THE

MODERN CONDITION OF EGYPT.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

It was the latter end of January: I had been anxiously watching the arrival and departure of every ship that touched at Malta, and I began to doubt as to the possibility of carrying my proposed plan into execution. Several vessels entered the harbour and went out during my stay; but none of them were bound for Egypt. Some came from Constantinople and Alexandria; others from Smyrna and Trieste, and occasionally a brig or sloop-of-war, bearing dispatches from the Admiral, Sir Pulteney Malcolm, who at that time, hoisted his flag at Ægina. Thus was I destined to be tantalized; and I began to lose all patience. Every thing seemed to thwart my inclination. vain, I took my accustomed walk upon the ramparts

In

2

H. B. M.'S SHIP

RATTLESNAKE.”

and the terraces of Valetta: in vain, I stretched my neck over the sea, and strained my eyes to discover a sail upon the horizon that might possibly be propitious to my views. views. I walked, and looked, and lamented my hard fate to all I met. I questioned the sailors; I consulted the merchants, but always with the same success; I had no alternative but to wait. A lover expecting the arrival of his mistress-one who was "the ocean to the river of his thoughts,"-or an unhappy convict doomed to expiate his crimes upon the fatal tree, unless, by the end of a short respite whose sand was nearly run out, the expected reprieve or acquittal should arrive, could not have gazed with more eagerness over the wide expanse of the waters which bound the rocks of Malta, than I did. Full of expectation, every morning and evening I strolled down to the exchange, to ascertain if any new arrivals or departures were announced. Would I have gone to England, there were opportunities enough; but it seemed as if Egypt were indeed the land of the pestilence, and that all communication with her had ceased.

Almost in despair, I set off the next morning to pay a visit on board the "Rattlesnake,"* and tell my melancholy tale to the officers. I accompanied Mr. Wm. Hemsley, the first master, a most worthy intelligent man, to the dock-yard, where he kindly pointed out and explained the most interesting objects. At parting, he advised me not to be in too great a hurry about a ship, as it was a matter of importance, and there could be no doubt that something would soon turn up to my advantage. I thanked him for his kindness, and

*A British sloop-of-war, on board which, through the kindness of the honourable Captain Bridgeman, I sailed from Corfu. She carried twentyeight guns.

NIX MANGIARE STAIRS !

3

hailing one of the shore boats, returned to the "stairs" -nix mangiare stairs !*

I had scarcely taken my leave, when my attention was arrested by the approach of a heavy Dutch-built smack of about eighty or ninety tons, making for that part of the harbour where her country's colours were flying, and where she presently let go her anchor close alongside a Dutch man-of-war brig. Any sort of craft under sail at that moment would have given me pleasure, for it was blowing pretty fresh, and the weather was fine, though somewhat cloudy. At first I felt tempted to speak with her; but after friend Hemsley's advice, I thought it best to defer it until the next day, notwithstanding I would willingly put to sea with the Dutch.

In the morning I walked down to the Exchange as usual; for it had now become a habit, and I had almost given up the idea of getting to Alexandria by a direct course; when, what was my surprise, to see the Dutchman posted in large and legible characters, "Mynheer Von," no matter what! "arrived yesterday from Amsterdam-to proceed in a few days to Alexandria !" It was new life to me! Down stairs I went 'spite of "mangiare" and the beggars, and without consulting Hemsley. Ho! for the Dutchman!—I jumped into a boat, and in a few seconds, came on board. Mynheer was very busy and very civil; gave me a taste of his "schedam," which was very

Those who are acquainted with Malta have thus designated the landingplace, in consequence of the language employed by the beggars who crowd about the spot, to the infinite annoyance of the unfortunate passengers, who are compelled to pass up the almost interminable steps, pursued by these importunate individuals, who range themselves on either side, and keep up an incessaut din to the tune of "Pover miserab uomo! Signor! mangiare,-nix mangiare! nix mangiare, Sir! six weeks!!"

4

RECOLLECTIONS OF THE ADRIATIC.

nice, took me below, where every thing was very clean, but very small-no room to spare, but very snug. The nature of my errand was soon told!" very happy to take me!—make me comfortable!—had a quick passage!-stout bark, very safe! no spare room, but a spare berth: very snug!-happy of my company," &c. In short, the Mynheer seemed a very reasonable, respectable, straight forward, honest, good sort of man: and as the stout gentleman would say, "no nonsense about him!" To tell the truth, I was quite satisfied with the interview and I almost fancied myself in Alexandria. He referred me to his agents, and I began to think that I really should tread the shores of Africa.

I confess my ardour was a little damped when I discovered that Mynheer was expecting a cargo of iron, which, it was said, was looked for every hour! This, I thought, was a very poor prospect. I had already suffered enough in this way at Trieste, where I was put off by the captain of a fine Austrian brig of 300 tons, from day to day, for upwards of a month; and after all, had to drag out a miserable voyage of thirty-seven days, during a succession of heavy gales from the S.E., which, at that season of the year, almost keep the Adriatic in blockade. The distance from Trieste to Corfù is only 500 miles. My travelling companion at the time was Captain G. M. Jones, who had been a commander in the British navy eighteen years, and served under Sir Wm. Hoste on board the "Amphion," when the French held possession of Corfù: consequently, he must have known the Adriatic well. Being a great invalid, he was glad to avail himself of my escort to Malta, whither he was going to pass the winter. His complaint necessarily made him

irritable, and needed not to be aggravated by the absurd conduct of this Illyrian pilot. We had already been detained a week at Castel Nuovo, and this man chose to bring to within three leagues of our port, under a stiff "Bora," which had carried us above 100 miles during the last twelve hours, and merely because he was afraid it would be dark before he could get up the Channel! Captain Jones advised him to pass the island altogether; "for," said he, "the wind will chop round to the S.E. directly, and then you'll be all right;" and down he went, and "turned in." He spoke with a prophetic tongue the wind did change; the sirocco again set in with great violence ; and after beating about for three days between the island of Fano and the "Strada bianca" on the main, entertained with the superstitious imprecations of the captain and crew, we put back to the Bay of Vallona, where we remained wind locked for a fortnight! I paid little attention, therefore, to the fragile promises of Mynheer and his agents. I told them I had no objection to take a berth when I saw that there was a chance of getting off; but that I should hold myself free to engage with any other in the meantime. Towards evening, the atmosphere became obscure; it blew hard from the S.E., and the rain fell in torrents. The night was awfully dark, and the gale increased. The rain still fell, and the storm continued unabated until the middle of the next day, when it seemed to lull a little for a short time; but towards six o'clock, it raged with greater fury than ever. The ramparts were white with foam, and the spray was carried to an incredible distance; the sea presented a most terrific and grand appearance ;-if ever it ran mountains and roared great guns, it was then. The line-of-battle