Τούτο βίος, τούτ' αυτό-κτ.λ.


Oh! this is life and nought but this—to live in every pleasure ;
Dull care begone, nor mortals rob of life's uncertain treasure.
Now wine is ours, the dance is ours, with wreaths around us gleaming
Of spring-enamoured flowers, while bliss from woman's eye is beaming.
Oh! every joy this moment brings without a shade of sorrow,
And wise is he who can declare what may betide to-morrow.

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“Ο πρίν αελλοπόδων λάμψας-κ.τ.λ.

Eagle—the pride of tempest-footed steeds,

Whose limbs rich ribbons often would adorn,
Crowned at prophetic Delphi for his deeds,
Swift as if rushing wings his feet had borne.

Nemæa's boast, that nurse of lions grim:

Of Pisa,– Isthmus with its double shore,-
Eagle-the feet of foot, the strong of limb,
Yields to the yoke that neck which trappings wore.

Collared, not bitted now, with painful moil,

He turns the creaking mill-stone round and round,
Like Hercules, who, after all his toil,

A servile issue to his labours found.


Ναυτίλε, μή στήσας δρόμον ολκάδος - κ.τ.λ.

Stop not thy vessel's course, for sake of me,

Thou sailor, nor unfurl thy bellying sails :
My port is blotted now froni things that be,
And over one huge tomb past grandeur wails.

Steer on thy gallant bark, with sounding oars,

To other lands where sorrows may not dwell:
Poseidon frowned; my gods have left these shores ;

Ye travellers by land and sea-Farewell,


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On our arrival at the Hotel Royal of my mule, at Lans-le-Villiard, at Lanslebourg, where in my former where the saddle was changed, and journeys to the Mont Cenis I had al- a stirrup cup of excellent wine ways found excellent accommoda- drank amidst a crowd of villagers. tion, our first enquiry was for a The moon now rose and lit up with guide to accompany us over the Col a singularly beautiful effect the tops du Lautaret, and by the valleys of of the mountains, which on our left Viu and Lanzo to the Canavais in bounded the valley of the Arc. The Piedmont. It had been conjectured glaciers and snow shone brightly by Albanis Beaumont that Hannibal against the dark-blue sky, whilst the had crossed the Alps by the Lauta- bases of the mountains upon which ret into Italy. This and the intere they rested were shadowed by those esting letters of the Comte de Mez- on the opposite side of the valley. zenile upon the valleys of Lanzo Below us, in the depths of the rastrongly induced us to attempt this vines, and in utter darkness, the pass, which few, if any, Englishmen course of the torrent was heard in had visited.

the silence of the night. All these A guide soon presented himself. impressed us so forcibly with emoWe were displeased with his servile tions of beauty and sublimity, that manners, ,80 contrary to the inde. the journey was silent, from the dispendent and usual bearing of a position to contemplate rather than mountaineer ; but he said that he talk-though irrepressible exclamaknew the road well, having often tions of pleasure often burst from us been there, and that he had capital as new and striking effects of chiaromules; and to complete his qualifica- scuro were developed. The delight tions, he said that he was beau frère of our guide, Trag, was of a different to Monsieur the Syndic of Bessans, a character - his having caught a point upon which he appeared to couple of Messieurs les Anglais, rest his greatest hope of an engage- was to him a triumph, upon which ment. After much hesitation, we he chattered incessantly to Bernard, decided upon availing ourselves of interlarding it with compliments to his services and those of his two us as braves gens and to himself as mules, and engaged to meet him the a relative to the chief magistrate of next afternoon at Lanslebourg, on

Bessans. our return from the Mont Cenis, At length we reached the village, where we intended to spend the and after going up through a narrow early part of the day. Our rambles street, stopped at folding doors, in there in examining the old road and a high wall, which apparently enclothe new, detained us until the day sed a farm-yard. We were late when had nearly closed. When we reach- we arrived—we knocked loudly, and ed Lanslebourg, we found our obse- were admitted by a decent-looking quious guide, Pierre Antoine Trag, in mountaineer, who was introduced alarm, not for our safety, but lest we to us as Monsieur le Syndic. Bershould have changed our minds and nard and his mule went to find shelgone on to Susa. He had refused to ter elsewhere, whilst the Syndic name any sum for his services, be beckoned to us to descend by some preferred leaving this to our sense steps into a low passage. Trag, of his merits at the end of the jour leaving his mule, led the way with ney. Some time was lost in attach- a lamp, and we soon found ourselves ing, our baggage, and I protested in a stable-in which were a cow against the sort of saddle with which and a pet sheep-the latter immemy mule was caparisoned. After an diately made acquaintance. assurance that this should be changed Trag put down the lamp on a table, at Lans-le-Villiard, by the owner of upon which there was a very dirty the mule, for he had borrowed that coarse cloth-a proof to us that this upon which I rode from a friend, who was the salle à manger of such visiaccompanied him, we started up the tors as arrived at this mansion-house valley. It was dark before we reach- of the chief magistrate-the clucked the house of Bernard, the owner ing of fowls betrayed, by the dim




light of the lamp, their roosts in one informed man. We had heard that of two filthy sleeping cribs. My he was a famous chasseur, and his friend and I looked at each other anecdotes of chamois hunts beguiled oddly—but our surprise was increa. us of some time which our fatigue sed when our mule also joined us in would have otherwise induced us to our chamber. There seemed to be no devote to sleep. He offered to acother place for the reception of the company us to the mountains for two poor animal—the whole affair was or three days' sport, if we could af. too absurd to leave us serious, and ford the time; but tùis tempting after a hearty laugh, and some time offer we were obliged to relinquish. had passed away without the reap- He then advised us to retire, in orpearance of Trag or our host, we de- der to start very early for a long and termined to explore our way to some fatiguing day's journey, and conmore habitable part of the house. ducted us to his own bedroom, an The lamp helped us to find a little arrangement which he insisted upon room, which was in fact the kitchen; our assenting to, whilst be and there we found the Syndic and his madame took possession of (we sup. wife, Mister Trag's sister, in con- posed) the crib in the stable, to sultation about disposing of their which we had been first introduced. distinguished guests. We put them In the room to which we at ease in a moment by making our shown three or four children were selves at home, and entreated that asleep; the youngest, an infant, was they would not feel uneasy about removed, to prevent its disturbing our accommodation. We found that us. Our bost then, promising to call they had a good stock of Grisane, the us early, left us in possession of his excellent pipe biscuit of Piedmont; dormitory. eggs, butter, and cheese, were placed At four o'clock the following before us.

Water was soon boiled, morning, Jean Baptiste Ettienne Gaand my friend having found a sauce- rinot - I like to give all the names," pan, which he scrubbed out with a says the Vicar of Wakefield-called wisp of bay, threw into it a hand- as he had promised. My ful of tea (may his name be blessed, friend and I had agreed to ask bim I wish I knew it, who first brought to accompany us, for we had gatherthe beverage to Europe !) and in a ed enough in the evening's converfew minutes we made a delicious sation to know that he would be an iofusion, which we would have de important acquisition to our party fied any steeper of Souchong in the across the mountains. He readily world to rival. Our chief difficulty agreed to accompany us, but we was about cups from which we could could not induce him to make any drink it. Our host had been in Pa- terms with us for his services. He ris, and had brought with him one said that he was not professionally a precious specimen of Sevres porce- guide, but he would go with us for lain-kept for show, its use was ihe pleasure of the journey and to offered to us--it was aided, however, assist us, and leave any remuneraby a vulgar earthenware pipkin, and tion to our own feelings. Master from these we made a capital (tea) Trag adhered to the same resolusupper. As a delicacy, some mar- tion ; but Bernard drove a bargain mot, salted last season, was added, with us to receive a Napoleon for and what could be picked from it we the mule and his own services, for relished; in taste it resembled highly he also chose to accompany us, but flavoured bam. Our host and bis it was agreed to be only to the sumwife, finding us bappy and contented, mit of the Col de Lautaret. became themselves cheerful; he said Having taken tea for breakfast, that as he had travelled, he knew packed up some Grisane cheese that our privations under his roof and wine, and settled with Madame were great, though we submitted to Garinot her domestic account, we them with good-humour-and he started at five o'clock, and soon afregretted that he could not provide ter, leaving the village by the road for and accommodate us better. which descends from the Mont

We learnt from our host much Iseran, we crossed the valley toabout our intended journey across wards Averole, whence the torrent the Lautaret on the morrow. We which arises in the Lautaret rushes found him an intelligent and well. to its confluence with the Arc. The


morning was fresh and cold. We occupation of forming the ordure of looked around upon the scenery of their beasts into lumps like turf, the valley of the Arc, which had ap- and placing them out to dry for their peared so mysterious and beautiful winter store. The syndic advised the night before, but the charm bad us to bire here a man whose assistvanished; the mountains which ance might be useful in the passage bounded the valley had lost their of the glaciers of the Lautaret; but vastness; they were near and de. no one could be found, in spite of fined, and showed peither the cha- their misery, to accompany us upon racters of form nor magnitude the terms which we offered by the which had presented themselves to advice of Garinot. Trag winked our imaginations, by the light of the knowingly, and said we had better moon.

be without their aid, which was not We soon entered the valley of necessary. This contradiction puze Averole, where snow, glaciers, and zled us, but we followed the advice vast precipices, came suddenly in of the latter. contrast with the quiet scenery of From this valley there are three the valley of the Arc near Bessans. mountain passes into Piedmont-the We crossed the torrent of the Ave. Col de Colarin, the Col d'Arnas, role, and, ascending its right bank, and the Col de Lautaret. The first looked upon the enormous precis of these is attained by a path which pices on the opposite side with a enters a little valley immediately feeling of awe. A steep talus, form. before arriving at the village of Aveed by the mouldering for ages of role, but its course is across very these precipices, bad half filled the dangerous glaciers. The Col d'Ar. valley; while the glaciers which nas is the shortest, and an active bung upon these mountains were mountaineer would reach Usseglio, seen, as if streaming down each the village in the Val de Viu, which opening or rift which served as a was to be the end of our day's channel. The sterile appearance of Jabour, in five hours less time than the valley led us almost to doubt by the pass of the Lautaret, but it our findiog a village amidst scenes was, we were told, dangerous and so utterly destitute. A little barley fatiguing, and utterly impracticable was raised in a few miserable spots for a mule. My object in passing brought into cultivation, but so the Lautaret was to examine it, with wretched was the situation of the reference to Albanie Beaumont's inbabitants, that they had not even conjectures upon the passage of the means of dressing these little Hannibal, and to visit the most picportions of their soil, for the dung turesque of these passes. of their cows and sheep was care- Leaving the village of Averole, we fully collected to use as fuel. They descended by a steep path to the torhad no other. The pine forests with rent, and crossing it began an ascent which other cold and mountainous on the side of the opposite mounregions are favoured, were with tain, more steep than many places held from them. One formerly ex- which I had been told were impracisted in the neighbourhood. It was ticable for mules. It was really terburnt, and the inhabitants of Ave- rific to ascend by a zig-zag path, so role have no means in their dreary abrupt and narrow, that frequently winters of obtaining warmth but by turns were made within two mulo using so foul a substitute.

lengths of each other, and in some Garinot, who had given us this places when not three feet removed information, assured us that we from the perpendicular, one mule should be sensible of our approach was thirty feet above the other. to the village, which we soon reach. Sometimes the aid of the guides was ed, by the offensive smell of the necessary to support or drag up the emoke, and we found in it, as he mules, for it was often so steep that bad described, a community living their fore feet were level with their in a state of equalid misery, for cruppers, and this frightful path which he had no expression to con- overhung precipices of which we vey an idea of his horror or his pity. could not see the bases, whilst on On our way through the narrow the opposite side of the ravine enorlane of the village, we saw many of

mous glaciers swept down from the the women engaged in their filthy crest of the mountain to the depths


of the gorge below us. Across these Garipot now begged that we would glaciers, Garinot told us, lay the pas. secure his assistance, which might sage to the Col d'Arnas. He said be had for half a franc, to the sum. it was the pass which he chose when mit of the passage. His absence going into Piedmont, and he always from his herd was not likely in these took advantage of a bright moon- regions to be detected, and he as. light to travel by night, when the sured us we should need his services. snows were frozen, and the footing What we were to encounter I could firm. It is impossible to imagine a not imagine; we were already five situation of euch utter solitude as a in number, but we attended to his traveller by night in those regions. wishes, and the lad readily joined

Having pushed and pulled our mules up the precipitous path, we We soon saw before us the moattained a level terrace, where we raines of the enormons glaciers rested for a few minutes, over a line which crown the summit of the of rocks which formed its boundary great chain of the Alps. They formtowards the ravine. The objects ed a part of those awful solitudes above, below, and around us, were in which so forcibly impressed me the highest degree impressive. The with their grandeur, when I saw spot was one we desired to linger them from the Col d'Iseran in the in, and would gladly have found an

year 1829.

The valley now narexcuse for delay in hunger, but the rowed to a gorge, through which the syndic recommended our waiting torrent flowed, bounded by frightful until we came to a spot where the precipices on the right, and on the mules might feed also. We started, left masses of rock and stones, which, and at the end of an hour's march upon the vast scale of every object reached a beautiful mountain pas- around us, scarcely appeared to turage, directly opposite the great leave a path between their bases glacier de la Roussa. Here we sat and the torrent. After a short pause, on a delightful sward, turned our Garinot advised our climbing these mules adrift after relieving them rocks instead of going round their from the baggage, and amidst such bases, but the effort failed. For the a glorious Alpine scene ate, with mules the difficulty was too great, our best appetite, our humble fare, and there was too much risk of their and drank a bumper to those who falling over, or breaking their legs were far distant, but who cared for, between the stones. and perhaps thought of us. Whilst

care, therefore, they were led down, we rested, the syndic pointed out and here our goat-herd's services to us a flock of seven chamois cross- were already valuable. We left ing before us the glacier of the them to pursue the path by the torRuussa. These increased our ex- rent, whilst we continued our ascitement, and, aided by the beauty cent. On attaining the summit of of the day, and the sublimity of the the rocks, the scene was one of the scene around the place of our re- most wild and desolate character past, left our minds and feelings in that could be presented to us. Bea state of which language can con- low was the moraine of a boundless vey no idea. Garinot did not allow glacier, which evidently extended us to lose time, as he said we had far beyond the bright line which before us a long and fatiguing jour- cut against the sky. On our left lay ney.

When we were prepared to the loose soil of the mountain side, start, we found the ground below us up which we were to find a pathless so swampy as to be unsafe for the route. On the right the vast precimules, and they were led down pices which bounded the ravine that carefully by Trag and Bernard to we had left, and which flanked on the bed of the torrent, which they that side the immense glacier before forded with difficulty, and then as- We soon saw our mules with cended the valley on the other side. the guides, Trag and Bernard, emerge We pursued another course, under from the ravine, and approach the the guidance of the syndic, and join- moraine, up which, however diffied them at a ford higher up the val- cult, the easiest acclivity for the ley, where the passage was also mules presented itself to attain the dangerous; but we had the help of Col. At this moment Garinot, with a goat-herd, a lad of eighteen, and the eye of a chasseur, discovered

With great



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