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LETTERS FROM A FRENCH ATELIER.

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the palace favorites is too strong. He So he gave me a little ticket, with will appear in history not as the sultan which I had to step up to a pigeon-hole who saved the empire, but as the one and pay about fourpence. Then my who might have saved it and did not. box was re-locked and corded, and we

AN EASTERN RESIDENT. went to the little omnibus and started. CONSTANTINOPLE, 1894.

Joggle! joggle ! joggle! went that little bus. The coachman went as if he were driving a hearse, and we were

dragged over such bumpy stone streets. Froin Temple Bar.

The houses are very tall and very

clean — the whole city looks clean and HOTEL SAINT-GEORGES.

white. The shop girls and working 49 Rue Bonaparte, Paris,

April 6th, 1886. girls go about without hats or bonMY DEAR SIR,

nets, and with their hair most beauI have written all my adventures up tifully arranged. to our arrival at the railway station wear lovely caps, white and starched. here to May. When I woke up it was so we slowly joggled along through the in the grey of the morning, just out- great Palace of the Louvre, which looks side Paris. The country appears to as white and clean as if it had been me to have been flattened out with a built last week, across the Seine and rolliug-pin, and then numbers of trees down our street. Our hotel is very trimmed with scissors have been stuck nice and clean and lofty. We have in rows all about. Here and there is two little rooms at the top. Mine has a farmhouse, and I saw one plough a fireplace in it ; Reidie's hasn't. You drawn by one horse. Isn't this a soul- could swing two cats in my room. inspiring prospect ? We passed crowds There is a French window opening on of blue blouses going to their work. to the balcony, and a view all over the "The workmen here all wear them, and roofs of the houses opposite, and the they look so nice and clean. Every- two towers of a great old church, St. body seems to be in dark blue, por- Sulpice, near. were exhausted ters, soldiers, workmen, workwomen, and very tired. It was about 6.30 A.M., and so on.

and we ordered some coffee ; there was A porter found us a small omnibus, a bright wood fire blazing on the open into which he put our traps. Then we hearth. I now have the awful fact to went to the octroi for our luggage. relate that when we wanted a chamber"This was a great circular counter, in- maid to bring up our coffee there came side which stood the custom-house offi- a man! This man does everything

The luggage was all piled on it. for us ; but as we wish to lay a sacri• Nothing to declare, madame ?” tice on the altar of propriety, and to said a blue-and-red demon to me. soften the shock as much as possible, “Nothing, monsieur,” said I, with a we call him Jemima.

Jemima is very melting smile.

agreeable ; he smiles whenever he adThe porter unstrapped my box, and dresses us ; he does anything he can this animated outrage dived his fingers for us. If he continues in this virtuous right down into it.

frame for a week we shall bestow a “ No cigars, no tobacco ? "

frauc upon him. “Oh, no, monsieur !” said I, virtu- Well, Jemima brought us the coffee, ously shocked at such an idea.

and it was very good ; and after we However, he trundled my things had had it we went to bed, and slept about, and at last espied a tin of tongue like tops. which my mother had bestowed on me. I say,” said Reidie, coming in in a

6 Ha!in a voice of thunder ; great state of excitement, “there's 66 what is this ? "

been an art student here, and he's left monsicur. Ox tongue.”

some studies.

I've been looking at 66 You must pay duty."

them; they're not much, though.” So LIVING AGE. VOL. V. 232

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after we had put on our things to go | him, as he was not in Paris last Thursout, I went to look. They were nude day. Alas, Reidie and I have to call studies fairly well drawn, but the color on him next Thursday instead, and I wasn't much. We went out and walked have to deliver a French speech to down the Rue Bonaparte and along the him. He came about ten o'clock ; we Quai Voltaire, admiring everything. had been at work since eight. He is We saw some very stylish French- a greasy, curly, dirty-looking man, with

This is a bonnet one of them a large dress-improver behind like Mr. bad on.

Should you like to see me Lane, and a large waistcoat in front come back in one? Then we looked like you. And such little tiny legs and about for a restaurant, and Reidie neat boots! Well, he paraded round daren't go into ever so many we came our easels and corrected our work. to, because there were so many men He said in an encouraging way to me, there. At last we found a secluded “ It is not bad ;" only as he speaks spot, where we had a biftek and pota- French I have to listen with all my toes and Camembert cheese and coffee, ears. After M. Carolus had finished for about 1s. 3d. each. Then we bought correcting us the model rested, and he some bread and some butter, and came took a wicker armchair and sat therein home, There we found that Miss and lit a cigarette, and all the students Hamilton had called, and left an invita- stood round and worshipped him, extion for us to go to her this evening ; cept Reidie and I and a few English, but we thought, as we didn't know the who remained stolidly in the backway, we would stop at home and go ground. He asked who had left cards when it was daylight.

for him, and Reidie said she was the The young man who lives in the man ; so we've to go and call. Then next room has been playing divinely he pitched into one of the students on the fiddle this evening. He began who had got the head too large, and with “God Save the Queen," and then delivered a majestic lecture, at which made frantic attempts to perform“ Pop Reidie and I snorted under our breath, goes the Weasel.”

We imagine it is because we've heard our president out of compliment to us. We thought deliver a lecture just the other way we ought to applaud, but we restrained about. Carolus says you must make a our feelings. They daren't attempt to head smaller than life, and Sir Fredpronounce my name here. They make erick Leighton says make it quite as frantic shots at Reidie's — “Mademoi- large, or larger. However, that didn't selle Araidë !” they say.

matter to us, as it wasn't a question of You never saw such baggy trou painting. At last the model sat again, never mind! - - as the soldiers wear. and monsieur got up and went round Reidie says there are only three sizes again, with a word or two to each. made, and they have to wear the size At last he got to the door, and said that fits them most nearly. The uni- solemnly: "I go. Good-day, mesdeforms look shabby, and some are hide- moiselles,” and departed. He

Some have helmets with tails all never smiled but once, and that was a down their backs. It is my delight to blighted, watery kind of smile, sugwalk along the streets and look at the gestive of hidden remorse indipriests, see them turn their eyes down gestion. or look away. Priests mayn't look at Then Reidie and I went home to women, they do look so goody and lunch, and we cooked an omelet and unconscious, as if you were a door-mat some bread fritters on our little spirit or å post. They are all very fat and lamp, and had tea and marmalade, and sleek.

felt, as the American lady said,

April 13th, 1886. “ pretty crowded” when we'd done. The great Monsieur A. B. C. came Then she went to the Hôtel Cluny to to the atelier to-day to correct our sketch, and I went to the gallery at the drawings. It was my first sight of Palais de Luxembourg, where I am

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copying a picture. While I was there early king of France, who did a good an American lady came up - a friend deal in the crusading line about the of our friend Miss Hamilton -and twelfth century. It is full of most she was so kind, and invited me and gorgeous stained-glass windows, and Reidie to go and call on her any even- every bit of the pillars and wall is ing. She has a son — she calls him a illuminated with gorgeous blues and boy ; but he is quite big — who is reds and greens, with gold fleur-de-lis working next to me. He looks like and crosses all over them. It is like a pice sort of boy, and is doing a very a jewel. There is a square hole in the good thing. He is a student at the wall, which goes into a sort of niche, Académie des Beaux Arts — which where a bad old rascal of a king answers to our R. A.

Louis XI. – used to sit and hear mass We have had three other students because he was so afraid of being to call on us nay, four- and

we assassinated by his nobles. We have have invited a fifth to lurch with been in the Palais de Justice, too, and us in our rooms next Tuesday. We seen French lawyers. They are not are going to cook her an omelet. It's like English ones. They wear caps no end of fun cooking an omelet over something like this. We have been a spirit lamp. You spread a news in Notre Dame, and seen the bone out paper on the floor to catch the grease of the spine of the Archbishop of splashes, and you put a lot of butter Paris, which was struck by a bullet in the pan, and three eggs beaten up, when he was shot during the Comand then you poke frantically at it with mune. Every third man or boy seems a knife, and dovetail butter under it to wear either a uniform or livery if you think it's going to burn. And here. it's good, I can tell you. I'll cook you Now I am going to tell you how we one when I get home on my little went to call on Carolus Duran. lamp.

It was Thursday — his " at home " is We have very interesting adventures from one to three. So after the class in the dining line. In a Duval restau- we went home and put on our best rant – there is a Duval company, with gowns. It was cold enough for me to a lot of establishments all over Paris wear my best jacket, which afforded you can order one plate of anything, me much consolation. Reidie began with two clean plates, and divide it. to be afflicted with a shaking of the So we can get two or three courses of knees, but I rose to the occasion. most elegant French dishes for about “Should I, who never quailed at the 1s. 3d. each. Vol au vent au financier, fearsome Alma Tadema, shrink from a a very thrilling kind of tart stuffed Frenchman ? Never !" So I said, with mushrooms and olives ; galantine“ Come along, let's hurry ; then we de veau with truffles ; Chateaubriand shan't think about it.” So we hurried. a celestial kind of steak. This is very We went through the Luxembourg tender and juicy. It is cooked be- Gardens, and up a little street into the tween two other pieces of meat, so Rue Notre Dame des Champs, in a that it gets the juices out of each of little passage out of which monsieur them.

has his studio. I waxed very valiant I have seen lots of beautiful pic- as we went along. So I said : “ I'll do tures and churches, and the Arc de the talking this time, Reidie.” We Triomphe, and the Bois de Boulogne, had been told that, having an introand the fortifications of Paris ; but as duction from Tadema, we ought to get I don't like guide-books myself, I our fees considerably reduced . but judge you won't.

But there is one we should have to ask for the reduc. place, La Sainte Chapelle, which tion ourselves. This we hated the is the most exquisite and lovely and thought of ; but after several days of almost divine place I ever saw in my severe reflection and deep study of life. It was built by St. Louis, an Nugent's French-English Dictionary,

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we composed a pleasing speech which at the atelier. We thanked him and I was to administer.

retired. Well, we got there, and saw a whole

April 25th, 1836. rush of people going in. Fortunately It is Easter Sunday morning, and I they were English too ; and desper- am sitting in bed thinking what you ately shy, like us. So we went through can be doing just now. My partner a great door iuto a large gloomy hall being, as I before stated, a weak vescalculated to strike terror into the bold- sel, takes a good long sleep on Sunday est soul. There was a gruesome dark- mornings, so we can't have breakfast ness about it suggestive of dungeons. until 9.30, which will just leave me We got to some glass doors on the first time to get to church and hear the dear floor, which were opened for us, with old English service – in foreign parts a clash, by a melancholy and obsequi- it is so homelike ; and as I can't sleep ous young man, and we followed the after seven o'clock, and it's of no use English party into a majestic apart- getting up at present, I am making use ment like those you read of in Dis- of the time by writing to you. It is raeli's novels. Thick gorgeous rugs beautiful weather here; I hope you and hangings all about, curious carv- are having it. I go and look to see ings, mirrors, curiosities and objects of how the grass is growing every now art, quaint and lovely pots, feathers, and then, and I hope yours is coming and so on, and a lot of big easels on on rapidly. which are pictures. But before all On Good Friday we went to hear these stood monsieur, clad in a gor- some beautiful music at the church of geous velvet coat, with his hair .ambro- Saint Eustache, where is the finest sially curled, and a most entrancing organ in Paris. It was the “Stabat smile upon his face. He is a bad imi- Mater” of Rossini. It certainly was tation of our Sir Frederick Leighton exquisite ; only those horrid Parisians (oh, I think I told you that before will have their churches so tawdry inbut I don't think I told you that he side, and will not show proper reveris credited with having ovce said to a ence in their behavior. There was a student, “ Am I not handsome ?") We sermon in the middle ; and while that went up and shook hands and made was going on, something bappened on our most elegant bows. You should the other side of the church - I suphave seen mine. So then we went and pose some one fainted, perhaps — and looked at the pictures and portraits. all the congregation in the nave – Of course we had to study them atten- nearly all — jumped up and stared in tively, as being our master's work. that direction. After a bit they sat Meanwhile one of the Englishmen down again. In the afternoon went up and talked to monsieur. Then went to the famous old cemetery of he left him. Reidie nudged me — the Père La Chaise. I was most anxious awful moment had come for the speech. to find the tomb of Abelard and HeWe advanced. I began, “ Vous avez loise, and we didn't want to pay a reçu la carte de Monsieur Tadema, guide ; so I let the weak vessel rest monsieur ?"

while I ranged about; and at last, just “Parfaitement, mademoiselle,” said as we had given up all hope, I discov. A. B. C., with another gracious smile. ered it. Their figures are carved lying

“On dit que vous tenez les étudiants side by side, and a Gothic canopy has qui n'ont pas beaucoup d'argent pour been built over them. There were a quatre-vingt francs le premier er few wreaths on the railing of the tomb er” – here the rest of the speech - put there by lawyers, I suppose.

I evaporated somehow, and I was left Père La Chaise is a beautiful place lamenting. But monsieur excused me, -avenues of trees all about, and in and kindly said that he would cer- parts it is rocky and steep. The tainly make the reduction, and we French build tombs for their families must arrange it with the head student with vaults underneath. These tombs

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are like tiny chapels, just big enough awe-inspiring drawing-room of that to hold a little altar, on which there is mansion. We are going to have a generally a cross and two candles, and negro for a model to-morrow. Won't a prie-dieu chair in front. There is a that be interesting? I should like to grated door through which you can know when Dora starts her Bible-class, look and see the names of those buried and how it gets on. I wonder whether underneath carved on the little altar, she is going to have men or girls. I'd or above it. Sometimes a little stained sooner have men, because they are glass window is let in above the altar.

easier to manage.

May 3rd, 1886. Sunday Evening. I hear, sir, that you have joined the We have had such warm day! The Primrose League and are a knight. chestuut-trees in the Champs Elysées Oh, yes ! Please take me to a meeting are out in full leaf and blossom. It of your habitation when I come home, looks like the beginning of June. If it I should much like to be allowed to sit were, shouldn't I be chuckling at the at the feet of the great lights of that thought of getting back to old England association and hear their wisdom. soon ! But don't you think I am not I am informed that a lady – name comfortable here. I am, very ; only I uuknown has presented you with a shall like so much to see you all again, charm to wear round your neck. Is it and put on haughty airs and pretend her portrait set in gems, or a lock of not to understand my own language, her hair? And do you think it is nice and keep bursting into French. There of you, not only to go on like this, but

such crowds at the English to cause news of your doings to be sent Church ; a number stayed to the sac-across the sea to a helpless orphan in a rament. The church was beautifully foreign land ? I suppose you wear it decorated with roses and camellias, next your heart. Of course — quité so. and so on ever so many of them. Reidie and I have been to the Salon We had a very nice sermon. Reidie - to-day. It is the great exhibition of sinful moukey ! — went off to Notre modern pictures which is held every Danie, where the Cardinal Archbishop year. The minds of French artists of Paris was to give a benediction from seem to run very much on blood and

We met after each of our corpses, and ladies with nothing on. services at the Louvre. She said she At every step there was a gentleman in had a very good view of him, but I a state of updress, with other gentledidn't want to waste my Sunday morn- men prodding swords into him, or ing staring at a cardinal processioning dancing ou his prostrate form ; next a. around with his train held up by aco- pleasing collection of corpses, grace lytes. Reidie said it took two priests fully sprinkled with gore ; next a large in white and gold to take his hat off picture of a title of sugar, a brown and put it on. We are going to Saint pot, some onions, and a radish ; next Germains to-morrow, where King Adam and Eve in the costume of the James II. of England lived after he period. After which crowds of ladies, was turned off the English throne. attired simply but gracefully in a neckWe are obliged to go out on Monday lace each, or one bracelet. afternoons, because all the galleries are But there are also some very strong shut. So we take our lunches with us, pictures, and it is as good as a month's and our paint-boxes, and go sketch- work in an atelier to spend an aftering. We went to call to-day at a very noon there. majestic pension in a majestic street We know a very nice student from out of the Champs Elysées. Oh, most Philadelphia, U.S. We are going to eleganı! Reidie and I came to the see her. One of the girls at the atelier conclusion that it is much jollier living comes from Spanish America. There here as we do than paying ten francs a are several Swiss, and I believe day for the privilege of sitting in the Swedes and Germans. The Germans

the pope.

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