Oldalképek
PDF
ePub
[blocks in formation]

Bedding, to be put up in a painted canvass bag.

Writing materials, razors, combs, &c. put up in a small convenient box.

On your arrival in Asia or Egypt, you must provide yourself with a scimitar, and complete Turkish or Arab dress, and not be unmindful of warm under-clothing, for during the night and the morning it is extremely cold. The head and feet should in particular be kept warm.

All the articles mentioned may very easily be put up in a small compass, and increased according to the number in the party. The wine is the only thing of a bulky nature, and to avoid its being so is totally impossible: the best way is to be sparing and moderate in the use of it. One thing you must be reminded of, that you cannot depend on either good wine or good tea, after leaving Europe: all the Levant wines are sweet and cloying; those of Syria full of sediment, poor, and without flavour. To a traveler who means to be economical, many articles in the foregoing list must be dispensed with, and which must be reduced to the following:

'One coat and waistcoat, with six shirts.

A hat and traveling cap.

A black stock.

Two pair of half-boots.

Two pair of strong pantaloons.

• A great coat.

[ocr errors]

Bedding, to consist of a carpet, a blanket, and coverlid.

Six pair of stockings.

A pair of pistols and short fowling piece to sling over the shoulder, with the necessary ammunition.

A drinking mug.

[blocks in formation]

A razor, strop, soap, paper, and writing materials, put up in a small compass.

• Articles of living, as few as possible, without wine.

• All these must be packed up in the smallest way possible, and I would prefer a strong bag to any other mode of conveyance. On the arrival of the traveler in Asia, he must disencumber himself of all his European dress and any other superfluities, and, until his arrival in India, wear nothing costly or attractive: a stranger may in this manner reach India in the most perfect security. Should he prefer

a more magnificent style than either of those I have pointed out, it also may be accomplished by the means of much additional expense.

'It will require little ingenuity to discover the mode by which the expense may be enhanced: it will be done by multiplying ad libitum the number of servants, tents, camels, horses, and luxuries for the table, with a long list of articles both expensive and unnecessary, and tending to stimulate the passion of avarice when it ought to be suppressed.' P. 8.

He afterwards advances rules for the preservation of health, which seem to be useful and judicious.

• Colds

Are common to all countries, from morning and evening air. The best remedy is a few grains of Dr. James's powder; bathing the feet before going to bed in warm water with a little salt, or in sea-water.

Coughs.

Coughs succeed colds. If violent, bleeding is necessary; if not, a purge first, and then a little honey or syrup, and tincture of opium may be useful: 120 drops of the latter to two ounces of the former; a tea-spoonful three or four times a day.

"Fevers.

If not of the infectious kind, but if inflammatory, bleeding, Dr. James's powder every six hours in small doses, and half an ounce of nitre dissolved in a quart of water, as drink, will soon remove the complaint.

If delirium and other dangerous symptoms should attend, blistering the back, camphor and powdered snake-root will be proper, six grains of the former and fifteen of the latter every four or six hours. The intestines always to be kept open by a little salts and manna, magnesia and rhubarb, or senna tea.'

P. 20.

When our author, or the physician whom he consulted, describes, p. 32, the cholera morbus, as being a vomiting of bile, attended with obstinate costiveness, he surely mistakes the very nature of the disease.

The remaining calculations of expenses, &c. will be found useful by those who choose to travel over land to India; but being wholly uninteresting to others, the advantage must be of a very confined nature. The recollection must of course induce us to abridge our further extracts. Among the articles more generally interesting, may be placed the following receipts.

Turkish Manner of making Coffee.

'Coffee to be good must either be ground to an almost impalpable powder, or it must be pounded as the Turks do, in an iron mortar with a heavy pestle. The Turks first put the coffee dry into the coffee pot, and set it over a very slow fire, or embers, till it is warm and sends forth a fragrant smell, shaking it often; then from another pot they pour on it boiling water (or rather water in which the

grounds of the last made coffee had been boiled and set to become clear); they then hold it a little longer over the fire, till there is on its top a white froth like cream, but it must not boil, but only rise gently; it is then poured backwards and forwards two or three times from one pot into another, and it soon becomes clear. Some put in a spoonful of cold water to make it clear sooner, or lay a cloth dipt in cold water on the top of the pot. Coffee should be roasted in an open earthen or iron pan, and the slower it is roasted the better. As often as it crackles it must be taken off the fire. The Turks often roast it in a baker's oven while it is heating.

• To make Yeast in the Turkish Manner.

Take a small tea-cup full, or wine-glass full of split or bruised pease, pour on it a pint of boiling water, and set the whole in a vessel all night on the hearth, or any other warm place; the water will have a froth next morning, and will be good yeast. The above quantity will make as much bread as two quartern loaves.' P. 112.

Colonel Taylor's account of his own journey in the East is amusing, and agreeably relieves the tediousness of some other details: nor can we wholly prætermit his adventures at Antioch.

In proceeding to the caravanserai, we were assailed by the people in the most vile terms of reproach. Mrs. Taylor was taken hold of by the arm, and, with a degree of brutal violence, attempted to be pulled from her horse: one of the servants luckily held her fast, but her arm bore testimony of the rude manner in which the fellow be haved.

My Italian servant was seized by the coat, but a spirited stroke from his horsewhip made the fellow quit his hold. The black was more roughly treated, and he had the imprudence to present his pistol at one of the most daring. I severely reprehended him for his folly, 'considering the brutality of the people, and their dislike to Chris. tians; if any accident had happened, it would most undoubtedly have proved fatal to the whole party. In turning the corner of a street, a young fellow attempted to snatch away my whip; neither did he relinquish it till after some struggle between us. I have given some features of the inhabitants of Antioch, and what a traveler may -expect. I would advise avoiding the town, and rather to seek any shelter than that of so inhospitable a place. A tent would have been a thousand times preferable, but this we had not. Another thing that perhaps made against us, was the European dress; it would be "therefore better to appear à la Turque as soon as possible after your Larrival in Syria.

• The Armenian received us politely in his hall of audience. He was in company with two or three of his friends, smoaking the Turkish pipe, with a bottle of aniseed water before him, from which they made frequent libations. Being seated on a carpet in the Eastern style, he ordered our baggage to his house, and a repast to be prepared. After having assisted us in settling with the guide for the hire of our horses, he very civilly requested we would refresh ourselves for a day or two with him; this we declined, and requested

his interference to procure us conveyances in the morning at an early hour. Orders were accordingly given, with every promise of assistance on his part.

At seven o'clock supper was announced. It consisted of several dishes, composed chiefly of fish dressed in different ways, according to the mode of the country. They were placed on a large silver waiter, raised about a foot from the carpet, on which the company sat in a circular manner. Our party consisted of our host, the old Armenian, his son, one of his friends, and ourselves. Abundance of bread was thrown at the feet of the guests, but there was neither knife, fork, nor spoon. Our entertainer helped the company liberally with his right hand, which he had previously washed for the purpose. The mode in which this repast was conducted appeared to us truly laughable. The hearty manner in which our friend applied his hand, with the sleeve of his gown tucked up to his elbow, into a large dish, and transferred the viands, not without some violence, to our plates, and this too without asking or waiting our consent, formed a striking contrast to the delicacy of European manners.

Notwithstanding this seeming want of cleanliness, great regard was paid to ablution. Water from a silver ewer, and clean towels, were served to the company both before and after supper. Our drink consisted of the thick wine of the country, something resembling bad Madeira, before it is, made fine; and upon the whole we made a very tolerable meal. Supper being ended, the company retired to the opposite corner of the room, where pipes were prepared, and we sat down to enjoy the Asiatic luxury of smoaking.

After a short time spent in this way, we were visited by an itinerant Italian physician, dressed in a most whimsical manner: he wore a very formal wig, a cocked hat, large whiskers, with a red silk Turkish gown, under which appeared some other clothes, partly European and partly Turkish. He was extremely inquisitive for news, particularly of the war between the emperor and the Turks. He assured me that all Syria would rejoice at the success of the former, as it yielded the inhabitants a prospect of better times. This poor man seemed sensibly affected at the miseries of the Syrians, of whom he spoke handsomely, and added that their poverty prevented the effects of their generosity towards him. He was extremely desirous to return to Italy; but, alas! like many others, he had cutlived his friends, and was now doomed to roam through the plains of Syria, in order to pick up a miserable pittance by his skill in curing the disorders incident to these inhospitable climes. He appeared to be respected by our host, though Lafterwards understood, that, like a number of vagrants and wanderers of his country, some faux pas of his youth was more than an objection against visiting his native land. To the honour of the English nation, adventurers of doubtful history from foreign countries are every where to be met with, in all parts of the Turkish empire, whilst we rarely find an Englishman, who, like them, are [is] groveling in a country of slaves, exposed to scorn, and liable to every insult degrading to the human mind.

The physician having taken leave, with many compliments and wishes for our success, chairs were placed in the area of the building, which, like all the eastern houses of consequence, was surrounded by

a high wall, secured with a strong gate. Here the smoaking was continued, and we were joined by an Armenian, who appeared as droll, or merry-andrew, a character common in all the coffee-houses in the Turkish dominions, whose business it is to divert the company. He displayed numberless antic gestures, and possibly expressed many witty sayings, if I may judge from the immoderate mirth of the spectators. This amusement continued till ten o'clock, when beds or mattresses were spread on the carpet of the hall, with comfortable pillows, and we laid ourselves down to rest.

The variety of this day would have afforded ample compensation for its fatigues, could the unpleasant sensation that remained on our minds, arising from the conduct of the people of Antioch, have been effaced. Safe and comfortable within our castle, for such is the house of every man in this country, we rejoiced in being no longer subject to those insults and impertinences to which remaining at the caravanserai undoubtedly would have subjected us; and we were happy to think that the morning's sun would convey us from a place we had so much reason to dislike.

Early the next day coffee was served by a very pretty Armenian girl, daughter-in-law to our host. She was fair, and seemed, by her little attentions, desirous to please. Her fine black hair hung down her back in a hundred small plaits, whilst her forehead and breast were adorned with chequins. Her dress consisted of the Turkish drawers, and a long robe, which from her neck reached to her heels, made of a kind of silk and cotton stuff, intermixed with flowers of gold. She wore no covering on her head, and, unlike those of her sect in India, no handkerchief to cover her mouth. On her feet she had a pair of Turkish slippers, which she pulled off as she approached the company of the men. She did not eat, or even sit down to table with her husband; but what was to me still more astonishing, was, to perceive this seemingly delicate woman solacing herself in the morning with a plentiful cup of aniseed-water.

My fair countrywomen will no doubt condemn the slavery in which the eastern ladies are maintained, and pleasingly reflect on the difference of their situation, which at once stamps them the compa nion of man, formed to be the partner of his prosperity or his cares, a relief to his woes, and the support and comfort of his old age. Continue then by your conduct to deserve that admiration so deservedly your due, and to support that character which places you so distinguishedly above all your sex, whether in the courts of Europe, the sequestered apartments of eastern monarchs, or the more humble spheres of private life!' P. 167.

Our author's knowledge of Persia only extends to a few miles round Abousheer: and a good journey through Persia is still much wanted.

We have had repeated occasion to mention colonel Taylor's productions, and, upon the whole, must express our esteem for his spirit of enterprise and love of literature; but we have · often had occasion also to wish that he would consult some literary friend before he commits himself to the public tribunal.

« ElőzőTovább »