THE TOILETTE AND ITS DEVOTEES.

take a brief glance at the characteristic peculiari-
ties of the several nations of the world. Fashion
and her arbitrary laws obtain in all countries—
with the rude as well as the polished classes of so-
ciety, there being ever some Beau Brummells
at hand to issue her mandates and illustrate her
protean shapes and endless metamorphoses. Leigh
Hunt informs us that fashions have a short life or
a long one, according as it suits the makers to
startle us with a variety, or save themselves ob-
or handsome people are fugitive, and such are
usually those that bring custom to the milliner.
If we keep watch on our older one, we shall gen-
erally trace it, unless of general convenience, to
some pertinacity on the part of the aged: the
trousers or pantaloons, that have so long displaced
the "small clothes," often perhaps owe their con-

By nothing, perhaps, save his boasted reason, is man more signally distinguished from the lower orders of creation, than by the decorations of the toilette-the drapery and various appendages with which he invests his person. So universal is the custom among all civilized communities, that an individual would as soon think of intermitting his necessary food as to attempt to infringe upon the claims of so irreversible a decree. Some there are, it is true, of more pristime habits, whose unsophisticated tastes induce a preference for the pure-servation of a defect. Hence fashions set by young ly natural over the artificial in this respect a state of nature to that of art: but these belong to the untutored and the rude of savage life, and therefore the less said about them the better. There is, moreover, less of the feeling of compulsion in complying with the requisition, from the prevalent passion for adornment and decoration, of which all are, to a greater or less degree, the victims.-tinuance to some general defect which they help It seems somewhat strange that nature, in her lavish distribution of fleece, and fur, and gaudy plumage, should have left the monarch of all mundane creatures in a state of destitution, which it so sorely taxes his purse to supply; but so the fact is, and against it there is no appeal. The world has been long accustomed to do homage to elegance and refinement in costume; it is not surprising therefore that it should have become a matter of such universal regard among the various sections and classes of society.

to screen. The aged are glad to retain them, and so be confounded with the young; and among the latter there are more limbs, perhaps, to which loose clothing is acceptable than tight. More legs and knees, we suspect, rejoice in those ample cloaks than would be proud to acknowledge themselves in a shoe and stocking. Mr. Hazlitt also states, in his Life of Napoleon, that during the consulate all the courtiers were watching the head of the state to know whether mankind were to wear their own hair or powder; and that Bonaparte Pride of personal appearance was naturally one luckily settled the matter by deciding in favor of result of a passion for dress, alike evinced by the nature and cleanliness. It was the plain head of rude trappings of the untutored savage, and the Dr. Franklin, when he was ambassador at Paris, gorgeous appendages of refinement and luxury.- that first amused and afterwards interested the It is in fact difficult to determine whether the same giddy polls of his new acquaintances who went may not be affirmed of those who affect the great-and did likewise. Luckily this was a fashion that est simplicity in their habiliments, for it is not suited all ages, and on that account it has surcertain that the Quaker, even, is wholly divested vived. A recent writer in the Edinburgh Review of vanity, although he may be of the finery he re-observes: "Peculiarities of dress, even amounting pudiates. Dr. Gall, in remarking upon the innate to foppery, so common among eminent men, are love of approbation, states that in the south of carried off from ridicule by ease in some, or stateFrance it is customary for drivers to decorate their liness in others. We may smile at Chatham, mules with bouquets when they travel well: and scrupulously crowned in his best wig, if intending that it is a most painful infliction upon their com- to speak; at Erskine, drawing on his bright yelplacency to be deprived of the distinction. Many low gloves, before he rose to plead; at Horace a similar proof of this susceptibility of the compli- Walpole, in a cravat of Gibbon's carvings; at mentary in the brute creation might be adduced, Raleigh, loading his shoes with jewels so heavy especially with domesticated animals; but we will that he could scarcely walk; at Petrarch, pinchlet one case suffice. It is that of a female ape, ing his feet till he crippled them; at the rings belonging to the learned doctor just referred to: which covered the philosophical fingers of Aristo"Whenever they give her," he says, "a handker-tle; at the bare throat of Byron; the Armenian chief she throws it over her head, and seems to take dress of Rousseau; the scarlet and gold coat of a wonderful deal of pleasure and pride in seeing Voltaire; or the prudent carefulness with which it drag behind her, like the train of a court robe." Cæsar scratched his head, so as not to disturb the Fashion, the veriest despot in her decrees, ar-locks arranged over the bald place. But most of bitrates, through the agency of her devotees the these men, we apprehend, found it easy to enforce milliner, the modiste and the tailor-the style and respect and curb impertinence." manner of one's habiliments; and so sovereign and absolute is her sway in this matter, that it is difficult perhaps to indicate any class that may boast exemption from her jurisdiction. We do not, however, purpose to collate and compare the varieties of costume in various ages; but rather to

It would be impossible within the short limits of a magazine paper to enter upon the details of a subject so copious in its historic data: nor can we attempt to go into a minute examination of the prodigal magnificence of the wardrobe of distinguished personages, among whom, in this particu

it regards female beauty, we shall not venture to and delicacy, that of manly beauty should be apoffer any remarks; it is a delicate topic. Where all styles of beauty are so rife it would be exceedingly difficult and perhaps dangerous to discourse freely. We prefer rather closing our rambling and half-finished essay with a brief extract of rather an instructive and admonitory character, which may not be inapposite to our subject:

"The attributes of personal beauty may be reduced to four: color, form, expression, and grace. Colors please by opposition, and it is in the face that they are most diversified and exposed. Thus contrasts are essential, and sallow complexions should be set off by dark cravats and clothing; whilst fairer features may adopt lighter hues.Beauty of form includes the symmetry of the whole body, even to the turn of the eyebrow or the graceful flow of the hair. Hence the perfect union and harmony of all parts of the body is the source and general cause of beauty; and whilst the peculiar attraction of the female form should be softness

parent strength and agility. Expression may be considered as the effect of the passions on the muscles of the human countenance, and the different gestures. The finest combination is a just mixture of modesty and sensibility. Indeed, all the benign affections such as love, hope, joy and pity-add to beauty; while the predominence of hatred, fear, or envy in the mind, deform or injure the countenance. Grace is perhaps the noblest part of beauty. The mouth is the chief seat of grace, as the expressive beauty of the passions springs principally from the eyes. There is no grace without motion, and no impropriety can be united with grace. With regard to the final effects of beauty, it may be said that our regard for taste, order, and simplicity, contributes mainly to our happiness, whilst it aids in an eminent degree, with mental qualifications, to promote social intercourse, and to create advantageous connexions with other individuals in society."

REMENISCENCES OF THE WHITE ROSE,
BY L OF EASTFORD HERMITAGE.

BY SIGMA.

[Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1848, by CHARLES W. HOLDEN, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York.]

XVIX.

REV. JOHN DURBIN, D. D.,

OF PHILADELPHIA,

OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, LATE PRESIDENT OF DICKINSON COLLEGE,

ENGRAVED FOR HOLDEN, BY J. H. RICHARDSON, FROM A STEEL ENGRAVING.

hardly be included in a circumference of three hundred miles.

ty. He need not be arrogant or self-sufficient, but he may be, and ought to be, calmly happy and gratefully joyful. He started-thirty-forty years It will doubtless excite surprise in the minds of ago, to do a great work, and the work is done.- many of our readers that Mr. Durbin could have He started to be, and he has become; to do, and ventured, or should have been permitted, to enter he has achieved. He started with no guide but upon the great work of a preacher at so early an the light of Heaven, and no companion but the age, and with such limited acquirements. He "rod and the staff," which comfort, to thread the had numbered as yet only eighteen years, and had wilderness of life; yet, as he passed on, a way received not even an ordinary New England pubopened among the trees. He started with no en- lic school education. Moreover, the only library couragement save his own valiant heart, but this to which he had access was readily disposed of on has carried him over mountain obstacles, and has his father's mantel piece, being composed of three bridged many a morass of despondency. He volumes-the Bible, Scott's First Lessons, and an started ignorant, and he has become learned; he old English history. He was more poorly equipstarted weak, and he has become strong; he start-ped with literary ammunition than the subject of ed unknown, and he has become renowned; he started with shadowy anticipations, and he looks back on substantial facts; he started, "weeping, bearing precious seed, and he has come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him."

the previous sketch, for Dr. Baird had Morse's Geography and the Shorter Catechism, not to speak of the Dutch sermon which he committed to memory without understanding a word of it.— To be sure, Mr. Durbin had what some one styles Truly should he uot joy in the past and glory "the best work on theology extant," but all comin the present? And more than this, he has been mentaries, exegeses, evidences, church histories, all the while working and achieving for the ad- &c., usually considered an essential outfit of a solvancement of humanity. He has been scattering dier of the Cross, unfortunately did not fall in his light, dispelling error, staying crime, removing way. Notwithstanding, he did preach, preach sorrow, wrong and trouble" from the earth.— too with vigor and effect, and his labors were Should he not rejoice? And although there is greatly blessed. What conclusion shall be derived much in the retrospection of the successful good from this fact? That learning is not essential to man to start the tear and evoke the sigh, although the preacher? By no means. Dr. Durbin himthe best must recall barren days, wasted opportu- self would not so conclude, albeit his early success nities, mistaken views, and by-path wanderings, would naturally predispose to such an inference. yet the recollection of these should mellow, not His future course of severe and unremitted study mar, the joy. Yes, we feel sure that the retro- in philosophy, languages, and science, is a practispection of the life which we propose to present cal demonstration that he of all men least undermust be accompanied with sincere joy, for Dr.rates the value of an education gained from books Durbin, the retired President of Dickinson College, But the fact does warrant one or two conclusions. was once a poor apprentice boy-and at the age And the first is, (a conclusion, however, of which of eighteen could do little more, in an intellectual this fact is a comparatively unimportant proof,) way, than read and write, and these by no means that Mr. Durbin had a native vigor and force of excellently. His early life was spent in Kentucky. mind, which is uncommon. In default of exterHis parents resided in Bourbon county of that nal assistance from books, he could rely on his State and his father was a farmer in moderate own genius and be sustained. He was naturally circumstances. John Durbin, like the distinguish-a fluent and effective speaker. He could speak ed subject of the pieceding sketch, was a farmer boy, and was taught to work, as all boys should be who are intended to be men. In 1814, when he was fourteen years of age, he commenced an apprenticeship in a cabinet maker's shop, where he remained three years. After this he worked one year at his trade, during which time he became very seriously impressed with religious truths, and at last rejoiced in the possession of the Christian's hope and the Christian's peace. His heart was also filled with Christian zeal.

The richness of a Saviour's love, the mercy of a pardoning God, and the solemnity of an eternal life so filled his soul and so touched the inmost springs of his being, that he felt a holy impulse to declare to others the truth he had found so precious, and set before all the light that had beamed so brightly and warmly on his own spirit.

the good thought that was in him so that others could receive it in its length and breadth and true bearings. He had, secondly, a knowledge which may be, but is not necessarily derived from books. He had what is generally styled a knowledge of human nature. This he could acquire, and did acquire, from the great book of humanity, which is open to all. This book he had read and studied. He knew the avenues to the human heart

He had closely ques

he could touch its secret springs, and could analyze its hidden workings. Nay, more, he had a heart of his own into which he had often searchingly looked. There he had seen the reflex of the heart of his brother man. tioned his own spirit, and the answerings had been worth to him a whole encyclopædia. In this lies the source of his power and the secret of his success. And this self-knowledge is the source of the power of every powerfully minded man. With

The impulse was so resistless, that he relinquished his business, and, in two months, had join-out this books are of little worth. All ability to ed the Western Conference, and commenced his labors, as a preacher, in Ohio and Indiana. This field of labor was very extensive, if it is allowable in such a case to measure by the superficies; for the places at which he regularly preached could

influence and control the minds of others by writing or by speaking has its foundation in this.Mere facts, mere information, are of little worth except as connected with and subservient to principles, and those principles which are brought into

regular routine of school duties, that he should have fulfilled these duties without any interruption to his preaching, and that he should have at last attained his present influential position as a theologian, a scholar and an orator, eminent in the very departments to which he was at first a stranger and an alien, is indeed worthy of being dwelt upon and talked about. It teaches a beautiful lesson of encouragement to young men. Perse

impulse given to the mind by Christianity. Mr. Durbin, previous to his becoming a Christian, had not read or studied more than other boys-perhaps not as much as many do in similar circumstances. He had worked regularly at his trade, and spent

use by the speaker or the author cannot be appreciated except as they are developed from one's own inner being by introspection. The noblest thoughts, the most poetical imaginings, the sublimest truths are "powerless upon him as the sound of last year's running waters, or the rushing of last year's wind," unless there is already in the soul a something which answers to them, and corresponds with them. Mere reading cannot give this something. It is the product of an in-verantia vincit omnia. ward growth, nurtured by reflection, brought out There is another interesting psychological fact by self-examination. Hence it is that to some connected with this history, and indeed with the people the highest poetry is no better than " sound-histories of many other distinguished men, which ing brass and a tinkling symbol." Hence it is should not be passed unnoticed. We refer to the that the deep things of philosophy are to some minds mere nonsense, all moonshine-"transcendental." Where lay the fault when the Jews said to the Apostles, in reply to the earnest delivery of the holiest truths, "These men are full of new wine?" We would not undervalue "book learn-his leisure hours, as most boys do, in no particular ing"-far from it. But it is a fact, (and facts are way. But now it is all changed with him; now stubborn things,) that some of our completest ora- he studies English grammar on horseback; now tors and soundest statesmen have become so with he preaches from place to place; now he spends very little aid from books. Take John B. Gough hour after hour of the night in storing and trainas an example-perhaps the most genuine orator ing his mind. How is this? Why this change? that in this country ever bound the soul with the Has his soul become fired with ambition? Has magic spell; and yet Gough has not attended he suddenly become enamored of greatness? We school since he was twelve years old. Yet he has see no evidence of this. His subsequent life evinces studied-studied nature, studied men, studied him- no ambition, except that of doing good. Truly self. It is to this study that that of books must we cannot but regard this phenomenon as the nabe subservient and conducive. They should be tural and almost inevitable consequence of Chrisemployed as helps to this end. They are great tianity. The warmth of her heavenly rays warmhelps. Few men can succeed without largely ed into life his whole being. He had suddenly employing them; no man, unless he is gifted with awoke to the realities of life. The world was a uncommon acuteness and force of mind, and a na- new world to him. Before it was no more than tive disposition to reflect and observe. So far from a place in which to vegetate, or, at most, a "good undervaluing a regular collegiate education, we stand" in which to hoard up a few dollars to be deem it in most cases essential. The dangers left behind when the night of death should come. arising from the lack of it to one who is advanced Now it was a place in which to be and to do.— to the post of a religious teacher are many and The perfection of his being was to be accomplishgreat. The subject of a previous sketch furnished ed, and as for the good to be done, why the whole an illustration of these dangers, and led us to in-earth groans under the weight of it, and the sist on the importance of such a systematic, mental training as a college life affords. The selfeducated man, in the technical sense of the term, is liable to become the self-conceited, pedantic, and obtrusive man. The path of irregular education is hazardous, but we rejoice to say that Mr. Durbin escaped its dangers, until a regular course of study removed him from them for ever. From the outset he properly valued the education to be gained from books and teachers, and thus it was that, as he was riding on horseback through his circuit, in that new and sparsely settled country, he studied the English Grammar, preparatory to entering on an academical course. We honor him for the perception which led to the attempt, and the resolution which gained its accomplish

ment.

We have dwelt longer on this part of the history than perhaps the patience of our readers has lasted, because it is the interesting feature of Dr. Durbin's life. Other features, though of unusual interest, will be presented more briefly. That he should have commenced preaching before he entered on an academical course, that after this early entrance on the active duties of a professional life he should have applied himself to the

heavens cry out for workmen to do it. A new zest was given to existence. A fine enthusiasm fired his spirit. Progress, improvement, development-these were the noble ideas that started into being in his mind. And this was the fruit of Christianity. The true Christian not only improves in spirit and in temper, but also in mind, and we may add in manners. Christianity looks to the full and harmonious development of the whole man-not the religious nature alone, nor the emotions, nor the intellect, nor the imagination, but the soul, man's undivided spirit, which includes them all.

In 1821 Mr. Durbin connected himself with the Miami University, and commenced the study of Latin and Greek. While thus pushing his studies he did not relinquish his preaching, but, being stationed at Hamilton, a town twelve miles distant, he walked to his church at the close of each week and "divided the word of truth." In the year 1823, being now twenty-three years of age, he became a member of Cincinnati College, and was graduated in 1825. Of his college life we know little, except that his application to study was so severe as to injure materially his healthso that, on leaving college, he travelled through