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and arched over, with a flight of steps and the breadth one hundred and fifteen by which to descend it. Just north of feet. The height cannot be less than the town, too, by the side of the road fifty or sixty feet. The walls are built along the bed of the valley, is another of very large stones, all levelled and small fountain, which seemed to serve hewn smooth ; and similar, in all rechiefly at this season for watering ani- spects, to the most ancient parts of the mals.
walls around the Haram at Jerusalem. The pools above described are doubt. But they are not in general so large, nor less of high antiquity, and one of them is the levelling so deep. The architecture is probably to be regarded as the “pool has this peculiarity, that the walls are in Hebron," over which David hanged up built up externally with square pilasters, the assassins of Ishbosheth! 2 Sam. iv. sixteen on each side and eight at each 12. The other alleged antiquities of end, without capitals, except a sort of Hebron, (with the exception of the great cornice which extends along the whole mosque,) did not occupy our attention. We building. Above this, the walls have neither saw nor inquired after the tomb been raised by the Moslems eight or of Abner, nor that of Jesse, nor the ten feet higher, with a small turret or red earth of which Adam was formed, minaret at each corner. There are no nor the place where Cain slew Abel, windows in any part of these walls. nor various other legendary spots men The places of entrance are at the two tioned by early and later travellers. northern corners, where a long and The place called by the Jews the broad flight of steps of very gentle as“ House of Abraham,” an hour from cent, built up and covered along each Hebron towards Jerusalem, with the side of the building externally, leads to remains of massive walls, is the probable door in each wall opening into the site of what was held to be Mamre in court within. That at the n.w. corner the early Christian ages.
seemed to be the principal entrance, The great Haram, or rather the ex- merely perhaps as being the most conterior wall, which encloses the mosque, veniently situated. The building stands constitutes the most remarkable object in upon the slope of the eastern hill; the Hebron; and one of the most so in all rocks having been excavated along the Palestine. It is also one of the most upper side, in order to lay the foundation. sacred places of the Mohammedans, being According to all accounts, the strucheld to cover the sepulchre of Abraham ture here described, including all that and the other patriarchs. We had looked is visible from without, is merely an at it with some care in our previous exterior enclosure of walls, around a visit; and it was now one of the first court within. In this court stands the things to claim our further attention. much smaller mosque, which is said On our way thither this morning, we to have been once a Christian church. called at the house of Elias, in the north Here, in different parts, the Mohampart of the main quarter, to pay him medans have built tombs for the paour respects in return for his kindness. triarchs, while their actual place of seWe found that he and his family had pulchre is held to be in a cavern below, already gone out to spend the day under which even the faithful are not permitted the great oak, which we had passed to enter. But as the jealous bigotry of yesterday; and had left an invitation the Mussulmans of Hebron precludes for us to join them there, and break- all admittance to Franks and Chrisfast with them at a later hour. We tians, and the height of the exterior then proceeded to the mosque.
wall prevents any view of the interior, The exterior has the appearance of even from the adjacent hill, we are a large and lofty building in the form of yet without any intelligible description a parallelogram ; its longest dimensions of the mosque and its appurtenances, being along the valley from N.n.w. to and know nothing at all of the cavern S.S.E., and not, as in most ancient which thus represents the cave of Machchurches, from
We mea- pelah. sured on a line parallel to its eastern The outer structure thus described, side and southern end, as near to it evidently belongs to a high antiquity; as we could, though not without some and the resemblance of its architecture hints to desist, from an old man to that of the remains of the ancient two who came along. The length temple at Jerusalem, seems to point proved to be nearest two hundred feet, to a Jewish origin. Yet we have no
A RAMBLE ON THE BANKS OF THE
certain accounts of it; and all we can a neighbouring parish, when he was learn respecting it, is from a few scat- curate, toiling up the steep, on the aftered hints in ancient writers, which ternoon of the sabbath day, almost merely serve to cast a further gleam dragging after him, by the bridle, his of probability upon this conclusion. As little black pony, stopping every dozen a matter of course, monastic tradition yards to pat him on the neck, calling refers the edifice to Helena, as one of him pretty fellow, and standing a miher churches; but for this, as we have nute or two to let him take breath, and seen, there is not the slightest ground, to take breath himself also. And here, while the form, direction, and elevation too, I have often loitered in the “ gloamof the structure, and especially the ab- ing,” when the huge trees and heapedsence of windows, all go to show, that up rocks have cast their dark shadows these walls were never anything more on the ground. At the moment I am than what they are at present, an en- making these remarks, the place is full closure around an inner edifice or court. of interest. What a height from the -Dr. Robinson.
river ! how thick and inaccessible the underwood! What deep holes and dark fissures and crevices in the crags ! And what a goodly canopy of overhanging trees! The huge rocks on the left are piled up as though giants
had been building them; and the rude, He who has never gazed on the rifted watercourse, looks as if a thungoodly stream, the lofty banks, the derbolt had mistaken its course, and woody heights, and romantic rocks of had torn itself a path down to the river. the winding Wye, is stranger to some There! a hare has crossed the road of the most delightful scenery in Eng with her long hind legs and whiteland. As I ramble onward, day af- tufted tail, hiding herself in the gloom ter day, a remark
two will of the tangled brushwood. I can hear sometimes escape me, while the river the rooks above me as they wing rolls below; would that I had words their way to their distant rookery: to describe the scenes around me, Yesterday, I explored with a respected or even vividly to embody my poor clerical friend, the remains of the Rothoughts!
man encampment, still visible in an adI am not now on the cloud-capped joining height. mountain, huge Plinliminon, near whose
Time changes much the surface of the world! summit the Wye takes its rise, but on Where once the Roman marshalled his bold host, Caplor Hill, one of the many heights
Bristling with swords and spears the rocky
height, which adorn the river. It is evening, The shepherd tends his flock, and the young and the setting sun glaring in the west, like a flaming beacon, lights up the
In sportive gambols tread the flowery turf. skies.
Yonder ! over the river is Holm This Caplor Hill is a favourite spot Lacy. A canonry occupied the place with me: I love its seclusion, its glo- in the reign of Henry 11. I rememrious prospect, and its bold and pre- ber when the goodly mansion there, in cipitous fall to the river. Years ago, the park, was tenanted by the old duke a goodly portion of the wood broke of Norfolk : the beautiful carvings by down from its customary position, and Gibbons, and the old family portraits, moved near to the river's brink, where gave, and give an interest to the place. it now stands, though it has lost, in a The present occupier has spared no ex. great measure, the more visible ap- pense in improving the princely dwellpearance of its violent disruption. The ing. He has walked with me through road through the wood is almost too every chamber of that goodly dwelling.” steep to be passable. Here have I seen For some weeks I have been in the the distressed horses of the loaded neighbourhood of the Wye, now visitwain, straining their sinewy frames, ing the cottages, and now partaking the and smiting hard the rocky path with hospitality of the farmhouses and the their iron-shod hoofs, while their broad- mansions of the gentry around. A breasted driver, doubly scotching his London visitor is not an unwelcome wheels, has stood panting for breath. guest in the country. Give yourself Here have I seen the good vicar of no airs ; accommodate yourself to
circumstances; be not insensible to kind- | man, is as lusty and strong as ever. ness; try to make yourself agrecable, I have been jocosely intimating the and show the kind people that you are possibility of my setting up a boat, by happy, and you will find welcomes “ as way of opposition to him ; but he drily plenty as blackberries,” go where you advises me to put it off till after the will.
winter, lest I should take cold in my I have often spoken of Fawley Court, undertaking. Though the river, for and sometimes I have called it “Old the most part, Aows rapidly between Court;” but no matter! call it what lofty woods-crowned banks, at times I may, it is a dear old mansion, it alters its character, and then, fairest and I could now be garrulous in its of British streams! romantic Wye ! praise, for I love its battlements and
-thy course shadowy porch, yea, the very ivy that Is calm, and soft, and silent: clear and deep clings to its venerable and venerated Thy stately waters roll; in the proud force
Of unpretending majesty, they sweep walls. It once was a mansion of the
The sideless marge, and brightly, tranquilly Kyrles, of which family was the fa Bear their rich tributes to the grateful sea. mous man of Ross. Its battlements, Pool Hullock, or Pool Hullick, is a projecting windows with stanchions of neat cottage-looking habitation, midway stone, and porch with double doors, between Ross and Hereford, standing have long been familiar to me. Fawley in a pretty garden, laid out tastefully is thronged with shiny and shadowy in diamond, oval, triangle, and other associations. How intelligibly should formed parterres, edged with fresh green passing events whisper in our ears, box, and abounding with flowers. Peace * Pass the time of your sojourning here to its inmates ! in fear,” | Peter i. 17. Hill Eaton, Birch is a pleasant-looking mansion, too, has not been forgotten. Who near the turnpike road, standing on a would expect in a farmhouse the strings slope, and commanding, a sweet prosof the harp, and the keys of the piano pect. The beautiful white rose tree, to be struck with such flying fingers ! abounding with flowers, that climbs up Often has the voice of psalmody, richly one of the light pillars of the veranda, accompanied, rung around me in the attracts every eye. Birch has an hospi,
that overlooks the foldyards. | table and benevolent owner. “ Blessed Basham, long the stronghold of time- is he that considereth the poor : the honoured customs, little observed in Lord will deliver him in time of trouother places, is changing its inhabit- ble,” Psa. xli. 1. ants; for the strongest walls cannot Pengethley, the residence of a much keep out death. It still, however, pos- respected magistrate, is a sweet retreat: sesses, in its present occupier, one of the I hardly know one
The kindliest spirits that ever animated hu- beauty and delightful situation of the manity. Moraston, thou hast hearts mansion, the air of privacy and quietbeating beneath thy hospitable roof that ude which characterizes it, and the are not likely to lose the place they prospect of wood, water, and distant occupy in my remembrance.
country which it commands, render it
a sort of fairy land. Time presses, or Pennockston (I know not if I spell I could willingly linger a day at Penthe name right) stands at a little distance
gethley. from the river Wye, the court yard at The church of Llanwarne bears a its entrance, and the garden grounds to date so early as to puzzle the spectator. the south, with their terrace and se In the churchyard stands the mutilated cluded walks, give an interest to this remains of an ancient cross. I have often goodly mansion. I have been ram- received a cheering welcome from the bling from one spot to another, with a kind hearts in the farmhouse on the hill. friendly inmate, whose invalided frame One of its inmates forcibly reminds me seems hardly equal to the exertion. How of a schoolfellow to whom, in my boyish often is cheerful, interesting, and Chris- days, I was much attached. tian conversation a cordial to the heart
How sweet the morn of life, when leaves of the afflicted, medicine to the mind,
Were green upon the bough! “ oil to the joints, and marrow to the Then youth and spring went hand in hand, bones!”
But age and winter now. I have passed the river, standing in the big horse boat. Fidoe, the ferry The commanding height of Acon
bury, where a large Roman camp, was Among the olden customs of Here. once formed, is too alluring an object fordshire, there was one which I ought to be passed by. I have traversed its not to pass by. It was common at woody summit in goodly company, and funerals to hire poor men, to take upon am now on the top of Saddlebow. The themselves the sins of the deceased hut of Mary Sebbert is only at the person. A loaf of bread was delivered distance of a stone's cast. A few poles to the sin-eater over the corpse as it tied close together at the top, are spread lay on the bier, together with a mazar out at the bottom and covered over with bowl of maple, full of malt liquor, to turf. In this cheerless hut dwells poor be drank at the time. In consideration Mary, now about threescore years old. of these advantages, and the additional She has lived alone there already nearly gift of sixpence in money, the sin-eater thirty years ; her mother lived and undertook to bear the deceased harmless died there, and she hopes to die there on account of his sins, of whatever sort too. “ Where do you keep your gold and kind they might have been, and watch and your silver spoons, and all also freed him from walking after death. the rest of your plate, Mary?” said I It is supposed that this olden custom jocosely. "Oh, sir, said she, “if, had reference to the scapegoat in the by God's mercy, I get a bit of bread, old law, Lev. xvi. 21, 22. and a potatoe from my little garden, Aaron shall lay both his hands upon the it's all that I desire." I made a bar- head of the live goat, and confess over gain with the poor woman, “I will him all the iniquities of the children give you a shilling now," said I ; "and of Israel, and all their transgressions when you are rich, you shall give it in all their sins, putting them upon the me back again."
head of the goat, and shall send him It is now midday, and the sun is away by the hand of a fit man into the pouring down his sultry beams. The wilderness : and the goat shall bear grass and the hedges are apparently upon him all their iniquities unto a trembling in the heat ; the white-faced, land not inhabited : and he shall let brown-sided Herefordshire cattle are go the goat in the wilderness." Oh busy, their teeth and tails both at that we all, while we see the folly and work, the one tearing the herbage, and evil of wandering from God, may disthe other lashing away the flies. The cern our true scape-goat in the Regrey horse under the tree yonder, is deemer, “who his own self bare our shaking his head in the shade to rid sins in his own body on the tree, that himself of his buzzing tormentors, we, being dead to sins, should live unto switching himself with his long silky righteousness,” i Peter ii. 24. tail, while his impatient foot every now Having crossed the river with two and then dashes the sod. Here is a agreeable companions, I am ascending large tree, standing at the entrance of the steep towards Symond's Yat; every a shady lane, covered with blossoms, minute the prospect becomes more arwith hundreds of humble-bees buzzing resting and sublime. Here and there among the branches. They say the har- lie fragments that have broken away vest will be a late one ; but come it will, from the huge rocks beetling above for seed time and harvest are appointed them. The cottages on the opposite by the Holy One.
heights, with their orchards, seem to
mount up to the very skies. At my I have gazed on the goodly prospect feet, at this moment, crossing the from the churchyard at Ross, and vi- rocky road, is a stream of black ants sited both Goodrich Castle and Goodrich of an unusual size ; yonder are two Court, and am now drawing near to Sy- children at play, at a fearful height mond's Yat. To describe the armoury above me, and donkeys, laden with and endless curiosities of Goodrich Court coal from the neighbouring forest of would be a tale too long to tell. Enough Dean, with their drivers, are passing that I have been spell bound by the to and fro, along the precipitous path. one and the other. It may be, that on We have gained the summit, the aba future day Goodrich Court may be- rupt termination of Coldwell promoncome the subject of my observations, tory, called Symond's Yat, or Gate, and meanwhile I am not unthankful for the the glorious prospect that has burst attentions paid to me by the owner of upon us has filled me with surprise and this princely erection.
joy, I could scream with almost unbear
able delight! The rolling river, solemn, I still I cannot but acknowledge here the deep, and dark, the grand mass of rock presence of a mightier emotion, a more fearful in height, and arrestingly perpen- mysterious influence, a deeper tone of dicular;
the woody amphitheatre stretch- feeling, and a higher estimate of naing round, the ten thousand broad acres ture's charms then hitherto my mind lying far and wide below, and the bright has entertained: my cup of delight apsky above, lit up by the burning sun, pears to be filled even to the brim. It form together such a scene that the would be hard to say how much of heart revels in the prodigality of beauty, pleasure may be borne by mortal man; sublimity, and glory, presented to the but my power to endure joy seems to gaze of the spectator.
be taxed to the uttermost; an addition What, then, if here such glowing scenes arise, either to my present enjoyment or to Must be the goodly glories of the skies?
the boundless thankfulness of my heart Subdued by the very excess of my de to the more glorious and almighty Giver light, I have taken a calmer view of the of this glorious scene, scarcely could extended prospect. I have leaned on the I bear. branches of the tree, growing right over It has often been a subject of rethe precipice, gazing on the depth pro- gret, that the liveliness of our emotions, found. I have descended the extreme when gazing on glowing scenes, should end of the rock, by the brushwood, so as subside so quickly; but this is only to see in profile, the broad face of the one of the many merciful arrangements stupendous steep, and now am one mo of our heavenly Father, who knows what ment noting down my remarks, and the we can, and what we cannot bear. Were next, sharing with my companions the our eyes ever sparkling with rapture, and refreshments spread out on a napkin, our hearts always thrilling with emotion, on the rocky summit.
we should be unfitted for the humbler An aged man and two aged women, and more commonplace duties of our evidently drawing near to the end of existence. One hour of my present their pilgrimage, have proffered us intensity of delight would subdue my what little information they possess, strengtń for the remainder of the day. concerning this rocky mountain, and I am gazing like a monarch from in return, besides some little matter in this exalted rocky throne on the widethe way of gratuity, they have received spread territory around me, too much a part of our provisions, including a excited to point out, in a systematic glass of good sherry for each of them. manner, the different objects that attract Even now their thank-offering is sound the eye, or to contrast the beauties on ing in my ears. The blessing of the the east and west with those on the aged poor is a precious thing, and when north and south. It pleases me more duly earned and truly offered, it ought to revel, without restraint, in the unto be more highly valued than the bounded prodigality that bewilders and “ dust of diamonds.
I have heard that a celebrated poet, And is there a fairer scene, a more on .visiting this place, full of enthusiimpressive spectacle than the pile of astic and ardent anticipations, was so crags, arches, clefts, hanging woods, disgusted on finding two soldiers playand roaring waters of the new Weir ? | ing at cards on the proudest summit of Can it be, that the eye can gaze on a
this commanding cliff, that he hurried more arresting, prospect, a yet more back from the scene utterly unable to goodly and glorious assemblage of wood, overcome his disgust sufficiently to alrock, plain and water, of towering low him the delight of feasting his eyes height and dark and deep abyss, than on the entrancing scene. Fully can I is to be found at Symond's Yat? Yes ! enter into his susceptibility: It is possible, for now I am standing
Windcliff and Piercefield Park abound on the dizzy height of Windcliff, the in all that is bold, beauteous, grand, most magnificent and sublime of Bri- awful, savagely wild, and extravagantly tish scenes.
Full as my mind and romantic. It is said that “a vast and memory are of the numberless beauties well-preserved ruin is the most beauof the winding Wye, of Goodrich, the tiful of buildings." Chepstow Castle and new Weir, the glowing scene at Sy- Tintern Abbey, two of the fairest ruins in mond's Yat, and of the eye and heart- England, are of themselves pictures of inarresting remains of Tintern Abbey, I tense interest. The heights in the scenery