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You will have time to think of the Salamis, and am waiting for instructions where project by spring, and can then decide as you to proceed; for things are in such a state please. You must not believe the nonsense amongst them, that it is difficult to conjecture about the Hunts residing with me: I do not see where one could be useful to them, if at all, them three times in a month, and they reside at However, I have some hopes they will see their some distance, and if you came to Nice, and I own interests sufficiently not to quarrel till they went there, they would be probably in Tuscany: have rescued their national independence, and at any rate, not near me. The political circum- tben they may fight it out amongst them in dostances of Count Gamba's family I already ex. mestic manner. You may suppose I have someplained to you, and that it is by the English thing to think of at least, for you can have no minister's desire that they are near me, as a idea what an intriguing, cunning, unquiet gene. protection to them for the present. You would ration they are; and as emissaries of all parties see nothiog of them. I must tell you an anec- come to me at present, and I must act im. dote of her, the sister and daughter of the partially, it makes me exclaim as Julian did at Count G When Allegra died, as she (the his military exercises : "Oh! Plato, what a Countess G-) had left everything, and was taste for a philosopher!” However, you won't persecuted by her husband before the Pope, I think much of my philosophy: nor do I, entre wished to bequeath to her the same sum (£5,000) nous .... I am at present in a very pretty I had left in tny will to Allegra; but she refused, village (Metoxata, in Cephalonia), between two in the most positive terms, not only, as she said, monasteries and the sea, with a view of Zante and as a degradation to her, but injustice to my the Morea, waiting for some more decisive intellidaughter and to your children.
gence from the provisional government in Sala
mis .... but here come some visitors'. ...I
Genoa, Feb., 1823. was interrupted yesterday by Col. Napier and the You cannot conceive how such things harass Captain of a King's ship, now in the harbour. me, and provoke me into expressions which Col. N. is resident or governor here, and has I momentarily feel
Your informant been extremely kind and hospitable, as indeed was, as usual, in error. Do not believe all the have been all the English bere. When their lies you may hear. can tell you I have visit was over a Greek arrived on business not lost my teeth hitherto, since I was twelve about this eternal siege of Missolonghi (on the years old, and had a back one taken out by G. coast of Acamania or Etolia) and some convoys Dumergue to make room for others growing; of provisions, which we want to throw in; and, and so far from being fatter, at present I am after this was discussed, I got on horseback. much thinner than when I left England, when I | I brought my horses with me on board (and was not very stout: the latter you will regret ; troublesome neighbours they are in blowing the former you will be glad to hear. can weather) and rode to Argorstuli and back, and tell you all particulars, though I am much re. then I had one of my thunder headaches (you duced since he saw me, and more than you know how my head acts like a barometer when would like. Perhaps we may meet in the spring, there is electricity in the air) and I could not either here or in England. I write to you these resume till this morning. Since my arrival in few lines in haste. says you're coming August I made a tour to Ithaca (which you will out-the best thing which you could do, for take to be Ireland, but if you look into Pope's yourself and me too.
Odyssey you will discover it to be the ancient
name of the Isle of Wight) and over some parts Cephalonia, Oct. 12th, 1823. of Cephalonia . . . There is a clever but
You ask why I come up amongst eccentric man here, a Dr. -, who is very the Greeks. It was stated to me that my so pious, and this in good earnest to make condoing might tend to their advantage, in some verts; but his Christianity is a green ope, for measure, in their present struggle for inde- he says the priesthood of the Church of Eng. pendance, both as an individual and as a mem- land are no more Christians than Mahommed ber of the committee now in England. How or Termagount are. He has made some confar this may be realized I cannot pretend to verts. I suspect rather to the beauty of his anticipate ; but I am wishing to do what I can. wife (who is pretty as well as pious) than of bis They have at length sound leisure to quarrel theology. I like what I have seen of biin; of among themselves, after repelling their other her I know nothing, nor desire to know, having enemies; and it is no very easy part I may have other things to think about. He says that the to play to avoid appearing partial to one or dozen shocks of an earthquake we had the other of their factions. They have turned out other day are a judgment on his audience; but Mavrocudoti, who was the only Washington or this opinion has not acquired proselytes. One Koscuisko kind of man amongst them, and they of the shocks was so prolonged that, though have not yet sent their deputies to London to not very heavy, we thought ihe house would treat about a loan, nor in short done themselves come down; and as we have a staircase to dis80 much good as they might have done. 1mount out of the house (the buildings here are have written to Mr. three several times, different from ours) it was judged expedient by with a budget of documents on the subject, the inmates (all men, please to recollect, as if from which he can extract all the urgent in- there had been females we must have helped formation for the committee at Tussolizza and them, or broken our bones for company) to make an expeditious retreat into the courtyard. her life, but there is no saying what might Who was first out of the door I know not; but arrive in the ricourse of the war (and of such a when I got to the bottom of the stairs, I found war) and I shall probably 'commit her to the several arrived before me, which could only charge of some English lady in the islands for have happened by their jumping out of the the present. The lehila herself has the same balustrade or bannisters) rather than in the for her 'äge Isa loy! t'merely wish her to be
seems have a regular way of descent. The scene was ludi- respectably educated and treated, and if my crous enough; bat we had several more slight years and all things berconsidered 1°presame shocks in the night, but stack quietly to our it would be vdifficult to consider me to have beds, for it would have been of no use moving, other views ?7.974 79 The preference 'to prose as the house would have been down first
, had it (strange as it may now seem was and indeed is been to come down at all. There was no mine (for I hate reading verse and always did) great damage done in the island, except an old and I never invented (as a chilů) anything but house or two cracking in the middle; but the boats, ships and generally something relative soldiers on parade were lifted up as a boat is by to tlie ocean' :777V. But it is also fit though the tide, and you would have seen the whole unpleasant that I should mention that my recent line waving (thougb no one was in motion) by attack, and a very severe one, had a strong apthe heaving of the ground on which they were pearance of epilepsy. Why, Mknow not, for it drawn up. You can't complain of this being a is late in life, its first appearance at thirty-six, brief letter • at his present age and so far as I know it is not hereditary, and
it I have no idea that I had many feelings or no. is that it may not become "80 that you should tions which people would not believe if I stated tell My attack has not returned, and them now, and therefore I may as well keep I am fighting it off with abstinence and exerthem to myself. Is he social or solitary, taci. cise, and thus far with successo if merely tumn or talkative! fond of reading or otherwise ? casual it is all very well. am avto hi
.... I hope that the gods have made him anything save poetical. It is enough to have one such fool in a family Missolonghi, Jan. 23rd, 1824.
199** TRUE LOVE. Burton I received a few days ago your
7:37.-19,11 TO CODY 9m of an letters, for which I ought to be and am suffi. 16 BY BLIZABETH TOWNBRIDGE. 67 ciently thankful, as they were of great comfort
14 I poppy ref: 750 and I wanted some, having been recently un- What though they tell me in fàncý you range from me, well, but am now much better, so you need not Pledging to others a lightly breath'd vow be alarmed ....You will have heard of Never has time found one shadow of change in me, our journeys and escapes, and so forth, perhaps True as when first we met is my love now with some exaggeration; but it is all very well Every hope in my fond heart that trembles, *: now; and I have been some time in Greece,
Into its timid life twines around you, somus which is in as good a state as could be ex Every jealous pang that heart disembless,ti 2 pected, considering circumstances; but I will
E'en to itself will not own you untrue, 4 s. not plague you with politics, wars, or earth
001,9m os serey quakes, though we had another very smart one Love, who would call it love, meanly to doubt you, three nights ago, which produced a scene True love is my love, though grieving without you,
petty fears, still on your track; ridiculous enough, aš no damage was done, Still leaping to joyous life; hailing you back. except to those who stuck fast in the scuffle to Ever around my lips deepening each dimple
, get first out of the doors and windows, amongst "As my glad smiles speak my welcome to ynios whom some recent importations fresh from Nought do I care, that say I am simple, 37029 England, who had been used to quieter 'ele. ments, were rather squeezed in the press for
Ago ni won 91/imonos 9d 18 precedence. I have been obtaining the Whát though you left me for aye on the morrow, release of about nine-and-twenty Turkish Wedding another for choice or for gold; 16 prisoners-men, women, and children-Land Silently bearing its' burden of sorrow, 16 have sent them, at my own expense, home to Still should my love live on deep als untold ; their frieads ; but one, a pretty little girl of Loving you (ever, far from me or near to me, . nine years of age, named Hato or Halayée, has Ever more seeking your weal, not my own, expressed a strong wish to remain with me, or using on all the sweet?time I was dear, to you, under my care, and I have nearly determined to
Until I dreamed it could never have flown... adopt her .. If not I can send her to
II.ary to bylVis! Italy for education. She is very lively, and Plucking the hopes from my own life to lay them quick, and with great black oriental eyes and Asking but one loving look to repay them,
In all their freshuess my own at your feet; Asiatic features. Her mother wishes to re
One loving word to make bitterness sweet ; turn to her husband, but says that
Now, love, you smile at me; nay, not smiling only, she would rather entrust the child to me in
For to please the fond folly that loves them to hear, the present state of the country. Her ex. You speak the sweet words to cheer me when lonely, treme youth and her sex have hitherto saved In my heart's depths you only are dear.
It became a matter of doubt which was the upper parts were all built of wood: they were most pleasant sceneto travel in, or most refreshing very numerous. Such picturesque sites and ‘and exhilarating to the spirits; the loveliness of romantic views arrested the attention every few the verdure which rests upon the plains of the yards, that I suppose an artist could not possiNorth of Italy, where the sunny soil is blessed bly find better work for his pencil than in this with the most benign of climates, and where most striking country. In the small valleys
the herbage and the verdure were most pro. " Il paese intoro,
lific. They were making hay all through the E il sen del abondanza,"
country as we passed, both this and the follow
ing day. We ascended to the Spleugen. This or the romantic wildness of Switzerland. After pass is the highest point, at which we arrived this the lake widens, and we got on to Mag- at during our journey. Here we could gather gonico. Then we arrived at Dongo, and after the snow in the drifts of the roads, and the air wards Gravedona. This last is quite a little city,a was exceedingly cold. No pen could describe, sort of Naples to. Como. At a small village, where a picture alone, or could portray this wild, the steamer came to a wharf, and we landed and savage, and romantic scenery: the hanging took the diligence to a place called Chiavenna. The forests on the sides of the mountains, the change of conveyance, and a long drive, and the frowning cliffs rising one over the other. Of the being cooped up in a close carriage, was dis whole that I saw I thought that the narrow agreeable after the pure air of the lake, causeway just immediately before the entrance The same German young lady accompanied of the Spleugen, the finest we met with. Here us, and her explanations and remarks made the the trees, in luxuriant abundance, grew from time pass away. We arrived at Chiavenna at every rock or broken cleft in the rock by the 7 P.M. The next morning we began the re- side of the yawning precipice. We dined at gular travelling in Switzerland. We started in Spleugen and then, or indeed a short time before, the diligence at half past four in the morning commenced our descent. This was much and it gradually got brighter until at five we easier travelling, but the finest and most could see the fine vista of mountains which we majestic scenery which is to be met with in the were coming to. I got out and walked to Alps, perhaps, is what we passed through on Campo dulcino, which is a sorry, looking our descent. The gloomy grandeur, the stuplace and scarcely deserves its name--but here pendous precipices, the narrow causeways, and begins the grand outline of the Alpine scenery, the hanging forests of the Via Mala, have been Shortly after we had passed this, we began to frequently described. Below, in the deepest ascend by the winding ascents or zigzags in recess of the abyss, the Rbine first commencing the roads, which are placed in such an inge- its course, is here such a small stream as to be nious manner that the most precipitous moun- almost unnoticed. Sometimes like a giant's tain is ascended with comparatively little labour. fortress, crowned at the top with innumerable The monument erected to the engineer who trees, the circular rocks rise reaching nearly to mastered this gigantic work, is placed at the the clouds ; sometimes an enormous mass, lookbeginning of the pass. The river (the Leera) ing as it were cleft by a wedge of Titanic mag. flows at the bottom of the valley; and, running nitude, lay close to the narrow causeway-the through craggy stones and down narrow des. spot called the Middle Bridge is particularly cents, gives a sort of break to the gloom of the remarkable. The jutting rocks in some parts sombre mountains. About half-way up the oftheroad render it most terrific to look at : these zigzags we came to a cascade called the Azzuno, scenes present pictures ofthe most sublime, awwhich was narrow, but gushed from a vast ful, and wonderful features, where the grotesqueheight. A little further on a large torrent ness of tae natural convulsions "charm the eye rushed headlong in a vast sheet of whitened with dread,” We passed on to Andeer, a water, whose foamy flash contrasted vividly delightful little village, and through Thurric
, with the dark rocks and sombre forests—this is which had been rebuilt a new and clean-looking called the Pianazzo. We saw all these parts of town, to the valley of the Rhine. We passed the scenery to perfection, as we were outside on onward to Reichenau, the village which is rethe top of a large conveyance which of necessity markable as containing the school-house in went slowly. When I got out and walked, the which poor Louis Philippe acted as usher for peasantry took off their hats as I passed. They eight months. The great cultivation and the were all neatly dressed, but their clothes homely well-inhabited state of the country were remarklooking in point of material. Their cottages in the able.
We arrived at Coire at half-past seven, P.M. we had been travelling in for some days before. This is a dull, remote Swiss town: the charges Here orchards of fruit-trees also abounded. at a wretched ion where we were shown into - The German habit of laying out the grounds in a room which had numerous parties of plantations of nearly every sort of production police and other parties of the hoi-polloi, which the climate will admit of, here struck our sitting smoking and eating in it, and the rude notice. We saw thus planted, or springing up and uncoath manners of the servants—rendered after having been sown, vines, Indian-corn, this place disagreeable. We heard here a des- tobacco, potatoes, marsh-mallows, hemp, cription of the great works which had brought turnips, clover, filax, and many other sort of so many hands into labour in coasummaling productions, without a wall, a hedge, ditch, or the access to the Spleugen-pass, as well as its any land-mark to separate them. We arrived descent; this was the chief topic of conversa- at Shauffhausen about twelve in the day. We tion with all parties. Certainly, in point of took the diligence for Fribourg at three in the con versation, the lower order of the foreigners afternoon. We passed near the falls of the in Switzerland, France and Italy, excel our Rhine but could not get a view of them. All rustics in Great Britain and Ireland. Here we the way for about ten or twelve miles we had a stayed during the night, and the next morn- most extensive and open prospect of the line of ing started again in the diligence at 5 A.M. very flat country on each side of the road. The We travelled through an exceedingly abundant extensive tracts, as before on the road from and fertile country: fruit trees in all direc- Zurich to Shauffhausen, were dotted with the tions, and the apple orchards more plentiful different colours of the produce of the soil, but than any others. The people who travelled with the fields undivided by any land-marks. with us in the diligence told us that, on account At nightfall we arrived at the Black of the cold which prevailed during the last | Forest—that gloomy and tremendous scene, month, they feared the fruit would be spoiled. | where the black and massive woods bring T'he country people appeared very contented and to ones mind the romances of the Gern.anhappy. Wben we arrived at the lake Wallen, writers. The fine, clear moon-light shining over stein we got into a very pretty steamer : round these masses of dense forest had a very grand the lake the scenery was picturesque and the effect. The epithet of Byron," horribly beaucountry fertile; it also abounds in fruit trees. tiful,” seemed to me not unjust as applied to Indian-corn seemed to be the most commonly such a picture. At the further end of where sown of anything : potatoes we saw but very our road passed it, we came to precipitous cliffs, few of ; apple-orchards in such numbers that I where the frowning masses of rock seemed to am surprised that the inhabitants do not make threaten the small valley beneath with destruccider. On landing from Lake Wallenstein we tion. I should have been glad to have lingered had the option of taking an omnibus or of some little time longer at the place; for, travelling by a canal boat through the narrow although we certainly got a fine idea of it by strait which runs between the lakes Wallen- the light that we saw it in, yet we bad not stein and Zurich; we preferred the former. time to dwell much upon each particular Still the same rich and beautiful country until feature of the scene. On our way they would we reached Zurich. The canal-boat we not permit us to stay longer than two or three sidered to be likely to be so close and confined minutes at each place where they changed that we were rejoiced to have an opportunity of horses. At these places we could only get breathing the fresher air, and seeing the delight- bread and beer. We went into one of them ful country which lies between the two cities : where we saw a number of German soldiers the lake Zurich does not, however, present any smoking and drinking beer. From the atmosvery particular objects of attraction, and, com- phere of this place we fled for shelter to the pared with other lakes, is tame. We got to interior room : at the same time as we entered the town of Zurich, which is a central situation, some German young ladies came in screaming, at six in the evening. This is a clean, nice, laughing, and scarcely able to contain themand comfortable town: there are, however, no selves with ebullition of spirits. The phlegm of buildings of any kind to attract particular at- the men contrasted in the most lively manner tention. The inn was a good one, and the with the animation of the women: two of the number of travellers at the different tables of latter were also in the carriage with us during the public room made it very lively. We heard the remainder of the journey. We also picked many accounts of the Swiss life; of the way in | up a young American, who, like most of his which the inbabitants of all parts of Switzer-countrymen whom one meets abroad, was a land take when young to gymnastics ; of the great traveller, and he acted as interpreter to us robust and healthful frames which they generally when we wanted to speak to the ladies, as we possess. We heard several travellers descant knew not German. We remarked the extrawith enthusiasm upon the beauties of Swiss ordinary caps which the German women wear, scenery. Certainly, in the different traits which the black wings of which are like ininiature windconstitute romantic scenery, the country stands mills. These rustic beauties in face and appre-eminent.
pearance seemed healthy and blooming. The next day we took the diligence which We reached Fribourg at eleven at night. starts for Schaffhausen, which led us through a Here we had an opportunity of remarking the country of a much fatter kind than any which l extraordinary sort of bedding with which the
German beds are supplied—a very large feather- , sides of this noble river, the remains of feudal bed, with another over it, and one sleeps be- castles, and the vine-clad hills, as well as the diftween them; not comfortable, nor yet service- ferent sites of celebrity that are mostly to be met
able is such an arrangement. I hate feather- with in the voyage from Manheim to Cologre. - beds in toto, and this is a surfeit of them to At the last place we decided upon leaving the their most luxurious admirers.
steamer. Then we saw, as we passed along, the The next morning was a holiday, so we had series of heights, for the most part crowned an opportunity from the windows of seeing the with large castles and numbers of towns which population of the town to perfection. Soldiers lie in the lowlands at intervals close to the in great numbers, in blue, short, single-breasted water's edge. For the most part, the greatest surtouts, with both swords and bayonets, a want which I observed was that of trees. Vine. helmet of a sort of square build, covered with a yards, it is true, were numerous, and we regood deal of brazier-work, and with peaks be marked principally the extreme care that was fore and behind. · The top of this helmet is taken in planting the vines and tending them, crowned with a brazen spike. We saw some as well as the labour used in preparing the earth others in a handsome dress of green, with epau- necessary for their culture in the almost inacces. lettes and a helmet like our dragoon-hel. sible rocks. But, for grand forest scenery-of met.
that there was little or none. The castles, nuIn the public room where we breakfasted merous as they were, seemed none of them several youths entered shortly after we did, models of architecture. Their situation as a evidently gentlemen, with knapsacks on their feature in a sketch, and their history as given backs, and they sat down as orderly as grown- illustrative of the feudal manners of the middle up-people.
ages, are no doubt both of them interesting in We saw the outside of the Fribourg Cathe- their way. Murray's handbook tells the tale dral, whose spire and fretted Gothic architec. which is attached to each baronial residence. ture is very fine. The framework around the From Manheim to Mayence the scecery steeple is most remarkable for the workman- was flat. I remarked the admirable construcship of the fretted stone. At the door of the tion of the floating bridges on the Rhine, which hotel we were accosted by a laquais de place, are constructed by a succession of boats over and he addressed us with a request that we should which a platform is raised. On the approach accept of his guidance to the cathedral. “Dis of a steamer or of a vessel, the centre of these caddedral ave de doo dure den dare Vestmin. is moved away. The tête de pont of Castel is stare ave de boot won.” I could confidently fine. I think that Johannisberg is the ugliest recommend this man to any English person who building I ever saw. The view of the different wishes to be amused during the stay he may make castles on the heights as one passes even ex: at Fribourg ; but for ourselves we regretted ceeded my expectations. Of these I remarked that we had not time to linger here longer, the castles of Rheinstein, Rossel, Bishop Hatto's, or to accept of his services. We set off by the Furstenberg, Mallingen Steplík, a very plain, train at 10 a.m., and found it, compared with homely-looking castle in the centre of an island others, a very shaky conveyance. We read of the same name, called Pfalz. The Lurlie, Murray by the way, that most complete factotum famous for its echo, I also heard ; and saw of intelligence. He even mentions the circum. surrounding heights and beauties, while the stance of a monument being erected over the rest of the passengers were engaged in the remains of Stultz, the tailor, at Hippenheim. more substantial business of dinner-eating. I Some little way before we arrived at Heidelberg heard numerous orders given about the sorts of there was a monument at some distance from Rhenish wine which the different parties called the road, which was in the form of a column, for; but I preferred for this day staying on erected to the memory of Marshal Turenne, and deck, and seeing what was to be seen. Gratensaid to be raised upon the ground that he stood fels-Shoensberg, that beautiful Gothic chapel of on at the time that he was struck with the Werner, called Leenak. Marksberg, a truly cannon-ball. At 6 we arrived at Manheim. beautiful and picturesque castle, Stockenfells, Here we intended to halt for the night, and to with its fine fresco or Mosaic outside it (I was take the steamer the next morning, for the going unable to see which of the twoit had), then we came down the Rhine. There is not much to interest to Ehrenbreitstein : this Byron's poetry mademe one at Manheim. The hotel was a large one, most anxious to see. At present it is more reand I was not a little amused at finding that markable for its strength than beautiful for its nearly all the individuals who assembled in its outline. Opposite this is the fine town of spacious dining-room were English, lifeguards. Coblentz._Frederickstein castle is very intemen, fashionables, infantry officers, invalid éle- resting. Every height and nearly every buildgants, and it seemed, in point of fact, a réunion ing has its full description in the guideof parties who had arrived from London. I met book. I omit noticing the modern towns, or amongst old friends officers with whom I had the buildings of a recent date; but when been on service in the Ionian Islands. The we came to Drachenfels, I certainly anticipated next day we embarked early, in the steamer something much more surprising than what called the Germania. I had long been most I saw. The building is, notwithstanding fine, anxious and curious to view the scenery on both and picturesque. But comparing it with