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as the old joke says; but there were the scenery from the window. “Can tracks in the shingle of the beach show- it be possible," said I, “ that the tradiing where wheels had been, and these tions of Sybaris really linger here?" led me to a cart-track between high I sat quite in the front of the car, growths of that Mediterranean reed so that I could see the fate of my first which grows all along in those low friend Illúpov, — the full car. In a flats. There is one of the reeds on the very few minutes it switched off from hooks above my gun in the hall as you our track, leaving us still to pick up came in. I followed up the track, but our complement, and then I saw that it without seeing barn, house, horse, or dropped its mules, and was attached, man, for a quarter of a mile, perhaps, on a side track, to an endless chain, when behold,
which took it along at a much greater Not the footprint of a man! as to rapidity, so that it was soon out of sight. Robinson Crusoe ; —
I addressed my next neighbor on the Not a gallows and man hanging! as subject, in Greek which would have in the sailor story above named ;- made my fortune in those old days of
But a railroad track! Evidently a the pea-green settees. But he did not horse-railroad.
seem to make much of that, but in suf“A horse-railroad in Italy !” said ficiently good Italian told me, that, as I, aloud.“ A horse-railroad in Sybaris! soon as we were full, we should be atIt must have changed since the days of tached in the same way to the chain, the coppersmiths !” And I flung my- which was driven by stationary engines self on a heap of reeds which lay there, five or six stadia apart, and so indeed and waited.
it proved. We picked up one or two In two minutes I heard the fast step market-women, a young artist or two, of horses, as I supposed; in a minute and a little boy. When the child got more four mules rounded the corner, in, there was a nod and smile on peoand a " horse-car" came dashing along ple's faces ; my next neighbor said to the road. I stepped forward and waved me, IIlnpov, as if with an air of relief; my hand, but the driver bowed re- and sure enough, in a minute more, we spectfully, pointed back, and then to a were flying along at a 2.20 pace, with board on top of his car, and I read, as neither mule nor engine in sight, stophe dashed by me, the word
ping about once a mile to drop passen
gers, if there was need, and evidently Ilýpov,
approaching Sybaris. displayed full above him ; as one may All along now were houses, each with read Complet on a Paris omnibus. its pretty garden of perhaps an acre,
Now IIXípov is the Greek for full. no fences, because no cattle at large. “ In Sybaris they do not let the horse- I wonder if the Vineland people know railroads grind the faces of the passen- they caught that idea from Sybaris ! gers," said I. “ Not so wholly changed All the houses were of one story, — since the coppersmiths.” And, within stretching out as you remember Pliny's the minute, more quadrupedantal nois. villa did, if Ware and Van Brunt ever es, more mules, and another car showed you the plans, - or as Erastus which stopped at my signal. I en- Bigelow builds factories at Clinton. I tered, and found a dozen or more pas learned afterwards that stair-builders sengers, sitting back to back on a seat and slaveholders are forbidden to live which ran up the middle of the car, as in Sybaris by the same article in the you might ride in an Irish jaunting- fundamental law. This accounts, with car. In this way it was impossible for other things, for the vigorous health of the conductor to smuggle in a standing their women. I supposed that this was passenger, impossible for a passenger a mere suburban habit, and, though the to catch cold from a cracked window, houses came nearer and nearer, yet, and possible for a passenger to see as no two houses touched in a block,
I did not know we had come into the We sent down a tug to the cove city till all the passengers left the car, which I indicated on their topographiand the conductor courteously told me cal map, and to the terror of the old we were at our journey's end.
fisherman and his sons, to whom I When this happens to you in Bos- had sent a note, which they could not ton, and you leave your car, you find read, our boat was towed up to the city yourself huddled on a steep sloping quay, and was put under repairs. That sidewalk, under the rain or snow, with last thump on the hidden rock was her a hundred or more other passengers, worst injury, and it was a week beall eager, all wondering, all unprovided fore I could get away. It was in this for. But I found in Sybaris a large time that I got the information I am glass-roofed station, from which the now to give, partly from my own obother lines of neighborhood cars radi- servations, partly from what George ated, in which women and even little the Proxenus or his brother Philip told children were passing from route to me, — more from what I got from a to route, under the guidance of civil very pleasing person, the wife of anand intelligent persons, who, strange other brother, at whose house I used enough, made it their business to con- to visit freely, and whose boys, fine felduct these people to and fro, and did lows, were very fond of talking about not consider it their duty to insult the America with me. They spoke Eng. traveller. For a moment my mind re- lish very funnily, and like little schoolverted to the contrast at home ; but books. The ship-carpenter, a man not long. As I stood admiring and named Alexander, was a very intelliamused at once, a bright, brisk little gent person ; and, indeed, the whole fellow stepped up to me, and asked social arrangement of the place was so what my purpose was, and which way simple, that it seemed to me that I got I would go. He spoke in Greek first, on very fast, and knew a great deal of but, seeing I did not catch his meaning, them in a very short time. relapsed into very passable Italian, I told George one day, that I was quite as good as mine.
surprised that he had so much time to I told him that I was shipwrecked, give to me. He laughed, and said he and had come into town for assistance. could well believe that, as I had said He expressed sympathy, but wasted that I was brought up in Boston. not a moment, led me to his chief at an “When I was there,” said le, “ I otnce on one side, who gave me a card could see that your people were all hoswith the address of an officer whose pitable enough, but that the people duty it was to see to strangers, and who were good for anything were made said that he would in turn introduce to do all the work of the vauriens, me to the chief of the boat-builders; and really had no time for friendship and then said, as if in apology for his or hospitality. I remember an histopromptness,
rian of yours, who crossed with me, * Xpi Feivor Tapeóvta olleiv, OAOVTA & TÉMTTELV," said that there should be a motto * Welcome the coming, speed the parting guest.” stretched across Boston Bay, from one
He called to me a conductor of the fort to another, with the words, “No red line, said Eévos, which we translate admittance, except on business." guest, but which I found in this case I did not more than half like this means “dead-head," or “free," bowed, chaffing of Boston, and asked how and I saw him no more.
they managed things in Sybaris. "Strange country have I come to, in- “Why, you see,” said he, "we hold deed," said I, as I thought of the pass pretty stiffly to the old Charondian ports of Civita Vecchia, of the indiffer- laws, of which perhaps you know someence of Scollay's Buildings, and of the thing; here's a copy of the code, if you surliness of Springfield. “And this is would like to look over it," and he took Sybaris ! "
one out of his pocket. “We are still very chary about amendments to stat- large, not extending much beyond the utes, so that very little time is spent in compass of a large private house. legislation ; we have no bills at shops, Mine was kept by a woman. As we and but little debt, and that is all on sat there, smoking on the piazza, the honor, so that there is not much ac- first evening I was there, I asked George count-keeping or litigation ; you know about this horse-railroad management, what happens to gossips, - gossip and the methods they took to secure takes a good deal of time elsewhere, such personal comfort. - and somehow everybody does his He said that my question cut pretty share of work, so that all of us do have low down, for that the answer really a good deal of what you call “leisure.' involved the study of their whole sysWhether," he added pensively, “in a tem. “I have thought of it a good world God put us into that we might deal,” said he, “when I have been in love each other, and learn to love, - St. Petersburg, and in England and whether the time we spend in society, America ; and as far as I can find out, or the time we spend caged behind our our peculiarity in everything is, that we office desks, is the time which should respect-- I have sometimes thought we be called devoted to the business of almost worshipped - the rights, even life,' that remains to be seen."
the notions or whims, of the individual “How came you to Boston," said I, citizen. With us the first object of the « and when ?"
state, as an organization, is to care for “O, we all have to travel,” said the individual citizen, be he man, woGeorge, “if we mean to go into the ad- man, or child. We consider the state ministration. And I liked administra- to be made for the better and higher tion. I observe that you appoint a for- training of men, much as your divines eign ambassador because he can make say that the Church is. Instead of a good stump speech in Kentucky. But our lumping our citizens, therefore, and since Charondas's time, training has treating Jenny Lind and Tom Heenan to been at the bottom of our system. And the same dose of public schooling, no man could offer himself here to serve instead of saying that what is sauce for on the school committee, unless he the goose is sauce for the gander, - we knew how other nations managed their try to see that each individual is proschools."
tected in the enjoyment, not of what the “Not if he had himself made school majority likes, but of what he chooses, books?” said I.
so long as his choice injures no other “No!”laughed George, “for he might man.” introduce them. With us no profes- I thought, in one whiff, of Stuart sor may teach from a text-book he has Mill, and of the coppersmiths. made himself, unless the highest coun- “Our horse-railroad system grew out cil of education order it; and on the of this theory," continued he. “As same principle we should never choose long ago as Herodotus, people lived a bookseller on the school committee. here in houses one story high, with And so, to go back," he said, “when these gardens between. But some genmy father found that administration was erations ago, a young fellow named Apolmy passion, he sent me the grand tour. lidorus, who had been to Edinburgh, I learned a great deal in America, and pulled down his father's house and built am very fond of the Americans. But a block of what you call houses on the I never saw one here before.”
site of it. They were five stories high, I did not ask what he learned in bad basements, and so on, with windows America, for I was more anxious to fore and aft, and, of course, none on the learn myself how they administered sides. The old fogies looked aghast. government in Sybaris.
But he found plenty of fools to hire
them. But the tenants had not been THE INNS at Sybaris are not very in a week, when the Kategoros, district attorney, had him up for taking away “with us, if a conductor sprains the from a citizen what he could not re- ankle of a citizen, it is a matter the store.' This, you must know, is one state looks after. With you, the citizen of the severest charges in our criminal must himself be the prosecutor, and code.
virtually never is. Did you notice a **Of course, it was easy enough to pretty winged Mercury outside the stashow that the tenants went willingly; he tion-house you came to?" showed dumb-waiters, and I know not I had noticed it. what infernal contrivances of conven- “That was put up, I don't know how ience within. But he could not show long ago, in the infancy of these things. that the tenants had north windows and They took a car off one night, without south windows, because they did not public notice beforehand. One old The government, on their side, showed man was coming in on it, to his daughthat men were made to breathe fresh ter's wedding. He missed his connecair, and that he could not ventilate his tion out at Little Krastis, and lost half houses as if they were open on all sides; an hour. Down came the Kategoros. they showed that women were not made The company had taken from a citizen to climb up and down ladders, and to what they could not restore, namely, live on stages at the tops of them; and half an hour.” be tried in vain to persuade the jury that George lighted another cigar, and this climbing was good for little chil- laughed very heartily. “ That's a great dren. He had lured these citizens into case in our reports," he said. “The places dangerous for health, growth, company ventured to go to trial on it. strength, and comfort. And so he was They hoped they might overturn the compelled to erect a statue typical of old decisions, which were so old that strength, and a small hospital for in- nobody knows when they were made, fants, as his penalty. That spirited as old as the dancing horses,” said he, Hercules, which stands in front of the laughing. “ They said time was not market, was a part of his fine.
a thing, – it was a relation of ideas; “Of course, after a decision like this, that it did not exist in heaven; that concentration of inhabitants was out of they could not be made to suffer bethe question. Every pulpit in Sybaris cause they did not deliver back what blazed with sermons on the text, 'Ev- no man ever saw, or touched, or tasted. ery man shall sit under his vine and un- What was half an hour ? But the jury der his fig-tree.' Everybody saw that a was pitiless. A lot of business men, house without its own garden was an you know, - they knew the value of abomination, and easy communication time. What did they care for the with the suburbs was a necessity. metaphysics ? And the company was
" It was, indeed, easy enough to showbidden to put up an appropriate statue as the city engineer did, that the power worth ten talents in front of their stawasted in lifting people up, and, for that tion-house, as a reminder to all their matter, down stairs, in a five-story house, people that a citizen's time was worth in one day, would carry all those people something." I do not know how many miles on a This was George's first visit to level railroad track in less time. What me; and it was the first time, thereyou call horse-railroads, therefore, be- fore, that I observed. a queer thing. came a necessity.”
Just at this point he rose rather sudI said they made a great row with us. denly and bade me good evening. I
“Yes," said he, “I saw they did begged him to stay, but had to repeat With us the government owns and re- my invitation twice. His hand was on pairs the track, as you do the track of the handle of the door before he turned any common road. We never have any back. Then he sat down, and we
went on talking ; but before long he did "You see,” he added after a pause, the same thing again, and then again.
At last I was provoked, and said: stuffed, dry, and always the morning “ What is the custom of your coun- and evening papers, and an advertisetry? Do you have to take a walk ment of the times of boats and trains, every eleven minutes and a quar- for any one who might be waiting for ter?”
a car or for a friend. Sometimes these George laughed again, and indeed were votive offerings, where public spirblushed. “Do you know what a bore it had spoken in gratitude. More often is?” said he.
they had been ordered at the cost of “ Alas! I do,” said I.
some one who had taken from a citizen “ Well," said he, “the universal cus- what he could not repay. The private tom here is, that an uninvited guest, citizen might often hesitate about proswho calls on another man on his own ecuting a bore, or a nuisance, or a conbusiness, rises at the end of eleven ceited company officer. But the Kateminutes, and offers to go. And the goroi made no bones about it. They courts have ruled, very firmly, that there called the citizen as a witness, and gave must be a bona fide effort. We get into the criminal a reminder which posterity such a habit of it, that, with you, I held in awe. Their point, as they alreally did it unawares. The custom is ways explained it to me, is, that the citas old as Cleisthenes and his wedding. izen's health and strength are essential But some of the decisions are not more to the state. The state cannot afford to than two or three centuries old, and have him maimed, any more than it can they are very funny.
afford to have him drunk or ignorant. “On the whole," he added, “I think The individual, of course, cannot be it works well. Of course, between following up his separate grievances friends, it is absurd, but it is a great with people who abridge his rights. protection against a class of people who But the public accuser can and does. think their own concerns are the only With us, public servants, who know things of value. You see you have they are public servants, are always only to say, when a man comes in, that obliging and civil. I would not ask you thank him for coming, that you better treatment in my own home than wish he would stay, or to take his I am sure of in Capitol, State-house, or hat or his stick, - you have only to city hall. It is only when you get to make him an invited guest, — and then some miserable sub-bureau, where the the rule does not hold.”
servant of the servant of a creature of « Ah !" said I ; "then I invite you to the state can bully you, that you come spend every evening with me while I to grief. For instance the State of am here."
Massachusetts just now forbids corpo“ Take care," said he ; "the Gov. rations to work children more than ten ernment Almanac is printed and dis- hours a day.. The corporations obey. tributed gratuitously from the fines on But the overseers in the rooms, whom bores. Their funds are getting very the corporations employ, work children low up at the department, and they eleven hours, or as many as they will be very sharp on your friends. So choose. They would not stand that in you need not be profuse in your invita- Sybaris. tions."
I was walking one day with one of This conversation was a clew to a the bright boys of whom I spoke, and good many things which I saw while I I asked him, as I had his father, if I was in the city. I never was in a place was not keeping him away from his where there were so many tasteful, pretty regular occupation. Ought he not be little conveniences for everybody. At at school ? the quadrants, where the streets cross, “No," said he ; “this is my offthere was always a pretty little sheltered term.” seat for four or five people, - shaded, “ Pray, what is that?"