out a particle of disguising decoration, rearing his structure heaven-high and slender as a cobweb. The slightest earthquake-shock must, it would seem, tumble it into ruins. One gazes with mingled anxiety and delight at the wonderful interplay of arches, at the daring spring of these leaping stones. And who was their designer? No one knows. Yet, thank Heaven, we have a complete record of Raphael's love affairs and Rembrandt's bar bills! A strange country!

A person traveling through the wastes of Aragon might easily imagine himself upon the moon. He suddenly He suddenly becomes aware of clusters of tiny walled-up hemispheres. They are the chimneys of a subterranean village. Below the people live in burrows like field mice- but the burrows are lighted by electricity.

In the Cathedral at Barcelona a colossal nutcracker hangs suspended from a great arch. The man who hung up this nutcracker in that holy place doubtless had some purpose in his mind. The Spanish people must see some meaning in it. But it is all a mystery to us. In the cloister court of this Cathedral there is a magnificent masonry reservoir where six geese are swimming. They are official geese, and are supported by the Cathedral funds. I asked

the guide, 'What are these geese doing here?' He stared at me with astonishment. 'Don't you know,' he answered, 'that the goose is the only animal that never sleeps?'

Barcelona is full of life- not the loitering life of Madrid idlers, but the busy, energetic life of a great industrial and commercial centre. I have visited handsome, almost too ostentatiously wealthy, residential suburbs lying, as all such quarters do, to the west of the city; and I have taken long walks to the north and the south through crowded workingmen's quarters where the poor line up at midday before the army barracks to get a serving of such rice soup as may be left over after the soldiers are fed. Wealth and poverty, the two typical features of every modern industrial metropolis, are equally present here.

Barcelona claims to be the largest port and the largest city on the Mediterranean, with more than a million inhabitants. It is hard to say how accurate the last figure is. The official enumeration reports only 750,000, but the census is controlled by envious Madrid, and the people of Barcelona insist, with some plausibility, that their city's population is arbitrarily under-reported in order to coddle the pride of the Capital.

[DOCTOR RASMUSSEN took down this old Greenland story from the lips of a Greenland story-teller. It dates from the time of the early explorers, when white visitors were rarer than they are now and when no white men lived among the Eskimos.]

ONCE upon a time there was a great hunter named Pukitsulik whom the people called 'the Dutchman' because he had won great riches from the white men. One day while he was paddling north along the coast in his kayak, he came to a point of land where new snow had fallen, and there he saw a great many fox-tracks. 'Can't I catch some of them in my trap?' he thought to himself, and going on shore he built a trap out of big stones. Several days later he paddled over again to see what had happened at his traps.

Aha, the door had fallen! He peered through a chink and saw two bright eyes staring at him. He went round to the other end and looked in there. What should he see but another fox looking at him with big eyes. The Dutchman slapped his sides and ran down to his kayak to get his long lance and kill the animals. Then he carefully took out a stone and drove his lance straight into the fox's heart. Then he put the stone back and went round to the other side, to kill the other fox. But what was this? There was no fox there! How foolish he had been! Of 1 From the Neue Freie Presse, February 22

course there was only one fox in the trap, but that fox had turned around and made Pukitsulik think he was two. So he took the one magnificent blue fox out of the trap, held him up by the tail and admired him. Then he paddled home with his catch. Pukitsulik had no wife, and so his mother prepared the skin. 'In the country farther north big ships come in every summer,' his mother told him, ‘and the white men are very eager to get blue-fox skins.'

'Hm,' said the Dutchman indifferently, but he remembered what she said all the same, because for a long time it had been his chief desire to own a gun like the white men had. It was winter then, but the spring was coming, and when the time for the long hunts came round the Dutchman built himself a boat.

Now in the same village there lived a great hunter who was a giant and who had a very beautiful daughter. Pukitsulik, whom they called the Dutchman, had already cast his eyes upon her, but he had never asked for her because he knew that her father would not give her up, and he knew, too, that the daughter did not want to be married. Many of the best hunters had come from far and near to marry her, but when she heard their proposals the maiden took them by the shoulders and threw them out of the hut. But at last it was summer and his boat was ready. One day he took his blue-fox skin,

and said:

'Was that true, mother, what you told me about the white men and their ships?'

He spoke very slowly because, while he had been building his boat, he had been thinking of nothing else. His mother assured him that many a man had gained wealth from the white men, and that very evening Pukitsulik prepared for the journey. Next morning he was up earlier than anybody else, and went walking up and down between the huts as if he were struggling with his thoughts. The hunters woke up and went over to hunt, and when the giant had gone away too Pukitsulik pulled his boat down into the water and told his mother to take the paddle. But when he took out another paddle, the mother asked:

'What is that for? You have only me to paddle!' [Among the Greenland Eskimos all paddling is done by women.]

The son made no reply, but went back once more. When his mother saw him going into the house of the big man, she knew what he had in mind, and her whole body began to tremble. Out he came again, carrying the daughter of the strong man like a bundle. The girl screamed fearfully, but Pukitsulik threw her down all the same into the bottom of the boat, jumped in, and told his mother to paddle, while the daughter of the strong man lay in the bottom and shrieked. But when they were out in the open sea, Pukitsulik said to her:

'Now paddle! You will soon be home again!' and then she dried her tears and went to work. After a whole day they came to a illage, where they stopped to rest. When the people came down to the shore, Pukitsulik took care of the women and found them shelter. They stayed there sleeping till the next

vinced that the strong man would follow them, could not close her eyes, and kept going out to look across the sea, and finally she came in, crying:

"The big man is in sight!

Her son seemed quite indifferent, and never budged from the spot. Only when his mother came and said that the strong man was ready to land did he get up and put on the little sausage-skin jacket which he had worn as a child. Down below on the shore he went, walking back and forth with his back to the sea, and when the strong man saw him he threw his harpoon with might and main between Pukitsulik's shoulder blades. The harpoon struck, bounced back, and broke into a thousand pieces. Then the strong man seized his heavy lance which never failed and struck Pukitsulik in the back with all his might. But even his lance fell to earth, useless and shattered. Then the strong man turned around and paddled off home without coming on shore at all. But the spectators, who had come running up, saw, to their amazement, that these terrible blows had not left the least trace on the sausage-skin jacket. Pukitsulik pulled his boat down into the water again and got ready to depart. But when he laid out a third paddle and selected the biggest and prettiest girl in the village, not a soul in the place dared complain. 'She will soon be coming back,' was all he said, and then they started off.

They traveled for three days, and every day he got a new girl to paddle. Finally they reached the coast where the white men used to come with their ships. It was evening when they landed, and a good many men came down to the shore to receive them. Pukitsulik had hardly arrived when the boat was pulled up on the shore. He had hardly time to look around when a tent was put up for him and many people in

vited them to feast with them. But he was silent, because he kept thinking of the great event that was in prospect his meeting with white men. Finally, late in the evening, there was a shout from everyone. All the people came rushing out of their houses, and Pukitsulik did not know what it meant, but finally amid the confusion he heard one word: 'A ship!' When he recovered from his surprise he was sitting all alone on the cliff and looking at a big ship which lay at anchor right in front of his tent. By this time it was night, and everyone had gone to sleep. Early the next morning he went to his mother and made her give him the blue-fox skin and their best sealskins, and when the sun was high in the heavens he decided it was time to visit the ship, and paddled out. But after his kayak was close under the stern he had to wait a long time before a man appeared. Finally a sailor put his head over the railing, and Pukitsulik showed him the beautiful sealskin. An expression of greed came into the eyes of the sailor and he snatched at the skin. Now more and more sailors came on deck, whispering to one another, because they were afraid that the captain would hear them. Some time passed, and finally Pukitsulik pulled out his blue fox in order to close the bargain. He held it before the eyes of the sailors, and they stretched down across the rail. But suddenly the captain appeared. Before anyone noticed him, he scattered the sailors with mighty blows on the back and took the skin away from them. Then Pukitsulik called out that he wanted to come on board, and the sailors, letting down a rope, hoisted him up, kayak and all. But scarcely was he on the deck when he was lost with wonder at all the beautiful buckets that hung along the stern of the ship and between the masts, for he had never seen their like before.

Everything seemed to sway before his eyes, and he came to himself only when he heard a bellow at his ear. The captain had grown impatient, took him by the shoulder, and led him down to his cabin to drive a bargain, but Pukitsulik was still struck with wonder at all the amazing things he saw. His eye fell on a little door leading into another room, but when he tried to walk through it he ran into another man who kept getting into his way, and when he looked at this man he began to tremble all over. It was himself. He did not understand how he could be in two rooms at the same time. Then he noticed hanging on the wall a thing which moved back and forth, ticking. It was a clock. Again Pukitsulik was lost in deep amazement. All this time the captain had been trying in vain to drive a bargain for the fox skin. He had talked and gesticulated, but Pukitsulik was so amazed at all the strange things that he neither heard nor saw what was happening. Finally the captain lost his patience and ordered his sailors to come in. Before Pukitsulik knew what was happening he felt himself lifted by many arms and carried on, but he was so lost in wonder that he found it quite pleasant. "That's the way my mother carried me when I was little,' he thought. The sailors set him in the middle of the deck, tied a rope around his body, and began to hoist him up into the air. What was this?

When Pukitsulik found that they were trying to hoist him up the deck he made himself heavy, but in the end the sailors hauled him up till he swung from the yard. The captain brought an armful of guns from his cabin and divided them among his sailors. They were loaded, and herdered them to stand in a row and shoot at Pukitsulik. The younger sailors began to shoot, but all their bullets were no use against the sausage-skin jacket that Pukitsulik

wore. There he hung up above on the yard and laughed. Finally they got two old sailors to shoot. They seemed somewhat disturbed, because they had never in all their lives had any firearms in their hands. One old sailor came forward seriously with his gun, but when he was ready to shoot he was frightened and he turned his head away. His gun, which was full of rust because it had not been shot much, hit him such a blow as it went off that he fell over backward and lay on the ground. Pukitsulik smiled with delight. Then it was the turn of the other old man. But he had often been told that when you shoot a gun the fire might jump into your eyes, and so he held it so far away from him that the shot blew all over the ship and almost hit the captain. Now the captain saw that all this was worse for him and his sailors than for the Eskimo who hung up above and only laughed. So he let Pukitsulik down again.

Now he was more friendly, and he asked Pukitsulik what he would take for his skins. Pukitsulik pointed to the guns. The captain had them all brought out for him to choose the very best.

There was no end now to the friendliness of the white men, for they thought he must be a sorcerer. They brought him gifts and he piled them all in his kayak. Then he crawled in himself, pulled on his hunting-skin, turned around, and had the sailors lower him into the water. When they cut him loose there was a splash in the water, and everybody thought he would sink. His kayak was so heavily loaded that only his nose appeared above the water. He moved so slowly that nobody on shore noticed him except his mother. 'Look, there comes Pukitsulik!' she cried, though all one could see was a little ripple in the water.

At last he reached the land and his mother pulled him out on shore. The very next day he went home, and on the way back he returned all the young women whom he had borrowed on the way. When he got near his own village he heard that the strong man had fallen sick with grief at losing his daughter, and when they reached him he was dead.

But Pukitsulik lived many years in peace and contentment with the daughter of the strong man.