6

THE HEIGHTS OF VALETTA.

ships in the harbour struck their lower yards and topmasts; every vessel rode with two anchors, and strengthened her moorings; nevertheless, much mischief was done, and a variety of accidents happened. Not a single boat would put out; and even for the next two days, those who were afloat had very little communication with the shore, notwithstanding the storm had subsided, and the atmosphere had become clear; moreover, the wind had changed to the N.E., and was moderate; but Father Neptune could not so easily be pacified, and it was not until the evening of the third day that he seemed to lay aside his angry mood. At length peace was restored, and the heavens became serene and bright.

After a storm comes a calm. These gales in the Mediterranean seldom continue long without intermission. I believe it was the following afternoon, that when I returned from visiting some hospital patients with Dr. Scott, who was at the head of the medical staff, (Dr. John Davy having been called to London on account of the death of Sir Humphry,) I retired to my favourite spot on the ramparts, to enjoy one of the most interesting and delightful views that could be presented to the eye of man. The tranquillity of the atmosphere was re-established, but still there was a north-easterly breeze: the air was pleasantly fresh, the sun shone bright, and the sea looked green, except where, here and there, the milk-white steeds of the azure god were playfully gambolling. I was sitting on a gun, enjoying a scene which I was sorry to leave; the sentry was an intelligent man,—one, I imagine, whose merit exceeded his reward; for his demeanour was above the ordinary cast, and indicated something of rank beyond his present condition. Our conversa

A SHIP IN SIGHT.

7

tion was suddenly interrupted by the appearance of the guard; and looking up, I caught a glimpse of a very beautiful ship just coming round the point at the mouth of the harbour, under British colours. But for the manner in which she shortened sail, I should have taken her for a sloop-of-war; indeed, it was some time before I could satisfy myself to the contrary. She was built with a poop, and lay close to the water; and altogether her appearance was such, that it was nothing but the cautious manner of working her sails that led me to doubt the fact. As she drew near, it was evident that she carried a comparatively small number of hands, and that she could be no other than a merchantman of the first class; but I certainly never saw a finer specimen. She appeared in excellent trim, and swung round to her berth in a way that need not have shamed the British navy. It was really a pretty sight, and I did not think that we possessed a merchant-ship that could have acquitted herself so well.

After this eulogium, the reader will be able to appreciate what I felt when I learned that this fine vessel had only to discharge a small part of her cargo, consisting of government stores, to wit, a long boat and an anchor for the "Britannia,"* a spare bowsprit for a hundred-and-twenty-gun ship, a man-of-war's gig or two, &c., and then to proceed to Egypt: the rest of her cargo being consigned to Messrs. Briggs, Brothers and Co., for Mohammed Ali. It may easily be supposed the poor Dutchman was forgotten, and that many hours did not elapse before I was on board the "Bristol, of London." Isaac Riches, the master, was a tall, well-proportioned, athletic-looking man, about fifty years of age, with dark eyes and large eye-brows,

*120 guns.

8

PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY.

a ruddy, healthy complexion, and an open countenance. I was rather prepossessed in his favour, and soon made up my mind. He told me he should certainly sail in a week. I replied, I replied, "You captains cannot always keep your word. You will sail, I dare say, if you are ready for sea, and you have a fair wind." I then related to him how often I had been deceived by gentlemen of his profession, and amused him much by an account of my five weeks' cruize in the Adriatic. He assured me that I might depend upon him, for that he had very little to take in; and that, having got rid of the government stores, he should clear immediately. I then engaged a passage, and begged him to be serious, and let me know the latest time. "If the weather is at all fair," he replied, "I shall positively sail on Monday morning."

With this I took my leave, and went forthwith to communicate with Mr. Hemsley, and was not a little pleased to find that he approved of my choice; though I verily believe, if he had said "no," I should have said "yes!"-like many others who ask the opinion of their friends, and take their own at last. But I was very glad to think that the little judgment I possessed in nautical matters availed me here. "How can you hesitate a moment?" said he. "When I saw that vessel come in, and drop her anchor as she did, so orderly and quiet, I was astonished: I am sure the captain knows his business; and he seems as familiar with the port of Malta as if he had been many years pilot. You need not ask the question, my dear fellow; and if you wait here a whole twelvemonth, you may not meet with such another opportunity, until the 'Bristol' comes again." I asked him how much he was paid for puffing the "Bristol!"

FRIENDLY OVERTURES.-THE HEALING ART. 9

During the period of my stay at Malta, my intentions respecting Egypt had been spoken of in the circle of my acquaintance. Knowing that I should be engaged with the sick, and consequently exposed to great risks, (many of them having themselves witnessed the dreadful ravages of the plague in that island,)— remembering also the untimely end of poor Clapperton, who sailed, as they expressed it, on a similar expedition, they did everything in their power to dissuade me from undertaking the journey. They confessed that they thought me rash,-that they did not admire either my voyage or its object; and that, if I went, they should never expect to see me again !-Very comforting, truly! But it was kindly meant, and I am grateful to them for the interest they took in my behalf. It is certainly no joke to encounter the plague or the cholera, dysentery or fever, in a hot country; and the idea of returning home without one's eyes is not very pleasant;—but it is the province of the physician to encounter evils of this kind, and he ought not to shrink from the discharge of his duty, though disease appear in its most formidable shape. My determination was fixed. I could but thank my advisers for their sympathy, and it was extremely gratifying to me to find that I was afterwards not forgotten. On more than one occasion, extracts from my own letters were shewn me in the Malta Gazette, and accounts of my proceedings were from time to time reported through the same channel, which I regarded as a proof that some value was attached to my opinions. The kind expressions which accompanied these reports also af forded me encouragement.

I began now seriously to consider whether I had omitted to make any arrangements which might be

necessary, in order to facilitate my journey. I did not encumber myself with much baggage; but I took care to lay in a good stock of tea, and to be provided with a block-tin cooking apparatus, so constructed as to inclose a spirit-lamp and a nest of cylindrical cups, a dark lanthorn, some well-starched gauze for mosquitonets, half-a-dozen English knives and forks, a few spoons, writing materials, a good stock of useful medicines, particularly quinine, James's powder, calomel, carbonate of soda, and tartaric acid,-some good bleeding lancets, thermometers, a sea-compass, maps, and a few trifling things to give away, such as cutlery, beads, and some French trinkets of inconsiderable value. The only thing I regretted was the want of an Arabic and English lexicon, which was not to be had at any price.

My friends kindly offered to forward my letters, and reiterated their desire to serve me to the utmost of their ability. I gave them full credit for the honesty of their intentions, and had every inducement to proceed. Time was getting on. I know not what to say! Shall I attempt to describe my feelings? I will not. They were such as I never before experienced, and never may again; though I have since been conscious of the like on more than one occasion. I was surrounded by many who kindly tendered their services, yet they were strangers. My dear parents, my own family, my tried and valued friends, who had known me from the cradle, were at a distance; they were ignorant of my projected plans. I had not seen them for many a long day, and I was now about to enter upon a hazardous undertaking, such as they little contemplated, and I knew not that I should ever see them again!