1786.

paint to him my love, that he may yet come and know the value of it.'

Zefte returned to the European: fhe calmed his alarms, reprefented in ftrong colours the affection of her mistress, and the happiness she offered him. The imprudent young man, incapable of refifting their feducing defcription, again made new promifes; but was fcarcely left to himself when the image of an ignominious death again made him violate his rafh oaths. Patience itself has its limits; that of Gemile lafted long. For nine months had the folicited an interview with a man whom he had only feen for a moment; fhe had often excufed him, although he little deferved it; her unfuccessful attempts only gave rife to new ones; and fhe could not bear to lose the fruit of fo much pains. One evening which he had fpent in tears, and in which the had forgotten herself in the bower in thinking of him fhe loved, and whofe image for ever haunted her, the old Haffan became tired of waiting for her, and treated her harthly. The charm was broken; fhe retired in a rage to her a partment-Defpairing love at firft dictated nothing but vengeance against the European, but afterwards foftened the rigour of the fentence which Gemile pronounced. Liften,' said she, to her faithful Zefte; repair to-morrow by the rifing of the fun to the perfidious European, and tell him from me thefe laft words: Stranger, when I saw you, I thought you poffeffed of fenfibility, and withed to bestow my heart upon you. For nine months you have deceived me; you have made light of perjury. Take care*, your life is in my power, and I am enraged. Tomorrow Hallan fets out for Faoue; it will be late before he returns: I fhall pass the day in the country. Come and receive at my feet your pardon, or a flave fhall bring me your head. I fwear by the holy prophet," Gemile fhall be revenged or appealed.'

Zefte faithfully reported the commands of her mistress. The European now no longer deliberated. The death which promifed him pleasure appeared to him the moft eligible; he made a prefent to the flave, and conjured her to calm the rage of Gemile; and affure her he would not fail to be at the rendezvous foon after the fetting of the fun. Nevertheless he was not without his fears. Might not this be a fnare laid for him? would the not wish to punifh fo many repeated difappointments? did a Turkish woraan know the pleafure of forgiving? or if fhe did, would her wounded pride allow her? The hour at length arrived-his agitation increased -a thousand thoughts distracted N O T E.

A Turkish lady can eafily procure the affaffination of a franger, or even punish him capitally; her will is fuficient. Hib. Mag. Nov. 1785.

593

his mind; but it did not fignify-go he must. The idea of a beautiful woman waiting for him fired his imagination, and hid the danger from his view. Having previously armed himself, he walked towards the wood till he reached the wall which divided him from the beautiful Georgian. His heart began to palpitate; and fatisfied that no one faw him, he leaped over the wall into the garden. At his appearance two women ftarted up and appeared frightened; he flood motionlefs. One of them (it was Gemile) ftretched out her hand to him and removed his fears. He walked towards her and fell proftrate at her feet; the kindly raised him from the ground, made a fign, and her flave disappeared. Stranger, faid fhe to him, why have you deceived me fo long- -you do not love me then? Pardon, beautiful Gemile, the fear which has prevented me till this moment; but I fall at your feet to make atonement for your wrongs.' She wished to renew her reproaches, but they died upon her lips. She took the trembling youth by the hand, and conducted him into a thick bower of orangetrees. The filver moon enlightened the foliage; the verdant turf was ftrewed with flowers; the delightful perfumes of the plants overwhelmed the fenfes with inexpreffible delight; the thin filken habit of the beautiful Gemi'e hardly concealed her charms; the moments were precious; and hiftory adds, that the two lovers knew well how to make ufe of them.

To the Editor of the Hibernian Magazine. Continuation of a Tour in the South of

Ireland.

(Continued from p. 369, of our Magazine for July, 1783.)'

ROM Glanmire we rode eight: miles to

FROM Glanmire we rode eight miles to

Caftlemartyr. The fine feat and improvements of Lord Shannon add confiderable luftre to this beautiful village; particularly an artificial river winding in beautiful meanders through the gardens and crofling the ftreet of the town, giving the whole a pleafing romantic appearance. Eight miles more brought us to Youghal.

This is a confiderable town, fituated on the Weft fide of a bay of the fame name, which fepárates it from the county of Waterford. On the oppofite fide of the town is a very high hill, on the fummit of which part of the old walls are yet ftanding Youghal confifts principally of one street, about a mile in length, which runs along the water fide; from this the lanes run up the hill before-mentioned. Upon an exact numeration the houfes were found to be about 890, which being very well inhabited, may contain 7,000 people. The buildings are in Ffff

genera

general mean, and old-fashioned in the outide appearance. The Quay has been much improved of late, by parliamentary grants, and private expence.In the center of the town ftands an handsome goal, adorned with a clock and cupola. The church is a very large and ancient building, containing feveral very curious monuments. The trade of the town feems increafing. Its exports confifts of pork, butter, and corn. There is a pretty confiderable fishery carried on here, and fome branches of the woollen manufacture.

The principal ornament of the town is the Mall, a beautiful gravelled walk with trees at each fide, fituated at the water-fide, and feparated from the ftreet by a low wall. From this walk we fee veffels failing up and down the Bay, others at anchor, and the rifing grounds in the county Waterford, all together forming a profpect delightfully variegated.

The government of the town is by a mayor, aldermen, and common-council, who, with the freemen, return to parliament two reprefentatives, nominated by a neighbouring nobleman; this town being one of the rotten members of the commonwealth, which requires the inftrument of the furgeon to separate it from the body for its

recovery.

From Youghal we rode ten miles, principally over an uncultivated mountain to Tallow. This town is fituated in a beautiful valley, lying between two ridges of very high hills, from whofe fummit, Tallow and the beautiful river Bride, makes a pleafing appearance. The number of houfes in this town may be about 500. How the inhabitants make out a livelihood was quite imperceptible to us, for a few fhops in the marketfquare, and two or three women spinning wool in the fuburbs were the only appear ances of trade this place afforded.

The landlord never refides in this nation, and annually drawing a fum of thirty thoufand pounds from this eftate, little of which ever returns, must leave the place in great poverty; but the cafe is not fingular.

The government of the town is by the Duke of Devonshire's seneschal, who, by his mafter's order, returns two members to parliament; the inhabitants or potwalloppers have a legal right to vote.

The river Bride runs about half a mile North of this town, where we passed it by a ftone bridge, and upon mounting the hill, had a fine view of it, winding in ferpentine meanders, as if designed by art. This winding, in fome measure, obftructs its navigation, yet flat-bottomed boats come up to the bridge. Thus have the people of Tallow an eafy communication by water with Youghal

Lifmore is four miles from Tallow. Upɑn entering this town a traveller would hardly imagine it to have been a great univerity, a bishop's fee, and a city. Little of its ancient luftre remains. The cathedral, part of the caftle, a few good houses, interspersed among fome hundreds of cabins, now conftitu the famous city of Lifmore-Yet this towe returns as many representatives to parliament as the metropolis!

There is fill lefs appearance of trade here than in Tallow. We faw feveral very gen. teel equipages pass through the town, whence we concluded there must be feveral people of property in the neighbourhood.

The caftle was built by king John is 1189. It is very boldly fituated on the verge of a rock, the height of a moderate steeple, perpendicular above the Black-water. At looking out of the window of the great room, a ftranger is apt to ftart back with furprise; for at entering he does not perceive its amazing height over the river, being o the ground-floor, and much lower than the ftreet of the town. The entrance is by an ancient and venerable avenue of ftately tree. Over the gate are the arms of the firft great Earl of Corke, with this motto: “God's Providence is our Inheritance." Some parts of the building are kept in repair, and inha bited by the Duke of Devonshire's agent.

From the caftle we are prefented with one of the moft delightful profpects imaginable. On the Eaft, the river gliding down a wellwooded vale to Cappoquin, whofe caftle, ftanding on an eminence, appears confpicu ous: Several good farm-houses intersperfed gives to the whole a pleafing variegation. To the North, exactly oppofite the great window, a deep and wide glin, pleasantly watered, prefents itfelf, and at about the diftance of a mile winds off to the weft-fide of the great mountain of Knock-mele-down, which, at the distance of four or five miles, appears like a huge cone or fugar-loaf. Ta the Weft, is a full profpect of the falmos fishery. The noife of the water through the weirs adds a lulling foftness to the beauty of the fcene. Above the weirs the fides of the river are beautifully variegated with woods, lawns, and corn fields.

The poffeffor of this beautiful place never refides in the kingdom. Were it in poffi fion of one who would spend even a few mouths here annually, and appropriate a fmall portion of the rents which he receives, to improve its natural beauties, I know fer places in the kingdom would transcend Lifmore.

Though thus nobly fituated, its venerable caftle is going to ruins; and though one at the fineft navigable rivers in the nation runs by the town, the inhabitants are almost destitute of employment.

2786.

But, in justice to the Duke of Devonshire, I must not omit the noble bridge built a few years ago at his private expence. One arch alone of this bridge croffes the great river Blackwater, it is elliptic and 102 feet wide. There are 10 other arches for the overflow in floods. This stupendous arch, juft under the castle, adds¡much to the magnificence of the scene.

There are in Lifmore a tolerable hand some cathedral, a great free school, and an alms-house for fix old men, who are each allowed 51. a year, their firing, and a great

coat.

From Lifmore we rode through the glin before-mentioned, to the mountains of Knock-mele-down. Though this be the only paffage northward from Lifmore, and the direct way from Youghal, and feveral other towns, to the principal parts of the County Tipperary, the road is only the tracks of those who crossed the mountain before us, and that so incumbered with loose ftones, that we were more than three hours riding feven miles. A carriage cannot at all pafs this way, but muft go about many miles. During these three hours we faw not a fingle hut. At length we gained the highest part of the road, and inftantly were prefented with a fine view of the fertile plains of the County Tipperary, like a beautiful garden below. The fudden view, from between two prodigious high mountains, had a very fine effect, and resembled part of a beautiful fcene in a theatre, exposed by drawing up a corner of the curtain. We descended about a mile to Clogheen, on the great Cork road, and lodged at a good inn. This is a poor town. From Clogheen we rode fix miles to Ballypooreen, a miferable village; thence afcending the Kilworth mountain, eight miles more brought us to Kilworth. This town contains fome hundreds of houses, but no trade. Here we faw a church, having rode 13 or 14 miles without paffing one. Three miles from Kilworth is Fermoy, a poor village on the Black-water. Thence, having rode three miles more, we arrived at Rathcormuck, a borough town, with one decent street, and several streets of cabins, containing, perhaps, as many people as Kilworth, and as little employment for them. Near this town are two handsome feats, one of which, belonging to a Mr. Devonshire, was the beft houfe we yet faw in Munster. Twelve miles more, through a country Bot remarkable for beauty, brought us back to the great eity of Cork.

We here found a fenfible relief from that oppreffion of spirits under which we labour ed fince we left this city. A country enjoy ing every natural advantage, almoft depopulated to make way for the beafts of the

595

field; the abject poverty, and miferable flavery of the few peasants, and the almost as wretched ftate of the numerous inhabitants of the poor villages, muft fenfibly affect any mind poffeffed of the leaft particle of patriotifm, or even with the common feelings of humanity. The natural beauties of many of the scenes afforded a momentary pleasure to the imagination; but the defolation of the country, fuffered us not long to enjoy the pleasing sensation.

The wages of labourers in the country are generally 5d. or 6d. a day; out of this they have to pay 51. per acre for potatoo-ground, and fometimes more. After they have planted. their potatoes, dug them out of the ground, and paid the rent, the tythe-man must have his share, before the poor people are fuffered to eat any themfelves. Thus are they oppreffed on every fide. The farmer withholds part of the value of their labour, and charges more than the value of his ground-the pluralift takes away their property without giving an equivalent, under the fanction of divine right.

Moft of the poor people are Papifts-a very few are Proteftants; the cafe of these latter is very hard: Four or five parishes are generally united, and one church ferves them all. In fome unions indeed there is not one. Hence, several Proteftants have 5, 6, 7, or more miles of very bad roads to go to the nearest church, which renders it quite im practicable for thofe in low circumftances to get their children to church, or indeed their wives, except in the middle of summer. Notwithstanding that four in five of the parishes have no public worship kept up, yet, under pretence of fupporting the Proteftant church, are the people obliged to pay much more than is paid in the northern part N Ο T E.

*We shall mention one inftance, among many, to prove the depopulation of the country. A gentleman in the northern parts of the county Cork, who held four large farms, containing about 1700 acres, took a fifth farm, of 600 acres, at about 12 miles diftance from his dwelling. On this farm lived 42 families, who maintained themselves by tillage. The natural humanity of this gentleman induced him to keep on the land as many of these little farmers, as he could employ as labourers; but 600 acres under black cattle, requiring but few, far the greater number were obliged to feek a precarious fubfiftence elfewhere. This happened in 1780. The only fingularity in this cafe, is the humanity of the gentleman, in endeavouring to find employment for fome of these poor people, and giving some little time to the others, to feek huts to protect their families from the weather.

of

of the kingdom, where regular fervice is performed in every parish, many things being tythable here, which in the North are exempt. This great oppreffion of tythe falls heavieft on the most useful members of the community. The grazier, who depopulates a thousand acres of land, pays no tythe; while the industrious farmer, who employs a great number of poor people in tilling an hundred acres, is taxed the tenth part of his produce, which is often a fourth of his profit. While tythes remain as at prefent, in vain does parliament offer bounties to encourage tillage. What bounty would fo much conduce to its encouragement, as the total abolition of this pernicious tax? A very fmall tax by the acre on grazing land, would afford a much better provision for the clergy in actual fervice, than they receive from their mafters, who take away the fourth or fifth part of the poor man's property for nothing.

The great hofpitality and urbanity of the inhabitants of Corke, induced us to continue feveral weeks in this city, and rendered it the most agreeable place we touched at in our journey. We had full opportunity of obferving the fine fituation of this town' for foreign traffic, and with pleasure that the inhabitants make use of that advantage. In hort, we were so pleased with this place, that we left it with infinite regret.

This great city is partly fituated on feveral little iflands, formed by the river Lee, and partly on rifing grounds at each fide of the river. The city, properly fo called, is entirely furrounded by the river; on the North and South fide the river are extenfive fuburbs. The North fuburbs confifts of two parishes, the city of three, and the South fuburbs of two more, in all feven. The length of the whole, from North to South, is about two English miles; the breadth, from Eaft to Weft, about half a mile. In extent, and number of inhabitants, it may be about one-third of the fize of Dublin, being about as large as Briftol; the number of houfes may be 9,000, and inha bitants 90,000.

Formerly feveral fmall channels of the river were open, whence, except the Mainftreet, there was nothing in the city deferving the name of street, the whole confifting N

T E.

of a great number of narrow lanes, and irregular, and inconvenient quays. But now thefe channels are moftly either filled up, or arched over, whereby feveral wide and handsome fireets have been formed, by the union of the quays at each fide. The streets, however, are in general narrow, and very inelegantly built. The houses are almoft univerfally weather-flated, which gives them a very heavy and dull appearance; and though a good tafte is thewn in the variety of flating in the modern buildings, yet the houfes have not that fprightly appearance, that thofe of brick have in other towns. Notwithstanding the general meannels of the buildings, of late years many elegant private ftructures have been erected, which, if difpofed in regular ftreets, would add much to the beauty of the city; but a want of uniformity and regularity through the whole is obfervable.

Corke formerly confifted of eleven parishes, when it did not contain a third part of the number of its present inhabitants. Abort 50 years ago, by dividing fome parishes, and uniting others, they were formed into feven, and fix new churches built, St. Peter's being the only old one left standing : St. Peter's is now rebuilding.

St Anne Shandon's church is fituated on a great eminence in the North fuburbs This is a large and elegant ftructure with a tall fteeple, which appears to great advantage from the lower parts of the town, dif ferent in this refpect from St. Patrick's in Dublin, which, although much higher, from its low fituation, has not fo magnifi cent an appearance.-St. Anne's has a good ring of bells; St. Mary Shandon's, St. Paul's, and St. Nicholas's, are neat and commodious buildings, but without fteeples

Christ church is the largest and moft mag nificent in the city, being accounted one of the largest modern parish churches in the kingdom: It is faid to contain three thousand people. The building is of hewn ftone, an elegant, though plain ftyle. By real of the foundation finking, the fteeple wa taken down as far as the roof of the hou in 1749; fince which time the remaining part feems to threaten destruction to the pa fenger, by its perceptible inclination to one fide. 'Tis a great pity the whole was p taken down, and entirely rebuilt, that this fine building fhould not be without the or ment of a steeple

The cathedral church of St. Finbar situated on a rising ground, is a neat brik ing of hewn ftone, with a tall fpire fteepi And a good ring of bells. In appearance differs not from a parifa church, being muc lefs than Chrift-church.

The parifhes are much more equally d

vided than, those in Dublin, though they are all very large.

There are five meeting-houfes in Cork, for diffenters of various fects, and 11 Popifh chapels.

We vifited feveral hofpitals and other charitable foundations, but there being nothing peculiar in their economy, fhall not trouble you with their defcriptions; only that we must not pafs over unnoticed, the fociety for the relief and difcharge of poor debtors. This confifts of a large number of citizens, who fubfcribe annually fuch fum as each thinks proper. This money is dif pofed of in the maintenance of poor prifoners for debt, or for their release, when it can be obtained upon reasonable terms. Many hundreds of the unfortunate induftrious have been restored to their families and the public by this humane fociety. The inftitution is well worthy imitation by other cities and counties. We understand the fetting on foot fuch a fociety in the county Tipperary is in contemplation. Doubtlefs, those active in such charities, from good motives, will receive the reward our Lord promised to those whom he thus addreffed: "I was fick and in prifon, and ye miniftered unto me."-"In as much as ye did it unto the least of these my brethren, ye did it unto me."

The exchange is an handsome building, adorned with a clock and cupola: In the hall stands a pedestrian statue (as we fuppofed) of one of their mayors.

The mayoralty-houfe is a large commodious building of ftone, not remarkable for elegance, the entrance being but mean. In it is a pedestrian ftatute of the late Lord Chatham of white marble. A late defpicable writer from the next ifland (Twifs) tells us this statue was actually painting in oil colours; this, you may be affured, was a falfhood, though not the firft made ufe of by his countrymen to ridicule the poor Irish, whofe greatest faible is making too much of thefe evil fpies when they come amongst us.

Though the mayoralty-houfe be but five minutes walk from the exchange in the center of the city, yet it is quite open to the Country at one fide. From it, weftward, runs a beautiful walk, a mile long, and planted at each fide with elms, called Mardyke, or the Red Houfe Walk. At either fide, the lands rifing in gentle hills, ornamented with a great number of neat villas, gardens, and plantations, together with the windings of the river, prefent a landscape beautifully variegated. Yet this walk is little frequented by the genteeler citizens, they chufing rather to walk in the middle of the Grand Parade, a noble ftrget lately formed by arching over one of the fmall channels, and joining two quays, before not remark

able for elegance. This noble street is very wide, and of a confiderable length, and if rebuilt of brick in a regular manner, would be one of the finest in the kingdom. Some of the houses on the parade are good, and many of the fhops elegant, but many are mean and low. In the midft is an equeftrian ftatue of the late king.

The county and city goals are over the gates at each end of the main ftreet. I shall not defcribe the custom-houfe, corn markethoufe, nor the two barracks, which latter generally contain two regiments of foot.

Affemblies and balls are frequent in this city, for which they have fpacious and fu perb rooms: there is likewife a good theatre. Sedan-chairs feem more numerous here than in Dublin, in proportion to the extent and opulence of the two places; but this may easily be accounted for, as they have no hackney coaches, of which 400 conftantly ply in the ftreets of Dublin.

It is needlefs to fay that the trade of Corke is very great, as this fact is well known to every one. At prefent fome of the merchants in Corke far exceed in opulence any others in the nation. I fhall juft mention that the cotton manufacture is gaining ground in this city, one gentleman alone (Mr. H. Sadleir) employing about nine thousand people (men, women, and children) in that manufacture.

I cannot but admire at the impudence of feveral Englishmen, who have written tours and travels in Ireland, in pretending to give a full and particular defcription of this ifland, after having fpent only a few weeks in riding poft through it. I fufpect the greater number of thefe authors are runners to the manufacturers in England; but to these people alone, this ignorance is not confined. It is well known Twifs was a man of fortune, and had gotten a decent education; but he had that fupercilious contempt of Ireland, which all his countrymen from ignorance entertain, or from a miftaken policy affect. He likewife had a mind to be a virtuofo ; but it is plain he was not fit for it. All his knowledge was in getting a few hard terms by rote, and a catalogue of the most famous rarities of nature and art, and where depo fited. His mentioning the fine ftatue of the Earl of Chatham, fhews plainly that although he might have seen it, he did not know it; for he took an old image of plaifter of Paris, which ftands in the mayoralty-houfe, for the white marble ftatue *.

NOT E.

This

A gentleman, whom I heard of in aimost every part of Ireland that I vifited, has this remarkable affertion, relative to the ftatue of Lord Chatham, marked in italics, in his Tour in Ireland. A house-painter

was