked our guide whether art had not lent some assistance in its formation; but we were assured, that it was just as it pleased God to make it. We found the echo to be very astonishing, and on trying with a loud crack of the whip, were much entertained with a long successive rattle, which,

tique shapes. As we advanced, we came to a narrow pass between two high rocks, which just leave an opening for the current of the river: it is called Cheshire Leap. The rocks are much increased in grandeur of appearance, by being covered with ivy. In many places at the bottom of the dale, there are several flats of rich meadow, where some herds of cattle were fattening. Any person, upon looking round, would wonder how ever they got thither, as there seems no possible access, except for man, There were many sheep, but these keep on the declivities amongst the rocks, and feed upon the edge of the precipices as unconcernedly as if they were on a level pasture. Accidents sometimes happen, and they tumble down, which it is a wonder does not occur more frequently. Two old venerable goats, belonging to Sir William Fitzherbert, have their residence here, and live like hermits, roaming at large up and down the dale. We did not

of their having been once joined together, I paid particular attention, but could not discover ap. pearances in any part sufficiently striking to support the favourite hypothesis with many, that these rugged dales and mountains are not coeval with the creation, but have been formed since by some extraordinary revolution or convulsion

end of the dale, which is closed with two vast perpendicular rocks, that stand on each side of the dale,

see the long-bearded gentlemen, but it seems they are very sociable with strangers; for when our friend Harris was there, some days before us, they followed him the whole way, and seemed very desirous of cultivating an acquaintance with him. The many caverns with which Dove-dale abounds afford them very convenient retreats at night. I could not refrain from represent-in nature. We then reached the ing to myself the situation of a traveller, who, passing along in the dusk of the evening, should see one of these animals standing at the entrance of his cave, and seemingly defying the approach of any intruder. For my part, though I am not the most credulous person in the world respecting hobgoblins, apparitions, &c. yet, were I passing along at night, and without any previous expectation of seeing the goats, should discover one or both of them at the mouth of a gloomy cavern, I doubt not, that I should be much frightened.

We passed by a number of rocks, called Sugar-Loaves, from their resemblance to them in shape. They stand on the mountain side in great numbers, and are from ten to thirty feet in height, making a very curious appearance. Further on to the right, you are shewn a range of caverns, close by each other, called Doves'-Holes; there are three distinguished in size from the rest,andshaped likeGothic doors at the entrances; they are only about four yards deep in the rock, and have several smaller caves at their extremities. Having heard it asserted, that the prominent parts of the rocks on one side of the dale, correspond with the cavities on the other, and exhibit evident marks

There is a great variety of very rich herbage in Dove-dale, which being effectually sheltered by its rocks and banks, produces many plants that do not grow spontane> ously any where else. The river also abounds with many luxuriant productions, which, with their flowers, greatly ornament the stream between its frequent, gentle falls. We were informed that various kinds of aromatics, such as thyme, marjoram, mint, &c. grow there; but as time would not allow us to make a search, I will not vouch for the truth of it, though, from the uncommon warmth of the place, it is not at all improbable. Thomson recommends a retreat to those who want to read or study undisturbed! if any such should live in the vicinity of Dove-dale, I would by all means advise them to resort thither; and,

Through rural scenes, such as the Mantuan which we afterwards found serviceable.

swain

Paints in the matchless harmony of song;
So catch thyself the landscape gliding swift
Athwart imagination's vivid eye.

We met here with a very singular character, which appeared something extraordinary in so remote a situation. When we entered the house, a man sat opposite us by the fire-side, asleep on an old couch. His whole appearance, countenance, and dress marked his character very distinctly; and I found, upon farther acquaintance, that my conjectures were not too hastily formed: his face was flushed with a glow, but not the glow of health; excessive drinking had tinged it; and the shades of red, which began at his ears, gradually increased, and centering at his nose, formed a deep dyed purple: his locks were grey, which were ornaments but ill suited to such a countenance: his clothes were shabby and ill matched; they seemed to have been collected at different periods, for their fashions did not correspond; the waistcoat had just a sufficiency of colour left to discover that it had originally been green; his breeches were well secured from the effects of wind and weather by a thick coat of grease, and to give the more scope for action, had a rent three inches wide in the right knce; his hat one might well suppose to have hung for several seasons on the top-of a pole in a corn-field, to frighten

Indeed, the beauties of Dove-dale quite eclipsed all that we had seen before, even those of Middleton and Matlock.. We conjectured our course through Dove-dale to be two miles and a half. We found our horses waiting for us at the other end, and having satisfied our guide, we rode on to Mill dale. The hills now wore a very different aspect from those we had left behind us, being entirely without any rocks or wood, and clothed with rich green verdure, which gave them a very beautiful appearance. About eleven o'clock we reached Alstonfield, a curious ancient village. Our guide had recommended us to the King's Head; but on riding up to it, the house and people did not appear at all inviting; and, on enquiry, finding that we could not have any corn for our horses, we had a good pretext for turning about, and going to another inn; in which, though both house and furniture were very homely, yet a good-natured landlady made amends for all. Upon calling for some brandy, we had some brought in a large black pitcher. We dined upon beans and bacon, which proved a sub-away the crows, and it looked as if stantial repast previous to our de- some of those ravagers had reveng scent into Acton mine. Mr. Har- ed themselves for the terror it had ris, who had given us our route occasioned them, by tearing it at from Ashburn thither, upon paper, the edges with their bills. In short, had been very particular in recom-his whole figure, from head to foot, mending us to lay in here a good denoted indolence, filth, and drunkstore of belly-timber (as he termed enness. We had not sat long be it), and to furnish ourselves with a fore he opened his eyes and bottle of brandy; a precaution stretched his arms" Good mor