same strength as Hohentwiel. And on our road from Singen, looking in a north-west direction, we saw not less than five of these lofty mounts, crowned with castles,* rising in different parts of a great level. From Schaffhausen to Singen the country is fine: hills of moderate height, generally covered with green woods, here and there insulated eminences, clothed with similar plantations of firs, or young beech and oak trees-winding roads are the principal constituents of the scenery, which, but for the appearance of vines, would have made us fancy ourselves in England. As you proceed the prospects open-and plains extending wide are bounded by cultivated as well as woody bills.-Deviating a little from the direct road to Stokach, we reached Rudolfs-Zell, and thence viewed the Unter-see,t or inferior lake of Constance. It is a charming piece of water, enriched with fruitful fields on the Suabian borders, and foliaged eminences on those of Switzerland. Our perspective to the south-east was terminated by the beautiful island of Reichenau, and an elevated range of country studded on the side of Thurgovia with towns and villages, and with convents and chateaux crowning the neighbouring heights. In the little hamlet of Popemann, near Zell, is a chapel dedicated to the Mater Dolorosa of the Romanists. Hohentwiel, Hohen howen, Hohen stofflen, Hohen-staufen, Hohen. krähen. The three first named are visible from the Culm of Mount Righi, near Lucerne. + The Zellersee (or Untersee) is sixteen miles long and about ten broad. The isle of Reichenau (a league in length and half a league in breadth) which with its Benedictine Abbey in Mr. Coxe's time belonged to the Bishop of Constance, now appertains to the domain of the Grand Duke of Baden. The same expedient of ex-votos is there resorted to (for all occasions and against all accidents) that we found so highly popular in other Catholic districts through which we had passed. In one of the pictures which hung near the altar was a peasant kneeling by the side of his cow. In the clouds was his Saintly Patroness pouring down a stream of milk (if we might judge by its colour) which touches the udder of the animal. This is done in the presence of the Virgin Mary who sits in the highest heavens with a dead Christ in her lap! On our asking the landlady of the neighbouring inn, what was the meaning of such bieroglyphics; she told us that it was the religious custom of the people, whenever any serious illness or affliction occurred to them, to make a vow to some saint, and, if they recovered or obtained the object of their prayers, they presented a picture or other offering in fulfilment of such vow, and as a memorial of the miracle which had been wrought in their behalf. When moreover a murrain seizes their cattle, or their cows cease to give milk, they pray to some favourite Saint to intercede with the Blessed Virgin to exert her all powerful influence with her Son, that the pestilence may be stopped and the lacteal fountain again may flow. And who, that has seen, as here and elsewhere he may do, the super-abundant records of successful application, can seriously come to any other conclusion than that the Church, which sanctions such Apostolic practices, must be that “true and only saving” one, to whose Priesthood it is given "To plead our cause in that high place, Continuing to coast along the north-western arm of the lake, through a marshy tract (according to the foolish advice of an ignorant guide) we had nearly paid forfeit with our carriage and baggage; for the waters had risen and covered the road that lies along on the shore. habitant of Sernatingen, however, perceiving the hazard we ran, came to us, and acting the part of a true friend at need, piloted our vehicle through the flood and saved us from a serious misadventure. Arrived at the village above named, we were favoured with a brighter sky than had attended our noon-day's journey; and were thereby enabled to discern beyond the vast expanse of waters, the gigantic forms and hoary summits of the Tyrolese and Appenzel chain, like all other "Far off mountains, turning into clouds." After the lakes we had previously visited, this branch, (only the extremity) of the great Boden-see presented an aspect of inferior interest. It belongs not however to us to boast of having seen the lake of Constance, properly so called. At Stockach, picturesquely situated on a rising ground, we beheld a fine effect of sun-set on the Rætian Alps to the south-east, and on the champaign country stretching as far as the Black Forest to the west and north; a country which one is induced to contemplate with yet stricter attention from recollecting that, during the revolutionary war, it was repeatedly the scene of the most obstinate and sanguinary engagements, fought with alternate success, between the contending armies of France and Austria. The road for miles and miles is lined on each side with apple and pear trees; and so plentiful was the crop that the branches of most of them were, as a matter of necessity, propped up with poles.-The peasantry in these parts appear to be very poor: the women, employed in some of the hardest field-work, carry enormous weights of grass and other things on their heads, and the far greater number of them have neither stockings nor shoes. The men wear immensely large triangular cocked hats, which form a ludicrous set off to their blue smock-frocks.-Oxen of a large and powerful breed are used at plough and in the team. The sheep are also full sized.-This quarter of the Duke of Baden's dominions is entirely Catholic. 1 17th.-Duttlingen is a large place, with wide streets and lofty houses built of stone, in a very heavy stile. The church corresponds with the rest of the town as to bulk and architecture. Considerable business is carried on here in cutlery and shoemaking, and in the manufactory of net for pantaloons. The tradesmen attend the different fairs, within an extensive circumference, including those of Switzerland. The postmaster (whose inn is a good one) informed us that he never remembered to have seen so many persons travelling through the country, as there had been this summer: people of all nations, English, French, Russians, and Poles, as well as Germans. The students of the different Universities were particularly numerous; of those indeed we had ourselves met a great many pedestrianizing among the Alps, and some of them shaping their course towards Italy. It was at Duttlingen that we crossed the Danube, whose name alone would have been sufficiently calculated to interest us, even if the river itself were not the wide and rapid stream which it is, although so near its source at the foot of the Schwartzwald.*-As we looked over the parapets of the stone bridge upon this celebrated current, swelled by the rains of the preceding night, it was impressive as an illustration of Nature's bounty to reflect, that the waves then rushing past us from west to east had their remote destination through and beyond the mightiest states of southern Germany. What indeed would Suabia, Bavaria, Austria, or Hungary be but a succession of barren wastes, without the Danube and those hundred rivers which join it in its course to the Black Sea! By such admirable provisions, however, at the call of Creative Wisdom, The desert smil'd, And paradise was open'd in the wild. The road, which is a fine chaussée, lies through a wide vale, consisting of open fields chiefly arable with a scanty intermixture of pastures, bounded on all sides by wooded hills. There are no vineyards in this neighbourhood. It is almost wholly corn-land; and the harvest was in progress, all the crops being ready for cutting except the oats, which are the latest sown. The wheat, oats, and barley are severally tied up in sheaves; and, it seems, that every tenth sheaf is taken by the Government of the King of Würtemberg (whose territory we have now entered) for the maintenance of the clergy, the salary of the civil officers, and pay of the troops. The general practice is to put up this tenth of the produce to be purchased at auction, by the highest bidder in every hunderte, or Mons Abnoba, of Tacitus; the southern extremity of Hercynia Silva, now called the Black Forest. |