ष THE PLANTATION IN ULSTER. CHAPTER I.-ULSTER BEFORE THE PLANTATION. I. T is told of an Ultonian, who lived in the third century, that from a peak in the Beanna Boirche, now the Mourne mountains, he could see all the land northward to DunSobhairce [Dunseverick], and southward as far as Dun-Dealgan [Dundalk]. In other words, he thus beheld at a glance the great northern division of Ireland nearly throughout its whole length, for the Uladh or Ultonia of that remote period included the present county of Louth, which now belongs to Leinster. The above statement is found in the Dinnseanchus, a topographical tract of the eighth century on the origin of the names of many remarkable places in Ireland (1). But the Ulster man of to-day may easily test the truth of this ancient record by a visit to some elevated peak among his native mountains, from which he will find that his eye can traverse nearly every leading division of our noble northern land. Thus, even from the summit of a mountain named Knocklayd, an elevation of not more than 1690 feet in the northern Glens of Antrim, he may behold all the country westward as far as Slieve-Snaght [snowy mountain], on the distant border of Donegal; and southward to the vicinity of Newry, where Slieve-Gullen appears, on clear days, as if resting in an amber-coloured sea. Should he take his stand on the (1). In Ireland.-Two copies at least of the Dinnseanchus have been preserved, varying in some slight respects, but both highly valuable, as containing our earliest topographical notices of Ireland. When accounting for the name Beanna Boirche, by which the Mourne mountains were anciently designated, the Dinnseanchus in the Book of Lecan says:-"Benn Boirche, why so called? Boirche, a cow-herd, son of Ros Righbuidhi, and this pinnacle was his head seat. And alike did he herd every cow from Dun-Sobhairce [Dunseverick] to Inbher Colptha [Colp], and from Boinn [Boyne] to Beann Boirchi." In reference to this matter, O'Donovan states that "the mountains usually called Beanna Boirche, i.e., the peaks of Boirche, were called (according to the Dinnseanchus) after Boirche, the shepherd of Ros, king of Ulster in the third century, who herded the king's cattle on these mountains. In the Dinnseanchus it is stated that the shepherd Boirche could view from these mountains [of Mourne] all the land southwards as far as Dun-Dealgan, and northwards as far as Dun-Sobhairce."-(See Book of Rights, translated and annotated by O'Donovan, p. 165; see also pp. 38, 157, 169; O'Flaherty's Ogygia, part iii., chap. 69; Annals of the Four Masters, pp. 735, 1495; Irish Topographical Uladh was not known by its present name of Ulster conical peak of Slieve-Snaght, or even on one of its huge shoulders, the hills and glens of Inishowen, the lakes, and dells, and streams of that wildly picturesque region, are literally spread at his feet; whilst far away, his eye rests on many attractive places, including the Magilligan Strand, the heights around the city of Derry, and even the headlands on the Antrim coast. But, as an illustration better still, let him ascend that magnificent alpine range, now known as the Sperrin mountains, which extends along the mutual border of Londonderry and Tyrone, and forms the culminating point of the extensive highlands in both those counties. The highest peak there, called Sawel, is about 2,230 feet above the sea-level, and from it the spectator may be literally said to behold, as on a map, the several divisions of Ulster; and more especially those counties which our task will require us to notice in detail, and which group themselves, with one exception, around and near the base of the mighty mountain range now mentioned. The whole field of the plantation thus lies all around, extending from Lough Ramor, which forms one part of the boundary line with Leinster on the south, to the coasts of Derry and Donegal on the north-west; and from Lough Neagh and the Bann on the east, beyond Lough Erne, and to the boundary line with Connaught on the west. Although our northern mountains have been formed generally in groups, and often in isolated masses, instead of in ranges, yet the eye can easily trace two distinct series, made up of such groups and masses, running almost parallel to each other across this northern province from east to west. The northern series, passing through the counties of Antrim, Derry, and Donegal, is broken by two great straths or vales, along which the Foyle and the Bann flow into the Atlantic. The southern series, extending through the counties of Down, Monaghan, Cavan, and Fermanagh, is skirted along its whole length by a succession of fertile and beautiful glens. The vast central area of comparatively level country comprises, with slight exceptions, the plantation lands, and is diversified throughout its whole extent by many a pleasant lake (2) and river (3), by undulating hills, fertile plains, and valleys, which combine alike the picturesque beauty and fertility of hill and plain. This area is free, also, as compared with other provinces of Ireland, from those dismal-looking patches (2). Pleasant lake.-The great number of lakes or loughs in Ulster, large and small, is indeed still remarkable, although several of the latter class are known to have disappeared during the last three centuries. Lough Neagh, from its vast extent, cannot be associated with one district or region of Ulster in particular, for its waters form a mutual border of the five counties of Londonderry, Antrim, Down, Armagh, and Tyrone. The same may be said, although to a less extent, of the beautiful Lough Erne, whose waters lie mainly in the county of Fermanagh, but belong also slightly to Cavan on the south, and to Donegal on the north-west. In this principal class of the Ulster lakes may also be mentioned the beautiful loughs Melvin and Macnean, on the boundary with Connaught; loughs Gowna, Kinnail, and Sheelin, on the boundary with Leinster; lough Oughter, almost in the centre of the county of Cavan; lough Ramor, on the south-east border of the same county; the Cootehill lakes, on the mutual border of the counties of Cavan and Monaghan; and loughs Derg, Esk, and Veagh, in the central and southern districts of the county of Donegal. (3). And river.-The principal rivers of the six counties aforesaid are the Erne, which flows from the southern boundary of Ulster, through the counties of Cavan and Fermanagh, and falls into the sea at Ballyshannon; the Foyle, composed of many little tributaries in the counties of Donegal and Tyrone, flows across the whole western wing of the county of Londonderry, and falls into Lough Foyle; the Bann, born in a dell among the Mourne mountains, comes northward through Down, Armagh, and Lough Neagh, and on escaping thence, forms the boundary between Antrim and Londonderry, crossing the north-eastern wing of the latter before reaching the sea below Coleraine; the Blackwater, which rises in Tyrone, and, in its course to Lough Neagh, forms the boundary between Tyrone and Armagh; the Faughan and Roe, flowing into Lough Foyle, and the Mayola into Lough Neagh; together with several smaller rivers falling into Lough Neagh, Lough Swilly, Lough Erne, the Bay of Donegal, and into the creeks along that coast. which we call bogs, and which have so generally intruded themselves on the landscape during the last ten centuries (4). The Ultonian, who lived before the commencement of Danish and Norwegian invasions in the eighth century, must have witnessed many fairer scenes of natural beauty than even this northern province afterwards presented; for then was initiated that long succession of war and rapine in Ulster which, amongst other lamentable results, literally covered with morass many a plain and lakeside that had once yielded its yearly crops, or was adorned with noble woods. II. A region so attractive, however, naturally incurred the fate of most other regions similarly endowed it drew towards itself flocks of invaders as the ages rolled on, and these sheltering mountains, which could break the fury of wintry storms, were unable to ward off the scourge of war. The early history of Ulster is now well known, and in some respects better understood than that of most other European regions. Without going back to the remotest times, it may be observed, for example, that the events recorded in connection with the origin and progress of Milesian colonisation are just such as might have been expected to occur, and have been narrated by our ancient chroniclers with a charming directness and simplicity. Thus, the seas, which bore the Milesian fleet of sixty sail towards these shores, proved troublesome, and indeed disastrous-as they have done so frequently since, and will do so frequently in future. When within sight of the southern coasts, these sixty Milesian vessels were suddenly caught in a tempest, which swept across their course from that vast and then mysterious world of waters we have learned to call the Atlantic Ocean. The invading fleet was scattered in all directions, and some of the vessels carrying distinguished leaders, perished in the storm. Among the commanders thus lost was a son of Milesius, named Ir, whose name was afterwards so distinctly associated with the early history of this northern province. The fragments of the scattered fleet were collected; the surviving colonists heroically dared to land; their successes (as in many a later enterprise against Ireland) drew others from the mother-country after them; and their Milesian banners soon floated triumphantly from all the places of strength which had been held by preceding colonists, known as Tuatha-De-Danann. In the distribution of lands among the Milesian leaders, Heber, the son of Ir, was rewarded for his father's services, and his own, by obtaining this northern section of the island; and, in honour of his father's memory, his descendants were known during many ages by the tribe-name of Irians, a designation which eventually included all the inhabitants of Uladh, (4). Ten centuries.-"Though turf [peat] has been the common fuel for several years past, there are circumstances which lead us to suppose that it has been generated within the last thousand years, while tillage and agriculture gave place to war and plunder. The best land, if neglected, may, by various accidents, be soon reduced to a state of rank bog. It is next to demonstration that many of the places where turf is now cut have been once arable, vestiges of which have been discovered at great depths."— (See Camden's Britannia, edited by Gough, vol. iv., Pp. 224, 233). At a place called Greenan, in Glenshesk, county of Antrim, the writer visited an ancient sepulchral mound, over which the peat had grown to a depth of eight feet. When, in process of time, the peat was gradually cut away for fuel, the owner planted the field in potatoes, and found several enclosures beautifully constructed of unhewn stones, and containing cinerary urns of very primitive formation. excepting a comparatively small settlement of Picts (5), who, although so called, and forming a distinct organisation, were also descended from Ir. The Irian princes, in their generations, resided at their palace of Aileach (6), in Donegal, until the time of Ciombaeth, who, at his queen's desire, built the great house known as Eamhuin, or Emania (7), and made it the chief family residence. The first of this Irian line who attained to the dignity of ard-righ, or monarch of all Ireland, was a prince named Rudhraighe, who lived about a century before the birth of Christ, and whose memory was so honoured among his clan that they abandoned their old tribe-name of Irians, and were called Rudricians. This line or dynasty of the Ultonians existed for a period of 600 years, and no fewer than thirty-one of its rulers, from Ciombaeth to Fergus Fogha, occupied the palace of Eamhuin. In all that long period, although Ulster had waged occasional wars with the adjoining provinces of Leinster and Connaught, it had never suffered (5). Settlement of Picts.-The Picts, often called DalAraidhe, appear to have occupied the territory now comprising the southern half of the county of Antrim, and the greater part of the county of Down. Fiacha Araidhe, the progenitor of the Dal-Araidhe, was, according_to Tighernach, lord of the Cruithne, or Picts, in 236.-See Adamnan's Life of St. Columba, edited and annotated by Dr. Reeves, p. 94; see also Reeves's Eccles. Antiquities, pp. 267, 270, 279, 280, 319, 336, 340. (6). Aileach. For a most interesting and elaborate account of Aileach, or Grianan Aileach, or Aileach-Neid, or Aileach-Fririve, by which several names this great structure has been called, see the Ordnance Memoir of the Parish of Templemore. Certain local antiquaries, among whom may be specially mentioned Mr. Peter M'Laughlin, believe that Aileach, on the summit of Greenan Hill, in Burt, had been a Druidical temple, and that the royal palace so called stood about three miles distant, in the townland of Elagh or Ailech. The views of the latter are well put by a writer on Inishowen, as follows:-"There can be little doubt that the palace of Aileach stood in the townland of that name, at a distance of three miles from Greenan, and at the place where O'Dogherty erected a castle in the fifteenth century, a fragment of which remains. The locality is fairly adapted for the purpose, and bears the signs of occupancy and cultivation from the most remote period. Its elevation is somewhat greater than the Hill of Tara, being 248 feet above the level of the sea. It commands a sufficiently extensive view of Tyrconnell, Lough Swilly, Inch, and the adjacent country. As corroborative of this view, we may mention that when Prince Eoghan, who resided in Aileach, died of grief for the loss of his brother, the lord of Tyrconnell, his body was buried in Iskaheen, which adjoins the townland above-named, as related in the Annals of the Four Masters."-(Inishowen: its History, p. 20). Whilst the arguments of this writer, and others holding his views, are worthy of respect and attention, we agree entirely with the opinions of Petrie and O'Donovan, who have clearly shown that the remains on Greenan Hill are those of the ancient royal palace of Eoghan and his descendants, the Ui Neill or Hy-Niall princes. (7). Eamhuin or Emania.-This great building is believed to have been erected about 300 years before the birth of Christ, and the time of its erection is the limit assigned by our most reliable annalist, Tighernach, to authentic Irish history, all records prior to that age being, in his opinion, uncertain. This looks like a gratuitous assertion, the truth of which Tighernach, perhaps, had no more special means of testing than his contemporaries, and about which he was not in much danger of being called to account. The remains of Eamhuin, however, are situate about a mile and a-half westward from the present town of Armagh, and "are, without a single exception," says O'Donovan, "the most extensive of their kind in all Ireland." - (See Battle of Magh Rath, p. 213). They "consist of a circular rath or rampart of earth with a deep fosse, enclosing about eleven acres, within which are two smaller circular forts. The great rath is still known by the name of the Navan Fort, in which the original name is curiously preserved. The proper Irish form is Eamhuin, which is pronounced Aven, the Irish article an, contracted as usual to n, being placed before this, makes it nEamhuin, the pronunciation of which is exactly represented by Navan."-(See Joyce on the Origin and History of Irish Names of Places, p. 85.) The circumstances connected with the origin of this famous palace, as they are recorded in the Book of Leinster, are sufficiently curious. "Three kings, named respectively Aedh-ruadh, Dihorba, and Ciombaeth, agreed to reign each for seven years in alternate succession, and they enjoyed the sovereignty for three periods, or 21 years, when Aedh-ruadh [Ayroo] died. His daughter, the celebrated Macha, of the golden hair, asserted her right to reign when her father's turn came, and being opposed by Dihorba and his sons, she defeated them in several battles, in one of which Dihorba was killed, and she then assumed the sovereignty. She afterwards married the surviving monarch, Ciombaeth, and took the five sons of Dihorba prisoners. The Ultonians proposed that they should be put to death. Not so, said she, because it would be the defilement of the righteousness of a sovereign in me; but they shall be condemned to slavery, and shall raise a rath around me, and it shall be the chief city of Ulster for ever."-Ibid, pp. 82, 83; see also O'Curry's MS. Materials, first ser., p. 527. the miseries of subjugation, nor internal convulsions so violent as to shake its reigning family, for any long time, from their northern throne. During the reign of the prince last named, however, a change was to come; an utter revolution was to be accomplished; and, strange to tell, a plantation of Uladh was to be made in the fourth century more suddenly, if not so sweepingly, as that which took place in the seventeenth century. A few words explanatory of the earlier movement may be required; and, particularly, as the two plantations, though so far distant from each other in point of time, appear to have been almost alike in at least one important aspect. The Ultonians, who were a brave people, and proud of their ancient nationality, had given offence to the chief monarch of Ireland. An ard-righ, simply because of his position, could always command larger resources than any merely provincial king, however popular, and the monarch, at the period to which we refer (A.D. 323), had determined to humiliate the haughty Rudrician nobles with their king. As his instruments in this business, he selected his three nephews, who had given himself serious trouble-even to the thrusting of his family for three years from the throne-and whom, therefore, he felt it necessary to conciliate by at least finding some congenial work for them to do. Unfortunately for Uladh, these warlike brothers had no landed possessions of their own, and this northern province had then become prosperous beyond the other portions of Erin, simply in the wealth which consisted of prodigious flocks and herds. The green fields of Uladh had, in truth, become too tempting to the eyes of the three Collas (8), for by this designation the three brothers are familiarly known in history. Their mother being a princess of Alba (now Scotland), they were able, through this connection, not only to secure the services of many influential kinsmen in that kingdom, but to draw thence a large fragment of the army with which they invaded Ulster. These soldiers from Alba had been brought secretly across the 'Current of the Mull of Cantire,' now the North Channel, and they numbered, with their associates on this side, 7,000 men, in addition to the large force (8). The three Collas.-The names of these three princes were Cairell, Muredhach, and Aedh, but they are known in history as the founders of the great Clann Colla, and familiarly designated The Three Collas, viz., Colla, surnamed Uais, or the 'noble'; Colla, surnamed Meann, or the 'stammerer'; and Colla, surnamed Da Chrioch, a phrase sometimes written Fochri, and translated 'earthy' or 'clay-like.'-(See Eugene O'Curry's Manuscript Materials of Ancient Irish History, p. 72). From an early Irish manuscript account of the Clann-Colla, never printed, we take the following passage, illustrative of the movements mentioned in the text, this extract representing the monarch of Ireland as being actually at war with the Ultonians :-"Colla Uais, son of Eochaidh Doimhlein (or Dubhlein), assumed the sovereignty of Ireland in the year 322, and he was monarch of Ireland for four years, till Muredach Tirech rose with a mighty host and made battle against the three Collas, and banished them into Alba, where they got extensive lands, because Oilech [Aileach], daughter of the king of Alba, was their mother. This happened when Cormac Finn was king of Alba, 362 [322]. They spent some time in Alba, till it happened to Muredach Tirech, the monarch of Ireland, that a war broke out between him and the Ultonians, namely, the Clanna Rudhraighe, and he sent for his brother's children to Alba, to aid him against the Clanna Rudhraighe and This |