dying hatred. But, on the whole, they next the Archbishop of Paris and a numwere but sorry apes of the men of '93; ber of other more or less known eccleand one of their few merits was the siastics and public men had been shot in frankness with which they told the the prison where they had been contruth about each other. One saw a fined since the early days of the insurrecgood deal of them in London during tion. Civilization seemed to have gone subsequent years; and I think many of back four or five centuries. Even the us must still remember the amenities men of St. Bartholomew and those of with which any eminent Cummunard August and September had drawn the would usually receive any mention of a line short of deliberate incendiarism. colleague's name.

Excited as one was, what could be Such as they were, however, they im- nore natural than the desire to posed on the people of Paris, and for something of the scene in which these ten weeks, as has been said, the world events had been taking place before resaw the amazing spectacle of a trained turning order had restored everything army, practically unlimited in

to the decorum of a modern capital? sources, vainly endeavoring, with the Thus when, in the late afternoon of passive assistance of its recent con- Saturday, June 3, I left the departquerors, to capture a city held by prob- ment in which I then held a subordinate ably less than a fourth of its numbers, post, and considered how I could best entirely devoid of skilled leadership, pass the time until my services should and not even beginning to recover from be again required on Monday morning, a three months' blockade. It was not it was not strange that my thoughts until Sunday, May 21, that the first should have turned towards Paris. Versailles troops ventured within the After the necessary change of garments fortifications of Paris. Then followed and a hasty dinner I accordingly made a week of horrors to which it would be my way to Victoria station. The raildifficult to find a parallel. Street by way service was still disorganized, and street the Parisians retired, fighting the ticket-clerk entirely declined to stubbornly. No quarter was given. In give me a return ticket-on the ground, the matter of panic there was little to so far as I could make out, that my rechoose between the two sides, and a turn was somewhat doubtful. One Frenchman in a panic is perhaps the would have supposed that this would most bloodthirsty creature this have made it all the more desirable to earth. Prisoners were indeed taken by secure the return fare in advance; but the invading troops, but not prisoners in the matter of return tickets the railwith arms in their hands. Indeed, the way official mind, as all the world possession of a pair of "ammunition” knows, has its own peculiar laws of boots is said to have been equivalent to logic. a death-warrant. By the middle of the There was a fair number of passenweek the defenders had lost all their gers, mostly French. On the steamer, leaders of any experience whatever, and however, I fell in with a friend, bound such orders as were given were merely on the same errand as myself; though, the counsels of frenzy. Two or three if I remember right, being an artist, he young men of the lowest type which had something more practical in view Paris produces were practically than the mere gratification of curiosity. preme. If we can imagine the govern- It was a fortunate meeting for me, ment of a great city, at a moment when since he had a friend living in Paris all passions were excited to the utmost, who had been there throughout both placed in the hands of a few vicious and sieges, and proved a most efficient showuneducated schoolboys, we can conceive man. something of the state of Paris during On landing at Calais we were made to the days from May 24 to May 29, 1871. give up our passports, and bidden to reEvery edition of the newspaper's claim them at the station. Here I fore. brought the report of fresh horrors. saw trouble-indeed, probable ejection One day the Hôtel de Ville and other from France by the first boat; for public buildings had been burnt. The though I had put an old passport in my

VOL, XV. 770






pocket I had not bad time to get it tue door-post, and shot her then and visé, and I understood that the regula- there.” Similar incidents, it is to be tions were strict on this head. How- feared, were not uncommon. Small ever, I handed the ducument to the wonder that every man and woman of gendarme, and hoped for the best. We the working classes whom-I saw that were directed to a small room adjoin- day in Paris was casting on the soldiers ing the station, in which official, with whom the city was swarming-one seated at a table, was examining the person in every three whom one met passports by the dim light of a candle was in uniform-glances of such hatred or two. A pile of them lay in front of as showed that “the red fool-fury of the him, and the space on our side of the Seine,” though smothered for the time, table was crowded. My own passport was not in the least quenched. was in a leather pocket-book, with my One thing by which we were struck name stamped on the flap. My friend was the care with which all the immeO'C— caught sight of it in the heap, diate traces of the carnage had been and pointed it out to me as I stood be- cleared away. Only a week ago men hind him. Slipping my hand under his had been slaughtering each other by arm, while the official engaged hundreds in some of the streets through with another passport, I secured mine which we passed. Barricades, or fragand walked boldly out into the station, ments of them, were still standing; holding it up to the gendarme at the blackened streaks beside every window door; who, seeing me in undisturbed on the upper floor, all pointing in the dipossession of it, naturally concluded rection from which the troops had adthat it was en règle.

vanced, .gave mute evidence of the reThe rest of the journey to Paris was sistance which had been offered to uneventful, but even more jolty than them; but throughout the day we saw usual, owing to the line having been nothing which could suggest the stain taken up in many places for strategic of blood. One most ghastly piece of purposes, and relaid somewhat hur- testimony, however, to what had been riedly. At the point where it crosses going on we met with more than once. the Oise the bridge had been destroyed, Now and again we crossed places where and we were taken on a temporary line the pavé had obviously been taken up all of rails down the steep bank to the level across the street, to a breadth of six of tne stream, and across on a highly or seven feet, and hastily relaid, and temporary timber structure. We did where the roadway seemed to yield not, I think, reach Paris very much somewhat to the pressure of the wheels. later than the usual time in those days “The other day," said Mr. 0-, I -about 7 A.M.

chanced to turn over one of the stones We were met at the station by Mr. at a place like this with my walking 0%, the friend above mentioned, and stick, and saw a human face gazing up after a wash and breakfast at a little at me." Hundreds of the dead bad hotel, which he indicated to us, been provisionally buried in this way, started on a round of inspection. The and at these spots the road was literally first thing was to find a fiacre, not such laid on corpses. When I was again in an easy matter as it is in the normal Paris, three weeks later, nothing of this condition of Paris, for the two sieges was to be seen. had terribly reduced the stock of horses. A. the intersection of the Rue Royale You cannot eat your horse and drive and Rue Saint-Honoré, all the corner him too. However, vehicle

houses had been burnt out. The upper found, and we drove about the town. floors seemed in some cases to have

As we went down the Boulevard fallen in before the flames reached Malesherbes, in which Mr. O— lived, them, for here and there articles could he pointed to a doorway, on the posts of still be seen hanging to the smoked which bulletmarks were visible. “Two walls far above. I particularly rememor three days ago,” he said, “I saw some ber a frying-pan and crinoline, which soldiers go into that house. They had evidently formed part of the propbrought out a woman, set her against erty of a resident on the fifth or sixth






floor of one of these lofty buildings. that on mentioning to my colleagues There they swung helplessly on their where I had been since we parted on nails high up against the summer sky. the Saturday, I was met with remarks

Of the Hôtel de Ville the blackened savoring of incredulity. There were no walls were standing; but the less solidly “club trains," it must be remembered, built Tuileries .was a mass of débris, a quarter of a century ago. still smoking. The latter building Three weeks later I started for my could indeed well be spared. Its his- annual holiday, and was able to take torical memories were neither very an

rather more time in Paris. I spent a cient nor very splendid; and its good deal of it in wandering about St. moval, with the consequent opening up Cloud, Le Bourget, and other places of of the view from the gardens into the which the names were then in all men's Place du Carrousel, was from a pictur mouths. At St. Denis, which was occuesque point of view a great improve pied by the Prussians, I wanted to obment. As to the Ministry of Finance, tain permission to see some of the forts about which there was some discussion whico had held out so many months at the time, each side trying to lay the against the army which was now in blame of its destruction on the other, I temporary possession of them; and to can only say that, in spite of Ferré's this end I accosted a German soldier famous despatch: "Faites flamber de whom I met in the street, asking him to suite finances,” it had all the appear whom I must address my request. My ance of having been burnt from the top German was scanty, his seemed scantdownwards. In most of the other ier still. At last, after vain attempts buildings the débris lay in heap to understand and be understood, he within the walls, having fallen inwards, timidly inquired: “Können Sie besser as the floors successively gave way; Pölnisch sprechen ?" I had to admit here it had all littered out into the street. that my studies had not yet extended to It is a small matter enough, the Com- the Slavonic tongues. However, I mune having fires in plenty on its con- found the Commandantur at last, and science; but I felt convinced at the time was shown in to the Platz-Major, a that in the case of “finances” its inten- courteous and mild-mannered officer. I tions had been anticipated by a “Ver- never heard a "swear word” uttered seilleux” shell, probably from Mount with such a gentle intonation the Valérien.

“Gottes Donnerwetter" with which he One curious little detail of Parisian received some piece of inteiligence life, during the first siege was pointed brought in by an orderly while I was out to us by Mr. C— He took us into there. One could see that he used the the Cercle des Chemins de Fer, of which expletive merely from a sense of what he was a member, and showed us a was proper to his position, and not in book containing the daily bills of fare the least as an outlet for irritation.. of the “club dinner.” It is, or was, a He at once gave me the necessary pertradition of this club that beef in some mit. I have it to this day, but have form should appear every day in its never succeeded in reading it. It promenu; and this custom appeared never cured me instant admission to some to have been pretermitted for a single of the battered forts, where I remember day, even at the time when the food the soldiers were very anxious to have supply of Paris was at the lowest. Of the names of the guns-for each gun course we suggested that the animals bore a name, “Bijou," and the likewhich had yielded the so-called beef interpreted to them. had never worn horns; but he assured In Paris itself, as I have said, a wonus that it was not so, and that for those derful clearing-up had taken place ir who knew where to go for it there never the last three weeks. The splintered was a day throughout the siege when trees, the shattered kiosques and other genuine beef was not obtainable.

edifices on the boulevards-does any That night I returned to London, and one remember Cham's sketch of the made my appearance duly in Whitehall veteran boulevardier gazing sadly on the on Monday morning. I regret to say ruins of ane of the latter, and sighing






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“Même Rambuteau"? these still they call it. It seemed too good to be showed how heavy the storm had been; true that we should find a resting-place and the tell-tale smoke-streaks still re- without a casino, so close at hand; but mained beside many windows. But in so it proved. general life went on in Paris much as Reaching Newhaven, we stumbled usual, and no one would have suspected drowsily along the dark quays, past the that on one side the city was still half- Dieppe boat, and found steamer girdled at a distance of three or four waiting. She was a new boat, just put miles by a foreign army, or that in the on for the season, as fresh as a daisy in other direction prisoners by thousands her white paint, and with a blameless were awaiting the short shrift of a record of four crossings over charmed court-martial. Theatres were reopen waves, and a pretty young stewardess ing; indeed, I am not sure that they had with a musical voice to assure ever closed; and though the pick of the ladies that it was always so. We were Comédie Française

in London, already too tired to lie long awake, and enough of its members were left to only roused up when six hours' draw a pretty full house with “L'Aven- voyage brought us at sunrise to Ouistreturière" on the evening of June 26. ham, and we stopped, to enter the Whether it be milk or blood that is spilt canal-lock. your Parisian knows wetter than to cry The sun shone caressingly, there was over it.

just a touch of six o'clock crispness in A. J. BUTLER. the air, poplars and willows fringed the

banks, blue blouses came selling milk, three sportsmen with long guns and tasselled game-bags passed by, and a little gendarme gave the official touch

to assure us this was France. From Leisure Hour.

The canal (or, rather, canalized river SIX BY THE SEA IN NORMANDY.

Crne) leads through eight miles of garWe were six, and we wanted to spend dens, orchards, sheltered, summery our summer holiday abroad. Not as country-houses, with here and there a tourists, always on the move, bound to church or a château, to Caen. Here we make a record of churches in a given landed, passed with flying colors the time, but as a family in easy summer

easily contented Douane, then, dequarters, free to embroider the margin spatching our boxes per 'bus to St. of our idleness with the exertion of such Martin's, the station for the coast line, convenient sight-seeing as the day's

we turned deaf ears to the whip-crackmood might dictate, or free to keep our

ing host of cabmen, and 'walked laziness intact, as we chose.

through the town. We knew our destination. Its advantages we had by heart, learnt off the

Once board the queer, twocard. In The Little Paradise, as our

storied, slow-coach of a train, half an hotel in prospect delightfully hour sufficed to bring us back to the named, we should find a dining-room

sea. (We thus traced two sides of a vast and beautiful, a piano, gardens, triangle since we left it at Ouistreham.) bosquets, a garage for bicyclettes, a Our route lay through nursery-gardens, gymnase, a dark-room for photography, golden harvest-fields, and orchards renowned cooking, and the best cider in dotted with bright, small apples and Normandy.

pears. Vines hung in festoons over the The nightly

service from high walls, and lines of greyish-green Newhaven to Caen has within the last poplars were everywhere. few years made Normandy so

The trees ceased as we came near the sible that it will probably not long be

sea. The country resembled the northpossible to find unsophisticated resorts east coasts of England, only that every such as are still common on the Calva

ineh was cultured; and though evidos coast, not twenty miles from magni- dently wind-swept, it was not windficent Trouville—“Paris-sur-Mer,"

starved, as our own shores are. The









air was genial, and the trees, though of which the hotel was built. On the small, were not warped out of shape. fourth was the plage, seen through a Soil yellowish sand, no rocks to speak tall iron railing whose rusty gates stood of, but a low, crumbling beach-line of always half-open, deep in sand. chalk, full, as we found, of fossil shells. The hotel was roofed with red tiles, East and west stretched miles of level shabby, white, three-storied, with sands, from which the tides receded plaster peeling off its walls, and sunfar. Crossing the main street of the vil- blistered shutters fastened back from its lage, leading down from the church to white-screened, balconied windows. the sea, our train stopped at Langrune Shrimp-nets leant against the wall by Station, and we gathered our posses- the open doors of the long salle à mansions together and disembarked. A ger, croquet-hoops were stuck in the commissionaire was in waiting for us, sand, mallets and balls lay about, and and led the way.

Down a

rigged up from the house to the railstreet, the street, we followed, enjoying ings a new striped awning flapped in the clean, strong, salt breeze on our the wind and threw a patch of welcome faces. On either hand were low houses shade at our feet. of all sizes, one with both vine and fig- Favored pensionnaires had possession tree flourishing in an enclosure not of the ground floor rooms, each with its more than four feet square. Flower- own broad doorstep, on which sandy boxed windows and balconies, tiny gar- espadrilles lay about drying. The dens crowded with bright blooms, and upper rooms were reached by steep narlittle shops, mingled together anyhow, row staircases. At the top of one of made up the street. Far across the end these, in a set of tiny rooms much reof it was a deep-blue strip of sea. The sembling bathing-boses, shops began to display luxuries as we lodged. Quarters so primitive rather went on-gaily striped peignoirs and dismayed us at first. The roofs were costumes, sun-hats, shrimping-nets, low; the wall-papers were hideous; the and dangling bunches of espadrilles, boards were bare, though snowy-white, the indispensable shoes, with rope soles and with their island bits of carpet were and canvas uppers, which make French kept liberally sanded by the wind. (At bathing so comfortable.

Langrune everything is sandy.) The Turning to the left along a winding scanty furniture was old and odd, of road, we suddenly came upon the hotel that seaside species that is equally unof The Little Paradise from the back, willing to open or to shut. And the entering it on its inland or garden side. beds? The beds were comfort itself. We were ushered into a garden gay Roomy, downy, spotlessly fresh and with dazzling geranium beds, the vivid clean; no English lodging we had ever green of acacia-trees, and big bushes of known could provide such bowers of broom, whose yellow flowers were as dreamless ease as we found there. We large as sweet-peas, filling the air with a had scarcely time to look round us bestrong sweet odor. Under the trees were fore one urgent bell after another sumthe coffee tables and two swings (the moned us to the first of the two public gymnase!); on the low walls were various events of the day-déjeuner. From the plats, and piles of plates gathered in beach, from the garden, from lower readiness for the forthcoming déjeuner. rooms opening off the court, from upper it was now eleven o'clock, and several rooms opening off a long wooden balkitchen minions were running to and cony (now gay with peignoirs and bathfro, too busy to heed us. However, a ing-dresses, hung to dry in the sun and cook's cap popped for a moment from wind), people came trooping across the a doorway at the side of the garden. deep sands of the court, into the diningMadame Bertrand was shouted for, and room, vast and beautiful, which we had soon made her appearance in the arch- so often pictured to ourselves. It way that led under the main building proved to be the flimsiest of long dinfrom the garden to the sea-front. ner-boxes. On one side three doorways

She led us through the arch, and out gave access from the court, and air; on into the sandy court, round three sides the wall opposite were pinned two

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