And so the compact is concluded. Both are fully satisfied, and think nothing of the ten minutes they have wasted, for both conclude they have "bested" the other. This phrase "come and see us again" is the usual farewell. I have had it said to me scores of times.

The storekeeper fires a bolt at the nearest | with characteristic modesty put the followspittoon, shakes his head, and turns to ing heading: “It is, thank you!" serve another customer. Prospective A great number of Americanisms are buyer saunters round the store, and provincialisms from Old England, imeventually reaches the door. At this ported by those emigrants of the humbler moment the storekeeper calls out, — class, who speak generation after generaSay you can take that durned thing; tion the language of their fathers, the lanbut come and see us again, will yer?" guage of tradition rather than of literature. The "I reckon " of the Southern States (for "I guess " is properly Yankee) is still to be found among the rustics of various parts of England. The sturdy shepherd of the South Downs still uses "mad" for "angry," and "axey " for "ague." In several districts of England the cockchafer is still called the "May-bug," and the green beetle of midsummer the " June-bug." The promiscuous use of "elegant may find its counterpart in the Hibernian pet adjective, and a square meal" is good old English enough. It is enshrined in the dramatic literature of the Shakespearean era. But the list could be extended almost indefinitely. It is sufficient to point out that many expressions, which strike us now as strange, were familiar enough to our forefathers; and that in many cases the Americans have helped to perpetuate a period of the English lan guage, just as the Icelanders, shut off in their oceanic solitude, still speak the Norse that was spoken by the invaders of England.

There is, on the other hand, an excellent trait in American shopping. If you can't get exactly what you want, the storekeeper will help you to find it elsewhere. He will direct you to various other stores, inviting you back should your search be unavailing. One commonly hears a man say, "Guess I'll see what notions So-andso's gotten, and if they're no better than yourn, I'll come right back." And come right back he does. There is a deal of genuineness mixed up with this "Jewing down" process. At the same time competition induces strange ways. Salesmen are valuable according to the number of friends they can allure to buy. In the provincial towns it is a very usual thing to see a salesman making the tour of the store with six or seven handsomely dressed ladies, whom he introduces to the storekeeper and other salesmen as his "social acquaintances," and whom he generally induces to purchase largely. If you pause and listen, you will hear a deal of society gossip mixed up with details of dry goods.

The language of the American is decidedly interesting, whether we take the elided crisp words of Yankee speech, or the "high-falutin'" pomposities of the Western States. There is no fear for this language. The eccentricities which at present bulge and warp will in time subside. Education will impart a more lit erary-not necessarily less suitable character to the language. But will education impart a more mellifluous accent, a sweeter, softer voice? An Englishman, however cultivated, is rarely jarred by the Americanisms - they carry their own credentials; but he draws the line at the nasal twang, the high, sustained, and rapid jarring voice, the occasional prolonged drawl. When in America I had two com. my national char-in acter -anent this. A group of us were talking in an eastern hotel, and an old gentleman, a Virginian senator, said to me,

But to return to the language. Some of the expressions in vogue do honor to their order; they are really expressive. For example, all spreading trees with plentiful foliage for there are many trees in America which do not conform with this description are called "shade" trees. They are always to be found close to the houses. A man of ability and standing is spoken of as a "solid man- also ex-pliments paid me .in pressive. Similarly an honest man politics a rara avis is said to be "" square. "A man of push and go is called a "live man. When you are punctual, you are on time; when successful, you on top." I remember a San Francisco paper printing the following remark: "On top! It is pleasant when a newspaper feels this way!" The New York Herald reprinted the remark, and

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"I reckoned you English d'rectly you opened your mouth. I judged it by your accent."

"Accent," forsooth! Who, thought I, spoke with the accent? Nevertheless, I took it as a compliment.

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Upon another occasion an Englishman | favored in his desire for a private view by whom I had just met mentioned that he an indulgent Legation. had mistaken me for an American; partly, I believe, because I was in the company of one! My companion burst out,

Why, goodness gracious! you never heard an American speak from his chest like that—and you never will!"

Cleveland was Cæsar in the days I chronicle—a better Cæsar than most of his kidney but "how have the mighty fallen!" Small thanks for his labors does the president nowadays receive, and yet little gratitude is at least in accord with Allowing for a slight exaggeration on the "small beer" the nation votes for his the part of my friendly companion, I may services. As most people know, he resay that Jonathan rarely sounds a chest ceives the small salary of ten thousand a note. But education in this matter is year, and even that is double the sum looking up. The wealthier, more trav- allowed before 1873. Out of this he has elled Americans, are afflicted with Anglo- to disburse all private expenses, all public mania. They have got it badly. They entertainments. Even the domestics of are modelling their houses, their equi- the White House are unprovided for by pages, their clothes, their customs upon the government. The wages of coachthose of the English. They imitate our men and cooks come out of the official very slang expressions in order to become pittance. Only such individuals as are more English, you know." And I am indispensable to the nation are paid by glad to say that some of the more auda- the nation. cious are even attempting to speak with English intonation. And that this is not a mere "international amenity on my part, I will leave the New York Sun to speak for its fellow-citizenesses: "In one respect the average American woman is to far behind her English sister. Her voice is not so melodious, and her intonation is less agreeable. A crowd of American women, it must be confessed, will make a din with their voices which distresses the ear. Here, the voice is high and harsh; there (in England) it is low and soft, soothing and gratifying the ear like Sweet music."

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An American lady, belonging to a fa-
mous New York family, lately stayed here
for several months, in order to be Angli-
cized. She would frequently say to me,
"Do I speak like an Englishwoman?
Isn't that very English ?" and so on. But
a few days ago an American girl came to
me in ecstasies over the charming voices
of some flower-girls in one of our London
streets. "Ah," she said, "we have noth-
ing like that."

Having lingered in the streets and
picked up crumbs of custom and speech
let drop by the American people, I will,
before leaving this subject, ask the reader
to allow me to "personally conduct " him
to the American court. No gorgeous
pageants figure in my programme; not
only for the very excellent reason that
there are no pageants to figure, but also
because here, as everywhere, I tried, and
usually managed, to merge myself in the
crowd, and learn while I listened and
looked.
When I went to the White
House, it was with the "sovereign peo-
ple," and not as an intrusive Englishman,

For the White House is divided against itself, or, at least, serves two masters. It has a public and a private life. One half may be regarded as the Executive Mansion, the office of the chief magistrate of the republic. A couple of secretaries, a few clerks, messengers, and doorkeepers, and one fireman, make up "the household" which the nation provides. The other half may be called the president's residence, and private only in a compara. tive sense. All domestic expenses con. nected with this portion of the White House are borne by the president's salary, although, as we shall see, the sovereign people are not averse to monopolizing the establishment on occasions neither formal nor rare.

A hard worker like Cleveland found no bed of roses in the Executive Mansion. In his office by 9 A.M., and at work on an assorted mail; interviewing the members of his Cabinet and the Congress till noon, receiving any private callers from then till half past one, and after that the mob generally till they let him escape to lunch; this meal finished, more work till 5 P.M., when the daily drive came as a refresher and a whet to the appetite for seven o'clock dinner. And when it is said that after dinner Cleveland usually returned to his study and worked till midnight, it will be seen that his lot, however happy, was not a light one.

It is true that great simplicity prevails at the White House, but at the same time it is equally true that the fierce light of the American press beats upon the innermost life of the president, and renders privacy almost unattainable. Does the first magistrate give a dinner-party to a

few friends? We are told all about it, or, | Some six hundred tourists had arrived to

at any rate, all that the reporters can find
out or have wit enough to imagine. Every
detail is published abroad, and often in
amusing conjunction with some question
of the day. The prohibitionists will give
a list of the aërated waters drunk, and":
their opponents record exactly how many
wine-glasses are apportioned to each guest,
and for what wines they are destined.
One society paper will relate that the
president keeps strictly to the etiquette
of being always helped first, even at his
own table, while another will explain with
fulsome gush how graciously he waives
the custom in favor of his lady guests!
But it will not do to throw stones at so-
ciety papers; we live in glass houses our-
selves.

One day, between the hours of one and two, I formed a unit in a parti-colored concourse of citizens, and passed through the portals of the White House. A large saloon on the entrance floor, called the East Room, is the audience chamber. I was in no hurry to press on, being anxious to pick up the etiquette proper to the occasion, and about which, as a monarchist, I was a little perturbed. Live and learn! The only ceremony to be performed was to grip the unfortunate man's hand, and see that you got it, for in the surging crowd this was not so simple a matter as might be imagined. The rest was go as you please.' But in the mean while I paused and loitered among my fellowcourtiers, and became "the chiel "among them "takin' notes.'

"do" Washington, including the presi dent. Satchels were slung across their shoulders, and suspicious bulges, bottleshaped, occurred in their pocket regions. Many of these were not content with one 'grip," but, in spite of remonstrances from the two or three officials present, formed themselves into a procession and marched into the audience chamber, out and in again, round and round in factno fewer, I think, than three times before their inconsiderate career could be checked. It will be understood how inconsiderate when I say that sometimes two and three thousand visitors are to be found at these daily audiences, and that upon one occasion -it was actually counted-the "presidential pump-handle performance" went for half-an-hour at the uniform rate of forty shakes to the minute!

But I am still lingering among the courtiers outside the actual presence. They repay a deal of lingering, I can assure you. A few minutes ago some women near me shut down the window next to them; they were cold. Now, two women are struggling to raise this window; they are hot. A gentleman a few feet off is busily dog-earing a handsome album which lies on a side-table. Another has just picked a pretty bud from a plant; it now reposes in his button-hole. A middleaged woman who left her chair has returned, to find it confiscated by another female. There is a row. They both claim equal rights; the chair belongs to the nation, you know. And are they not the sovereign people, and in their own house? There is an unusual number of spittoons provided, but it appears to me that there are not enough yet. Oh dear! no, not nearly enough. And so the scene, with the people, moves on, and I with the people.

I had arrayed my person in a black coat and waistcoat, and I was now busily protecting the gloss of a high hat from the aggressions of the perambulating court. Such preparations as I had made were the exception. Near me there stood a merry old negro, cracking stupendous jokes in hilarious tones, and innocent of any coat. Had his blue-and-white-checked I am in the presidential presence. It shirt-sleeves been spotless, I could have is a fine one. Cleveland was full of that forgiven him. There were white men unassumed calmness which we call dig. there, clearly respectable citizens, who nity. An intellectual man, too, with a reversed this order and wore no waist- quiet, observant eye. A large man coat. The weather certainly was warm; amply built upward and across, and filling but in Europe, I believe, that is not ac out a voluminous frock-coat until it had cepted as an excuse for wearing a holland not a single crease. This much I noticed, suit in preference to levée dress. All and then I was on my way back. Two manner of costume was here, and it was men in front of me were trying to shove clear enough that these courtiers had just in a request about some appointment, but strolled in out of the glare of the streets this being strictly forbidden, they were to have a "handshake" with the president," moved on " by the secretary. They were and see how he fared.

But there were others country-folk who had come very much on purpose.

chronic office-seekers, no doubt, who, hav ing found private interviews futile, were availing themselves of the public audience

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end to end, showed in spring a continuous, | tient way is willing to put up with a modjagged line of their slovenly straw-and-erate amount of thieving, and who regards feather nests. As soon as the corn ripens the hall or castle rookery as being, like they muster in myriads, and, wherever a the weather, a burden to be borne, loses field of grain is bounded by a thick hedge patience when he finds the rooks encroachto which they can retreat, ravage the boring in all directions. And within the past ders and headlands till there is nothing few years they have done this to right and left but chaff. When scared, they first fly left. New rookeries have been estabto the hedge, changing its green to a mass lished by the score, until in some districts of brown feathers, and then, if a shot is there is scarcely a strip of plantation or a fired, fly off to another part of the field. clump of trees without nests on it. If That wood-pigeons, individually the most undisturbed, these annually grow larger, destructive of all winged pests, for they until, as in the old rookery, there is hardly will devour almost their own weight in a branch without a nest on it. corn, have increased to an equal extent, is less capable of proof, as they nest singly, and one cannot number the flocks of them. They come over here, lean and hungry, from the Norwegian forests, and speedily grow so large and fat, that at the end of the season they cannot make up their minds to return.

It would be more difficult to assign a reason for this phenomenal prosperity of wild life were not the only exceptions to it those species which the game-keeper keeps in check. There are not more magpies, hawks, ravens, or carrion crows now than there used to be, but that is because he is continually reducing their numbers, never missing an opportunity of killing them in the fields, and watching by their nests in spring to shoot the parent birds. And the very efficiency with which this work is done accounts in some measure for the

But the great enemy of the farmer is the rook. He is not such a glutton as the wood-pigeon, and varies his food more, but what he wants in eating capacity he makes up in numbers. Of the multiplication of rooks all over the country dur-increase of the smaller singing birds, the ing the last ten or fifteen years there is lark and the redbreast, finches-includ full and abundant evidence. Exactly the ing even the once rare and delicate bullsame thing has happened in Scotland finch and the gold-finch whenever it can and the Midlands and north of England. find thistle-down-linnets-green linnets As is well known, there are two kinds of may be seen in flocks almost rivalling nesting-places known respectively as win- the starlings-blackbirds, thrushes, and ter and summer rookeries. The former others. Indeed, in some districts he does may be regarded as the bird's legitimate his work too well, as in those where, home, and the ancestral rookery is an ad- owing to an absurd notion that owls steal junct to a country house which no one eggs and kill young game, these useful would like to be destroyed. To many who birds were shot down, until rats and mice are neither poets nor painters there is no have grown so numerous in the hedgemusic sweeter than the first cawings of rows, that game-preservers find it difficult the young rooks on a May morning, or the to protect the eggs of pheasants and parharsher notes of their elders as they tum- tridges from them. A chapter from the ble and scream in the park, in anticipation recent history of the squirrel may be adof the strong October wind which is coming duced to prove that, unless extraordinary to sweep the withering leaves from lime measures are taken, the present conditions and chestnut; or when, still later, the bare are favorable to an inordinate increase of and leafless twigs stand out like a black wild life in rural England. A Northumtracery against a clear December sky, they brian land-owner, Mr. George Grey of hold a parliament on the tree-tops. These Milfield, writes to me: "This country did old rookeries they never desert all the year not suffer from squirrels until about fif round, and often in the late autumn a care- teen or twenty years ago, and I have heard ful mother-crow will be seen mending the old men say that they remembered when house which wind or accident has dam- a squirrel here would have been looked aged. But the summer rookeries have upon as a rare animal." They have, howbeen erected merely to accommodate the ever, increased to such an extent that surplus population. As soon as the breed-game-keepers for the last five years have ing season is over they are deserted, par- had strict orders to shoot them, owing to ents and children alike joining the huge the injury they do to fir-trees. Nearly flock which nightly the "many-wintered every Scotch fir in the Fenton Hill Wood,' chief leads back to the ancient roosting- says Mr. Grey, "some mile and a half place. Now the farmer, who in his pa- long, which my father planted, is ruined